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i have it soaking in clp now, I'll have to get some better carbon remover soon. I kinda lost track, i did not think it had been that long but the front cap looked pretty bad.
 
Kind of gear dependant but I would throw it in a sonic cleaner if safe to do so. You would ot believe how much of a difference mine has made. I have gotten more frozen parts working again. Suppressors and the bolt to my favorite fun gun when ammo was cheap (someone learned that the mpa defender does not like to charge after a few thousand rounds of suppressed tulammo, I would not use tulammo except I found a 3 cents a round bulk deal a few years back,) a few runs through the sonic cleaner I dried it, oiled it and it was good as new. I had a stuck sig .22 can and after running through it cleaned and helped loosen the threads.
 
Back in the good ol' days when gas was cheap, I'd say a road trip was in order and head over to Wombat's place for some ultrasonic cleaning goodness. Cheaper just to buy your own ultrasonic cleaner and call it a day…..FJB
 
Can you fire a round or two now since it's been soaking in kroil for a bit? I had to do that and the pressure seemed to work the oil in and break it free. Looking back, I'd never buy an aluminum suppressor again.
 
Do NOT throw that in a sonic cleaner, you will eat the finish off it and if it is aluminum, RIP to the can.
Hence my comments about checking materials first for safety. My cans are steel and titanium. I forget people use aluminum to be honest. I do not want to wear out something that required a tax stamp. Apparently the rear cap is aluminum. (Titanium and SS for the rest of it)
 
got any anti-seize? maybe you can put some on the threads when you reassemble it, that bubblegum gets everywhere.
 
Unfortunately it has aluminum baffles and can't go in as ultra sonic cleaner. I did get it after a soak and putting the tool in a vice for some extra
Ruger's product page said they were SS. The end cap would be a problem. I do have to put the tool in a vice for my silencercos routinely. We will not bother discussing the crap tool sig sent out with their .22 can. First time I attempted to use the tool, that plastic piece of garbage sheared.


Another option if the tool was crappy plastic like the sig would be to cast it in brass. I got the cap off on mine and have never cinched it back on. It would be easy enough to sand cast it though
 
+1 for the anti seize compound on the threaded areas when you are reassembling. I also spray the baffles with welding tip anti splatter, and don't feel the need to tighten the threaded ends of a suppressor I'm firing subsonic loads through (such as 22LR) that much. Just snug works for me.

This stuff works good, and is a lot easier to cleanup than the old grey never seize I used prior.
BDE02343-6A1F-4E95-A8C1-4ABEACD388DE.jpeg
 

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