Any recommended mods for s&w M&p 15-22?

[ilikegunspdx]

Picking one of these up for plinking and was wondering what r the common upgrades that most poeple do. Especially looking for weak points in the design (i have not handled it yet).

The only mods I am 100% sure I will do are some sort of folding stock, binary trigger, and suppressor (if it ever gets out of jail that is).

Thanks for any ideas or experience re weak points of the design. Cheers!

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[Rudedog]

I asked this same question a while back. I am very pleased with mine. I had an EO Tech 512 on mine. Will be moving it onto another rifle. I just saw police trade in EO Tech for $169 I think it was. It looks to me like the stock is not made like an AR so a folder won't work. The front hand guard also seems to be a pain to reconfigure. I picked up several new magazines so I hope this rifle will keep on cruising into the future.

 

[Mr Smith]

Triggers are always a good mod.

Folder will not work. These don't have a real buffer tube. The buffer tube is a solid piece of plastic that is a molded part of the lower receiver.

Also these will not click to an AR-15 upper, nor will an AR-15 lower click to the 15-22 upper. different pin spacing distance that was intentionally done by S&w to prevent putting an overpowered upper on it.

The charging handle is another good mod.. Factory one is a piece of plastic and flimsy. I replaced mine with an aluminum charging handle and added an extended CH latch.
Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 Charging Handles
lots of color options there and they can do laser graphics on them as well if you so desire.


Scopes are always good on them. Recommend a ACSS from primary arms for a cheap option but there are plenty out there to choose from.

Factory stock and grip usually sucks on them unless you get a magpul version then both are quite tolerable. but if you get the colt grip and stock on them: I would suggest changing them out, but it's really a personal preference thing I suppose as some like the cheap colt crap. Dealers choice.

Finally a speed loader 'cause if you are putting a binary trigger on there, then we already know you will empty your mags fast and not want to spend all day reloading them.

Speed Loader: Lightnin' Grip Loader

15-22 magazine Adapter: (#1)MP15-22 / Plinker Adapter Only

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Triggers are always a good mod.

Folder will not work. These don't have a real buffer tube. The buffer tube is a solid piece of plastic that is a molded part of the lower receiver.

Also these will not click to an AR-15 upper, nor will an AR-15 lower click to the 15-22 upper. different pin spacing distance that was intentionally done by S&w to prevent putting an overpowered upper on it.

The charging handle is another good mod.. Factory one is a piece of plastic and flimsy. I replaced mine with an aluminum charging handle and added an extended CH latch.
Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 Charging Handles
lots of color options there and they can do laser graphics on them as well if you so desire.

Scopes are always good on them. Recommend a ACSS from primary arms for a cheap option but there are plenty out there to choose from.

Factory stock and grip usually sucks on them unless you get a magpul version then both are quite tolerable. but if you get the colt grip and stock on them: I would suggest changing them out, but it's really a personal preference thing I suppose as some like the cheap colt crap. Dealers choice.

Finally a speed loader 'cause if you are putting a binary trigger on there, then we already know you will empty your mags fast and not want to spend all day reloading them.

Speed Loader: Lightnin' Grip Loader

15-22 magazine Adapter: (#1)MP15-22 / Plinker Adapter Only

Excellent info. Thx!

Actually regarding the folder, lack of Ar buffer tube is a huge positive. I have put a utg floding stock adapter/mil spec buffer tube and Rogers super stock on my m-4 22lr and a sig saur folding adapter in my hk 416 22lr.

Neither of those have a real ar buffer tube and that is what makes it so easy and cheap to do. Utg adapters cost about $12 now at optics planet. Probably can use 15-22 tube and stock as is I would guess but haven't seen it yet. The m-4 stock and tube was commercial spec and horribly cheap nasty plastic (unlike most of the rest of the gun). So that is why I replaced tube and stock on the m-4 clone.

For the sig saur adapter you have to attach a small piece of standard pic rail and the folding adapter attaches to that. Here a couple pics.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Ps I also agree totally about craptastic plastic of the colt grip and stock especially. Btw I found a place that sells the hk416 battle grip for $18. It is a simply fantastic grip. Feels perfect in the hand. The hk 416 clone comes stock with this grip. If u are interested I can dig up the site that sells the 416 battle grip. I highly recommend that grip. Also there is a thread on here that shows more details of how to install the folding stock adapter. I can find that also and paste here if interested. Let me know. Or u can always wait until I actually do it on the 15-22 and then ask for pics/instructions . Thx again for the info.!

Pps, since posting this thread I talked to the binary trigger poeple. They said to purchase the trigger made especially for the 15-22 and that I can use it in future ARs later if I want. Hard to do if buy the AR (non-15-22 version) I assume that's due to the safety but didn't ask.

 

[Mr Smith]

I don't think you're quite understanding on the stock bit...

the "buffer tube" and lower receiver are 1 molded piece. There are no threads, no hole. It doesn't come off. You would need to cut, drill and thread it to put an aftermarket part on...

 

[ilikegunspdx]

I don't think you're quite understanding on the stock bit...

the "buffer tube" and lower receiver are 1 molded piece. There are no threads, no hole. It doesn't come off. You would need to cut, drill and thread it to put an aftermarket part on...

Ok I'll take a look when I get it. I had to cut and drill and install aftermarket part on the other two which was very easy. Consists of only drilling 2 holes in the pic rail on the hk416, but more work on the m4 cuz it had a goofy extension from the receiver into the "buffer tube" which I had to cut off. I still need to put a cosmetic cover on the remaining part of this extension (see pics) just to make it look factory like the hk426 does.

 

[Mr Smith]

Pictures always help.

 

[Mr Smith]

I like magpul and hogue grips myself. Magpul for the ability to store things inside the grip, hogue just cause they're comfortable. my 5.56, 308, and 12ga all have hogue grips on them, as does the 6.5 creedmoor i'm building.

The rest have magpul grips cause they're cheap and I have lube bottles inside the grips.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Those pics help a lot! I assume the "buffer tube" is polymer but what about the back of the receiver? Is the part shown at the red arrow plastic or metal?

If metal, should be pretty easy. If plastic that would be a bit more involved as would have to make a collar with threads that can accept the utg (or similar such as ace or sbtactical) adapter.

 

[308]

First mod you should do is get some KNS anti-rotation trigger pins. The reason is the steel pins will eventually work loose in the plastic receiver and go double tapping or maybe f/a. Note the required pins are longer than standard AR pins.

joeboboutfitters.com has them for a good price.

 

[BSG 75]

Picking one of these up for plinking and was wondering what r the common upgrades that most poeple do. Especially looking for weak points in the design (i have not handled it yet).

It has a polymer lower so there is a possibility of the steel trigger and hammer pins enlarging their holes on the lower ("walking"). There is a kit to prevent that CMC Triggers Anti-Walk Pin Set for M&P 15-22 & all Composite Lowers

I have not installed that kit in my S&W Performance Center M&P 15-22

 

[Mr Smith]

Those pics help a lot! I assume the "buffer tube" is polymer but what about the back of the receiver? Is the part shown at the red arrow plastic or metal?

If metal, should be pretty easy. If plastic that would be a bit more involved as would have to make a collar with threads that can accept the utg (or similar such as ace or sbtactical) adapter.

View attachment 539912

As I said: it is all 1 piece of plastic. no metal other than the plate they embedded with the serial number on it in the lower receiver. (not counting lower parts kit/fire control group)

Just solid plastic. so you would need to cut off the buffer tube, bore out a hole and thread it to fit a normal buffer tube, and then block it off so the action can't move outside of there. It's solid on the back to hold the action in place and allow the bolt to slide back and forth inside it's "carrier"

 

[Mr Smith]

If your pins ever walk it means you probably didn't put them in all the way or have the wrong kind of trigger for the pins. They are "notched" for a reason. There is a small bit of spring wire inside the hammer and the disconnector inside the trigger both catch those notches and ride inside them to prevent the pins from walking out. The only time you need those anti-walk pins is with drop-in triggers like timney or cmmg, etc.

Mil-spec triggers, geissele triggers, and most triggers that aren't encased in a housing don't require anti-walk pins because their design is already anti-walk with the 2 notches in the pins and the parts inside the trigger and hammer that drop into those notches.

 

[308]

Actually, it IS a known problem with the MP15/22 trigger pins even if they are installed correctly...just sayin' as an owner of (2) with several thousand rounds through each

 

[Mr Smith]

I have a geissele SSA-E trigger in mine. over 10,000 rounds through it. never had a pin walk. So if it's walking either the junk trigger they put in is missing the catch points or the catch points on their pins aren't large enough.

Either way that factory trigger is a cheap junk barely mil-spec trigger with about 7lbs pull weight and gritty/creepy. but OP will solve that with his binary trigger so no need to worry.

 

[Cardinal]

I have a first generation one, so not sure if this is an issue with them anymore, but I had FTE problems. I replaced the extractor with a Volquartsen one, and it's been perfect since.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

I like magpul and hogue grips myself. Magpul for the ability to store things inside the grip, hogue just cause they're comfortable. my 5.56, 308, and 12ga all have hogue grips on them, as does the 6.5 creedmoor i'm building.

The rest have magpul grips cause they're cheap and I have lube bottles inside the grips.

Agree those are great grips. Here is the 416 battle grip storage. Very tight locking fit for storage compartment. FYI:

 

[Mr Smith]

I dunno what gen mine is, but i've had it for years. it's got the quad rail on it before mlok was an option. Never had the FTE issue other than with junk ammo. (winchester and remington thunderbolts)

These rifles love CCI and Federal. CCI standard velocity is probably among the best ammo to use with a can on the barrel Nice and quiet. no failures and pretty darn consistent for accuracy!

 

[ilikegunspdx]

As I said: it is all 1 piece of plastic. no metal other than the plate they embedded with the serial number on it in the lower receiver. (not counting lower parts kit/fire control group)

Just solid plastic. so you would need to cut off the buffer tube, bore out a hole and thread it to fit a normal buffer tube, and then block it off so the action can't move outside of there. It's solid on the back to hold the action in place and allow the bolt to slide back and forth inside it's "carrier"

Too bad they use so much plastic. I'll have to measure it after I get it (prob Tuesday or wed). Without having seen it in person, I'm thinking cut existing tube and install metal threaded collar to accept the folding adapter. But depends on diameter. That way no plastic welding required and much stiffer than plastic.