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it boils down to personal preference

the ta31 has a wider field of view and is smaller

however sucks for eye relief

The TA11 having the extra relief also gives more space for a rear BUIS
 
it boils down to personal preference

the ta31 has a wider field of view and is smaller

however sucks for eye relief


The TA11 having the extra relief also gives more space for a rear BUIS


I'm leaning towards the ta11 just for the eye relief, just easier to use in awkward positions
 
most of us can't even afford one . so make sure you make the right choice the first time or buy used then you can afford to sale it if you don't like it to get the other.

I can't really afford it either, I'm selling another gun I don't shoot for the purchase, I would like to try them all out for a day, but down here no one has any that I could try, I'm gonna go to Portland on Sunday and I might stop by cabelas and see if they have anything
 
I have the TA11H-G I really like it alot. Its currently zero'd at 400 yards, for the 400 yard hashmark. ranges out to 1,000 yards for .223,,and the reticle is clear and clean, fast on target at 10 yards , when you throw it up to your eye" its a 3.5 power".. the only bad thing about it, is at night, the tube on top lights up like a green neon sign due to the tritium horseshoe.
Nothing a piece of tape could not fix for night shooting. Bought this to replace an eotech 512.. cause i dont like depending on something that will not work without batteries, and my eotech has no real ranging.
 
My NSN01 has terrible eye relief like the TA11 but it barely matters for 5.56. Just nose up to the charging handle like iron sights.

Also I prefer the chevron over the horseshoe or the donut. Zero at 100, then bracket the silhouette at 200 yards with the edges. 300 yards plus you use the BDC. One of mine is red, the other is amber.
 
I have one, Like it alot as well. I don't recall what model it was though. I did get a La Rue mount for it so I could pop it off if needed. I. have only zeroed it at 100 yards then never used it again as it seemed 5.56 went from 300$ a case to 800$ a case
 
My NSN01 has terrible eye relief like the TA11 but it barely matters for 5.56. Just nose up to the charging handle like iron sights.

Also I prefer the chevron over the horseshoe or the donut. Zero at 100, then bracket the silhouette at 200 yards with the edges. 300 yards plus you use the BDC. One of mine is red, the other is amber.
I was told that the ta11 was one of the better ones for eye relief
 
Do you guys use the bac method when you shoot, I want to find out all the info I can before I make such a big purchase
LOL, bac?..( blood alcohol content?).. not sure what bac is....I must be old.... the TA11 is ranged- center dot is 100 yards, bottom of horseshoe is 300 yards- 400 yards is marked with a 4- 500 yards marked with a hash mark- 600 yards is marked with a 6- 700 yards is marked with a hash-800 yards is marked with an 8- 900 yards is marked with a hash mark- 1000 yards is marked with a 10.. it has has horizontal hash marks for ranging find an object with approx. 24 inches, It fits in the ranging marks,(width of an average human target shoulder to shoulder) gives you your approx. range.
I cant find a pic of mine, but it has a center dot and is surrounded by a upside down horseshoe
called a double horseshoe?

edit, here is a pic of the TA11H-G reticle, well at least the one i use..
http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...3C%2Fb%3E-%3Cb%3EG+%3C%2Fb%3EACOG+3.5x35+Scop
 
Also I prefer the chevron over the horseshoe or the donut. Zero at 100, then bracket the silhouette at 200 yards with the edges. 300 yards plus you use the BDC. One of mine is red, the other is amber.


You should zero at 300 meters. The bottom points of that chevron are the average width of a mans shoulders at that distance, so it makes a nice ranging feature. Then at 100 meters you put the very top point of the chevron and you're good to go.

That is the scope I prefer as well though.
 
You should zero at 300 meters. The bottom points of that chevron are the average width of a mans shoulders at that distance, so it makes a nice ranging feature. Then at 100 meters you put the very top point of the chevron and you're good to go.

That is the scope I prefer as well though.

Manual says zero at 100 meters with the tip of the chevron. Also I zero my AR's with surplus 5.56, they don't group well enough at 300 yards to give me confidence in the zero.
 
Problem with tritium for a scope is it eventually fades and requires factory repair. With the ever increasing battery life tech I am sticking with illuminated optics

I zero all modern high power centerfires 2 inches high at 100 yards
 
Manual says zero at 100 meters with the tip of the chevron. Also I zero my AR's with surplus 5.56, they don't group well enough at 300 yards to give me confidence in the zero.

Just giving you the inside scoop...The dot in the center of the chevron is 300m...So yeah, the tip of the chevron would be 100m. I always shot 39/40 or 40/40 with that ammo, and it got REALLY easy once we got to do it with the ACOG.

It's really easy to use a 25 meter zero target, and it's dead nuts on out to 300.
 
Just giving you the inside scoop...The dot in the center of the chevron is 300m...So yeah, the tip of the chevron would be 100m. I always shot 39/40 or 40/40 with that ammo, and it got REALLY easy once we got to do it with the ACOG.

It's really easy to use a 25 meter zero target, and it's dead nuts on out to 300.
I was planning to use the 25m sight in
 

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