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Ordered an AAC 7.62 SDN-6 silencer and the standard socket AAC flash hider for my 16.1" bbl Ruger Gunsite.

AAC said that only their standard socket flash hider will work with the scout rifle due to its unique barrel shoulder/fsb combo.

I'm going to install the AAC flash hider tomorrow but the silencer won't be seen for at least 6 months from now.

Anybody here have a Ruger GSR that's been successfully suppressed?

Pics are welcome. Thank you!

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AAC uses a different yet similar mounting system than our silencerco cans @SKrueger infact, some silencerco mounts will take the AAC 51t mount.

i think if this guy wants to put the 51T flash hider on this particular gun it would HAVE to be the standard socket one due to the fact that the regular aac flash hider(i own one) has a hood over the bottom of the threads and would not fit true to the barrel with that FSB attached to the gun. that being said, the standard socket one will square up to the FSB just fine and shims will have to be used to achieve a proper fit due to the fact that the standard socket has .620” of threads vs the deep socket that has up to .750” of threads to prevent the flash hider from bottoming out on the muzzle(there are brakes designed to be true to the muzzle but i dont think this is one of them)

however, i 100000000000% would wanna know how square that FSB is on the other side that squares up to the barrel shoulder. hopefully the machining is done right and both sides of the FSB are true.

personally, after installing the stardard socket flash hider i would buy a rod in which purpose is to fit snug down the barrel bore and protrude thru the flash hider to see how concentric that flash hider is with the bore. after verifying that, i would re verify this once the suppressor is in hand and can be instaled and checked with the “bore rod”

you dont want a baffle strike on a can you paid $$$ and waited 6-9months to get.
 
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Thanks for the insight @v0lcom13sn0w

When I spoke with AAC they assured me that no shims would be needed with their standard socket flash hider for the scout rifle. My flash hider comes in today so i will find out if the muzzle device bottoms on the muzzle face. I'll order a pack of the AAC shims just in case.

Do you recommend any "barrel rods" to use for a .308 to check the concentricity of the flash hider/bore?

Edit* I found this Geissle Suppressor Rod on Midway but so darn pricey!

Geissele Suppressor Alignment Rod 17 7.62 - MPN: 10-260

But I did some researchand found some Master-Carr tool steel round rods that may fit as alignment rods.

McMaster-Carr

For .308/300BLK:
8893K219

For 5.56/.223
8893K193
 
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Thanks for the insight @v0lcom13sn0w

When I spoke with AAC they assured me that no shims would be needed with their standard socket flash hider for the scout rifle. My flash hider comes in today so i will find out if the muzzle device bottoms on the muzzle face. I'll order a pack of the AAC shims just in case.

Do you recommend any "barrel rods" to use for a .308 to check the concentricity of the flash hider/bore?

Edit* I found this Giessle Suppressor Rod on Midway but so darn pricey!

Geissele Suppressor Alignment Rod 17 7.62 - MPN: 10-260

But I did some researchand found some Master-Carr tool steel round rods that may fit as alignment rods.

McMaster-Carr

For .308/300BLK:
8893K219

For 5.56/.223
8893K193
TBH i eye ball it through the can... my can is a hybrid 46 so theres a little bit of leeway. LOL. but, i cant consciously just throw bad advice out there. i want you to do it right and feel confident with that first shot through it.

i think either of those rods will work. yea the geissele rod is expensive... but not as expensive as your can. ive just come to terms that when you get into NFA that its just gonna be expensive LOL.

i just had a thought, if you can get one of those laser bore sighters that look like a round of ammo and goes in your chamber and then put a clear/opaque piece of tape over the exit of your can and see if the beam is right in the center. the beam is not gonna be .308 in diameter most likely but you could atleast see if the beam exits the center of the suppressors end cap.

the rod i would believe to be the most accurate sure shot way of determining.
 
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Installed the AAC flash hider using their tool. Torqued the device to a minimum of 45ft/lbs with Rocksett (AAC recommends 45-55ft/lbs for their 5/8x24 muzzle devices according to the package).

Looked through the bore at various angles and looks concentric to me. No sight of any canting from what I can see. Will be visiting a buddy soon to test mount his SDN6. When I get those McMaster-Carr alignment rods I'll post some updates.

Thanks again.


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jbett98

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You might want to index one of the flash hiders prongs straight below the front sight.
Because if you shoot the rifle near the ground without the suppressor you might kick up a bunch of dust, plus, having the open slot on top helps with muzzle rise and the way it's set right now, it might move the muzzle off center when firing.

I removed all of my AAC three prong flash hiders and swapped them out for AAC muzzle brakes.
I learned that a muzzle brake will help reduce internal baffle erosion inside the first couple of inches by directing the hot gases sideways instead of directly into the first set of baffles.
 
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You might want to index one of the flash hiders prongs straight below the front sight.
Because if you shoot the rifle near the ground without the suppressor you might kick up a bunch of dust, plus, having the open slot on top helps with muzzle rise and the way it's set right now, it might move the muzzle off center when firing.

I removed all of my AAC three prong flash hiders and swapped them out for AAC muzzle brakes.
I learned that a muzzle brake will help reduce internal baffle erosion inside the first couple ofinches by directing the hot gases sideways instead of directly into the first set of baffles.
yup, brakes add a few sacrificial baffles.


with more “baffles” its quieter too :rolleyes::eek::p:rolleyes::):):D:cool::confused:
 
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I have ordered a set of AAC shims just to have in the drawer.

From what I have researched on forums and from a response from AAC. Their Blackout Flash Hider can just be screwed on and torqued to spec without any need to time/index. This is due to the design of their 3-prong FH which does not effect muzzle rise. If anything, getting a prong at the 12 o' clock position might help with the dust signature.

I'll shoot it as is for now and see how well it performs. I can always add a shim in the future if I want a specifically prong oriented.

The McMaster-Carr tool rods shipped and delivery is expected tomorrow. Will update with pics with alignment shots.
 

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