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ANYONE TRIED RELOADING FN 5.7 X 28?

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by Denwhit, Feb 5, 2013.

  1. Denwhit

    Denwhit Salem, Or Active Member

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    Factory ammo is so expensive, I'm wavering to even buy this gun. If I own I like to shoot it a lot to become very familiar enough to carry and count on it.
     
  2. rgold1963

    rgold1963 Washington State Active Member

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    I have been thinking about it. Just getting back into reloading this month and am now set up for the 4 other calibers I shoot. Still trying to decide on the 5.7X28 since it's a bit more complicated(meaning buying more equipment) than what I am currently set up for. Dillon will not support it so it will require a second press and then finding the right dies and shell holders, etc. Mixed reviews on the different dies available and on how many times it can be reloaded safely. I have primers, projectiles, and powder that will work so that part is easy. The cases are coated and you have to be careful cleaning and sizing them so it doesn't get scratched off. Trimming might also be an issue. All that said, with the current cost and availability of commercial ammunition, I might just have to make the leap. If I could get a shell plate for the Dillon, I wouldn't think twice about it but the one person that was working on it gave up I believe.
    Federal did finally start producing one type but I have not tried any of it or even seen it for that matter. I do know that what I bought of the FN stuff a couple of years ago has gone up in value a LOT more than my retirement fund!

    I have both the pistol and upper receiver and both are amazingly accurate and fun to shoot. The biggest problem with the AR-57 is that you can empty that 50 rd magazine so fast and at todays prices, it takes a little of the fun out of it.

    Ron
     
  3. ripcity

    ripcity Milwaukie Active Member

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    I've been reloading for the 5.7 for a while now. From everything I have read the Lee dies work the best. If you want a shell plate for a Dillon press then EA ammunition is the place to buy it from. I would attempt to talk you out of reloading this cartridge with a progressive press. To many things to watch for. I weigh almost every load, and I measure every oal. The pressure is so high already a little short could be really bad. I load it on a turret press. The cases should be washed with a simple green solution. I trim all my cases. It's time consuming, but a 1k rounds cost me 175. Much cheaper than factory prices. Fiveseven forum has a lot more information. If you have any other questions I will try to answer them.
     
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  4. Denwhit

    Denwhit Salem, Or Active Member

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    Thanks for those responses.
     
  5. deadshot2

    deadshot2 NW Quadrant WA State Well-Known Member

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    Back a couple of years ago there was an extensive discussion on reloading for the 5.7X28 (forum now gone).

    One of the major issues is to make sure the cases are properly sized. The case is a "bottle-necked" case with a sharp shoulder angle. Failure to properly reset the shoulder position can lead to issues with the slide not fully going into battery, leading to an out of battery discharge, given the proper conditions. This almost always leads to the bullet going one way and pieces of the firearm going another.

    Yes, like ripcity said, you have lots to pay attention to and progressive presses aren't for this round.

    Definitely have a case gauge in your tool kit if you load this round and check every round.
     
  6. ripcity

    ripcity Milwaukie Active Member

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    Yes the case gauge is a must. EA ammunition sells them also. Also, I use various case lubes, but one shot works best with this load. When I use other lubes the shoulder does not set back to factory spec. The one shot has less friction?
     
  7. Oregonhunter5

    Oregonhunter5 2C IDAHO Well-Known Member

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    I hear these guns run, and then don't run. My brothers had issue with his. I hear also that the patent? FN has on this ammo is about up.
    Hope that helps.
     
  8. Denwhit

    Denwhit Salem, Or Active Member

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    Great discussion. Thanks.
     
  9. deadshot2

    deadshot2 NW Quadrant WA State Well-Known Member

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    Another good step to take with this case is to anneal each and every one before loading. It's not hard and can be done without expensive equipment.

    A socket wrench that allows the case body to slide in so that only the shoulder and about 1/4" below is exposed (fill excess socket with a machine screw nut two to make it sit out far enough if necessary.

    A small Bernz Torch (I use a mini for my annealing).

    A cordless drill to turn the socket (or cordless screwdriver).

    A "Tempilstik" heat crayon. They can be purchased for under $10 from a Welding Supply store. I use the 750 Degree on.


    Spin the case with the flame directed at the shoulder area. Frequently checks (every couple of seconds) by removing case and immediately touch the area heated with the crayon. If it's almost to 750 degrees it will smear a little. If it's just over 750 degrees it will melt like a crayola on a stove burner.

    When you judge the number of seconds necessary to reach the just starting to melt temp, not the time and color of the brass.

    Repeat until you have determined the amount of "flame time". My .308 cases will take 6 seconds in my mini-torch flame as an example to reach the desired temp.

    You aren't really annealing in the traditional sense as much as your stress relieving and this will make for not only easier sizing but longer case life as well.

    No need to quench the cases in water as brass doesn't benefit from this. Also, the case starts cooling immediately after removed from the flame as the heated portion doesn't have sufficient mass to retain heat that would damage the rest of the case. Quenching in water will just give you a wet case. Give then 10-15 minutes and they'll be more than cool enough to handle bare-handed.
     
  10. ripcity

    ripcity Milwaukie Active Member

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    I've never had any issues with mine not running.
     
  11. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    The thing with the 5.7 is all the guns that fire this round (except the single shots) are direct blow-back. Since this is a bottle neck cartridge if you look at a fired 5.7 and a new one you will notice the shoulder is blown forward by about .050" or more. This means resetting the case shoulder is a must, which will be very hard on the brass (require a lot of cold work). Annealing will be a critical to case life, you will probably also have to trim the cases and you're probably going to get <5 reloads out of each case.
     
  12. mattdomes

    mattdomes Newberg Active Member

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    I just say Federal 5.7x28 for $20/box of 50 at Fishermans Marine in Beaverton...
     
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  13. renner22

    renner22 Bellevue New Member

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  14. ripcity

    ripcity Milwaukie Active Member

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    I think the time consuming and maybe one could say a little bit of a challenge, but I don't consider time consuming being a challenge, it's just time consuming is what draws me to this cartridge. And the fact that you have 30 rounds out of a pistol that pushes a 40gr. projectile close to 2000fps. Oh yeah, the cost savings are way up on my list as well. When I'm out shooting the 5.7, how many rounds I've shot never creeps into my head, I just shoot til I'm ready to go home. It' so fast to load 9mm, .223, and .45, without the 5.7x28 I would never be in my garage reloading. I can't wait to prep some brass tomorrow. Like I've said in other posts, I like reloading as much as I like to shoot. By the way does anyone have any brass at a good price out there?:huh:
     
  15. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    Once I start sorting the drums and drums of brass I have here (hopefully going to have one of my employees working on it this week) I'll let you have it for $2/lb :) or if you want to trade (wt for wt) with 9mm/45/223.
     
  16. Denwhit

    Denwhit Salem, Or Active Member

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    Thanks for that post.