Anybody here have experience with fixing broken wood stocks?

[ilikegunspdx]

I have an older double barrel shotgun that UPS dropped and broke the stock and before attempting to fix it I was wondering if anyone here has experience repairing wood stocks?

I haven't been able to find a replacement stock so I thought I would try to repair it myself to "shootable and ok looking condition". The gun is not high value so that kind of eliminates taking it to a professional I think.

Mainly I'm just looking for advice on general techniques as I haven't attempted this before (have refinished stocks but not repaired broken ones). Please let me know if you have any knowledge in this area. Thx!

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[RVTECH]

Can you post a pic of the breakage?

Repair Techniques will vary based on the actual problem.

 

[po18guy]

As I recall, it was rather catastrophic damage. Here is a fellow in Eastern Washington that specializes in high-end shotguns.

Stockmaker Gunstock Repair, broken gunstock repair service

StockMaker, Specializing in gunstock repair and gunstock refinishing gunstock crack repair, broken gunstock service

www.gunstockmaker.com

 

[NW Backpacker]

Any time I want to fix something, I watch a YouTube video first:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fixing+wooden+stock+on+shotgun

Type in a specific description and see if you get better results. Good luck!

 

[po18guy]

Am emailing him regarding sharpening the checkering and applying finish to some '59 Colt Frontier Scout stocks I have.

 

[JuglansRegia]

There are broken stocks and then there are broken stocks. If its oil soaked before you do anything you'll want to leach it out with acetone or some other kind of solvent. Then I like to use CA (cyanoacrylate) a lot of people use Gorilla Glue which is an acrylic glue, moisture catalyzing. The problem I have with the Gorilla Glue is that it foams and expands when it sets up so if you have anything but a hairline crack it will show up as a white line, plus I don't think its nearly as strong as a nice thick CA, but none of it will matter if you have oil soaked wood.

 

[Wood Worker]

If you have all the pieces you can use a stainable epoxy on wood, just fit your puzzle together a few times before getting started and, wear disposable gloves and watch for squeeze out.
You can even use masking tape to hold parts tight seeing as how you will have to orbital the excess off before finish sanding and staining.

 

[Capn Jack]

Really a how high is up question without pictures. If it's a complete fracture, doweling and gluing would be my course. If it's cracked, there are other alternatives.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Can you post a pic of the breakage?

Repair Techniques will vary based on the actual problem.

Here are some pics. That top chunk is broken off.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

As I recall, it was rather catastrophic damage. Here is a fellow in Eastern Washington that specializes in high-end shotguns.

Stockmaker Gunstock Repair, broken gunstock repair service

StockMaker, Specializing in gunstock repair and gunstock refinishing gunstock crack repair, broken gunstock service

www.gunstockmaker.com

Wow that guy does some nice work! I think I'll email him just to see what it might cost for repair. Thx!

 

[ilikegunspdx]

There are broken stocks and then there are broken stocks. If its oil soaked before you do anything you'll want to leach it out with acetone or some other kind of solvent. Then I like to use CA (cyanoacrylate) a lot of people use Gorilla Glue which is an acrylic glue, moisture catalyzing. The problem I have with the Gorilla Glue is that it foams and expands when it sets up so if you have anything but a hairline crack it will show up as a white line, plus I don't think its nearly as strong as a nice thick CA, but none of it will matter if you have oil soaked wood.

Good to know. The break itself doesn't show oil at all but there is oil where the metal meets the wood inside the "box lock" (not sure that is the proper term, it's a greener cross bolt gun).

Re glue I was talking to an experienced finish carpenter one time and he said he used polyurethane wood glue. He said you can only buy it at Parr lumber. Can't remember the name though. Just something I heard, I have never used it. Good to know about the cyanoacrylate, I'll have to look into that one. Thanks!

 

[po18guy]

Not all that far away up the Columbia - basically Kennewick. For all the shipping hassle, you could just hand carry it.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Re Glue, what about acraglass? I saw it on a stock restoration video. Is that a glue or more of just a filler? I don't know anything about it.

 

[JuglansRegia]

Here are some pics. That top chunk is broken off.View attachment 844307View attachment 844308

It was stained so that will be a problem if you have to do any sanding. It looks dry though. If you glue it right with CA, it won't break in the same place again. I have a real thin CA extenede cure to prime it then l have a thick one that spreads out. Then l use a small diameter rope and wrap it around real tight to draw the piece together. Your break is in a flat spot you might even be able to use some c clamps with some cedar shims.

 

[P7M13]

My experience fixing wood under strain is strictly related to boats.
Your stock broke along the grain. Looks like the trigger guard screw was the initial offense to the wood and it was just a matter of time.
Because the breakage is along the lines of force of recoil, the possibility of repeat failure is not negligible.
I would

1. Use an outstanding glue and
2. Reinforce the glue joint with some hardwood dowels through the stock, introducing a higher shear strength to the recoil. 1/4" - 3/8" Hickory or Oak would do.

For glues, only two I would trust:

• West System epoxy (found at West Marine stores, Fisherman's warehouse, etc). Expensive and worth it.
• Elmer's wood epoxy (if the stuff below is the same as what I used to use) Was pink years ago, now white?
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E761L-E761Q-Repair-System/dp/B000GUDAVA

Repairing:
Both of those glues, when clamping the piece, scrape off any excess, because both of them dry really friggin' hard!
After repair, I would completely strip the stock and Tung Oil it. In my experience, Claro Walnut is pretty soft, though tough. Problem is, if you use a reinforcement dowel like I mentioned above, Oak or Hickory won't sand out like the walnut, and if you're not careful, you'll get high spots/low spots around the dowels.
Unless you are deeply experienced at laying up shapes, do not use fiberglass on the outside, it will be FUGLY.