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OK so is THIS Just My Imagination or what? Probably some electrical engineers here, so...

When I was YOUNG and had my first CARS (1970's) you could always tell in advance when your Battery was reaching end-of-life, because your engine would start to crank over slower and slower.

Nowadays, it seems to be one day its FINE, then the next morning its DEAD.

I have observed this pattern on two late model Toyota's.

No Warning.

Just a good thing I have a jump power supply to get it going again.

Thoughts?
 
OK so is THIS Just My Imagination or what? Probably some electrical engineers here, so...

When I was YOUNG and had my first CARS (1970's) you could always tell in advance when your Battery was reaching end-of-life, because your engine would start to crank over slower and slower.

Nowadays, it seems to be one day its FINE, then the next morning its DEAD.

I have observed this pattern on two late model Toyota's.

No Warning.

Just a good thing I have a jump power supply to get it going again.

Thoughts?
That is because they use the same technology as printer cartridges to make the them unusable after a pre-determined time. ;) :s0140:
 
OK so is THIS Just My Imagination or what? Probably some electrical engineers here, so...

When I was YOUNG and had my first CARS (1970's) you could always tell in advance when your Battery was reaching end-of-life, because your engine would start to crank over slower and slower.

Nowadays, it seems to be one day its FINE, then the next morning its DEAD.

I have observed this pattern on two late model Toyota's.

No Warning.

Just a good thing I have a jump power supply to get it going again.

Thoughts?
Old cars had literally no current draw on the battery when they were off. These days there's a surprising amount of circuitry constantly attached to the battery and always on (alarm system, ECU, keyless entry, etc.). Not a lot of current but they are connected. I'm guessing that constant small amount of drain over the years causes a quicker decline in the battery's performance. Not so much the actual current draw, because it is recharged when running, but the constant use of the battery over its life as compared to connect, disconnect, connect, etc. with old cars.
 
Old cars had literally no current draw on the battery when they were off. These days there's a surprising amount of circuitry constantly attached to the battery and always on (alarm system, ECU, keyless entry, etc.). Not a lot of current but they are connected. I'm guessing that constant small amount of drain over the years causes a quicker decline in the battery's performance. Not so much the actual current draw, because it is recharged when running, but the constant use of the battery over its life as compared to connect, disconnect, connect, etc. with old cars.
That makes me wonder if a Marine/RV battery might be a better option. Especially for a modern car that sits a lot.

I have battery maintainers that I hook up to vehicles that sit over the Winter for this reason. The batteries last much longer if you do this.
 
That makes me wonder if a Marine/RV battery might be a better option. Especially for a modern car that sits a lot.

I have battery maintainers that I hook up to vehicles that sit over the Winter for this reason. The batteries last much longer if you do this.
Marine/RV batteries don't have the CCA to actually start an engine repeatedly and reliably.
 
Marine/RV batteries don't have the CCA to actually start an engine repeatedly and reliably.
I was under the impression that Marine/RV batteries were built sturdier to withstand the pounding that boats and off roaders take. They should have the same cranking power too. A lot of big V-8s in larger boats and accessories to run in rec vehicles? Those applications are why gel and AGM batteries are more appropriate for those uses, being sturdier with no gassing.
 
I was under the impression that Marine/RV batteries were built sturdier to withstand the pounding that boats and off roaders take. They should have the same cranking power too. A lot of big V-8s in larger boats and accessories to run in rec vehicles? Those applications are why gel and AGM batteries are more appropriate for those uses, being sturdier with no gassing.
They don't.. they are designed for "shore power" and trolling motor output, not starting engines.
 
They don't.. they are designed for "shore power" and trolling motor output, not starting engines.
That's a "Cycling" battery. AKA "Deep Cycle". I had both in my boat. Starting battery was an RV/Marine battery. And cycling battery under the helm for the bow mount trolling motor. Tow different animals.
 
OK so is THIS Just My Imagination or what? Probably some electrical engineers here, so...

When I was YOUNG and had my first CARS (1970's) you could always tell in advance when your Battery was reaching end-of-life, because your engine would start to crank over slower and slower.

Nowadays, it seems to be one day its FINE, then the next morning its DEAD.

I have observed this pattern on two late model Toyota's.

No Warning.

Just a good thing I have a jump power supply to get it going again.

Thoughts?
That is what happened to me last month. Everything was completely normal with no signs of the batteries going bad until they were just completely dead. Good thin I was at home when they decided to die rather than out somewhere and get stuck hoping someone eventually comes along!
 
Some of the newer cars with the start/stop feature have two batteries. A smaller sized one just for the starter.
Yep, that's progress for you, (you lose, sorry).
Now, instead of replacing a relatively cheap battery every so often you get to replace an expensive starter that has had to start the car hundreds of times more than necessary.
And the battery has a shorter lifespan too.
It's a win-win for the starter and battery companies.
 
I just replaced the batteries in my push lawn mower for 3 pence and a sheckel at O-O-O-O'reilly...... Auto Parts OW!
 
OK so is THIS Just My Imagination or what? Probably some electrical engineers here, so...

When I was YOUNG and had my first CARS (1970's) you could always tell in advance when your Battery was reaching end-of-life, because your engine would start to crank over slower and slower.

Nowadays, it seems to be one day its FINE, then the next morning its DEAD.
This has been my experience lately, but I cannot offer an explanation for it. This phenomenon has caused me to quit waiting until I get the last nickel's worth of current out of a car battery before I replace it. I now replace them before I get stranded in a parking lot somewhere far from home. Battery number one in my 04 Ford Crown Victoria went that way. It lasted ten years to the month. One day it was cranking fine. The next day, I drove to the gas station and when I went to leave, I turned the ignition key and nothing. The old Fords would give you a chatter when the batt. was too low to turn the engine over. I don't think my two Panther cars have that same set-up. They have solenoids. The old ones had a relay, activated by the ignition switch. When the ig. switch cut in, the relay would close and throw fire to the starter. If there wasn't enough current, the relay contacts would chatter but not close. As I understand it.

My Crown Victoria has 145K miles (bought new), the Merc. Grand Marquis (both same platform) has 91K (bought used at 46K miles), I've never had to address starter issues in either of them. They have a small starter, about half the size of the older Ford types that lack solenoids. Smaller, but last much longer. They have permanent magnets in them, rather than field windings, may make a difference. I'm sure it was done to reduce weight, not necessarily to make them longer lasting.
 
So, update to my battery buying experience. The 04 Crown Victoria battery no. 2 got to ten years. I should've replaced it already, but I haven't been driving this car much lately. Yesterday while I was out on errands, I took this car and stopped at O'Reilly auto parts. The clerk showed me the list of options. Including a battery that cost only $80. But here's the catch, this one only carries a One Month Warranty! I went for the $140 option and he gave me a veteran discount. But this is a common Group 65 battery, maybe more competitive in price than the Hyundai battery in the OP.

This is the first time I've been in O'Reilly's for ages. Cars I drive now just don't break that often. And there is the internet. Usually when I go in, there are few or zero customers and usually one or maybe two employees. Yesterday, there was one guy working there.

I don't get why O'Reilly shares are something like $1,180 last I saw. The stores are empty, cars tend to be built better so people don't have to work on them, and even if they could, technical issues disallow a lot of people from doing so. Then there is the imminent impact of electric vehicles on the market, which contain fewer parts and likely will offer less opportunity for needing stuff from O'Reilly's. And there is the internet. Well, I did my part by buying a battery from them.

I suppose car batteries are sold on the internet. But when I want one, I usually want it right now.
 

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