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Any HVAC techs out there??? I have a Q?

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by clearconscience, Sep 6, 2015.

  1. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg My HVAC and water heater exhaust vent runs through my floor and through my spare bedroom closet, into the attic and through the roof. I am moving my daughter into this room from her nursary and the soon to come baby boy is taking her nursary.


    I have two fears:
    1. There may be carbon monoxide leaking through the ducting and into the room,

    2. This ducting gets warm, not sure how hot it gets and don't want this to be a fire hazard.


    I want to enclose it, caulk it and make it airtight, would this be a problem? With it getting warm/hot should I insulate it or use anything for fire protection?
     
  2. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Are you sure it's used for both the HVAC and the water heater.
    It looks like a 4" B vent for a water heater, as a HVAC B vent for both would be a larger diameter.
    You can wrap the seams with aluminum HVAC foil tape, but a better solution is to install a carbon monoxide detector in the room.
    There are plug in units that are installed near the floor directly into a wall plud outlet.
     
  3. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    I did buy a detector and put up in the closet near that vent.

    Both the exhaust ducts from the HVAC and water heater connect into a Y and go through the ceiling in my garage and that's what that duct in the closet is.
     
  4. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    Would it hurt to seal that off?
     
  5. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Nope.
    Go to Home Cheapo and buy a roll of foil tape.
    Use scissors to cut it with. I prefer the type that has a paper backing that you peel off as you work it around the pipe.
    It's a tar baby to work with, but it will defiantly do the job.

    67051a90-eca4-4693-a73f-1e1232a24df5_400.jpg
     
    308 likes this.
  6. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    Great thank you!
     
  7. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    If you live in a high wind area, you might want to look up on your roof to see if the exhaust vent cap is a high wind style like the pic below.
    Low wind caps in a high wind situation can force the exhaust back down the pipe

    There are basically two manufactures of B vents pipes and fittings, one being Simpson Duravent and the other is Amerivent.
    Duravent will just twist off in a CCW rotation, but Amerivent has locking tabs and once installed, you need to bend the locking tabs out a little to twist the cap off.

    upload_2015-9-6_20-1-23.jpeg
     
  8. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    We don't get a lot of wind other than the few wind storms we had here this past fall.
    But it's not a high wind cap.
    I need to do a repair on the flashing of the vent on the roof. The bottom corner was somehow bent up and a couple nails were pulled up. It was leaking down the vent and damaged some paint, not bad and didn't look like a lot, but when I got in the attic and looked at that corner of the duct going out the roof I could see daylight.
    Fixing that on the next dry day.
     
  9. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    1/2" plywood isn't much to nail down metal roof flashing.
    I always block in that area with some scrap 2x6 when I can.
     
  10. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    That makes sense and I might take that advise to secure it better.

    Thanks for all the info
     
  11. 308

    308 ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Platinum Supporter Silver Supporter

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    I'll bet the heat transfer off that duct keeps the closet warm in summer and winter.
     
  12. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    Yeah i checked it when the water heater was fired up and it was warm. Not hot but probably work the same as radiant heat
     
  13. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Is your water heater strapped to the wall with some form of seismic strapping?
     
  14. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    I don't believe so. I'd have to get in the garage tomorrow and look
     
  15. Dyjital

    Dyjital Albany, Ore Flavorite Member Bronze Supporter

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    Correct me if I'm wrong..

    Isn't CO heavier than air so really if this were in the upstairs you would not only want a detector in that room but also at the lowest level of the residence where the CO would collect in abundance?

    Our gas heater and gas water heater sit in the converted old garage. 8" lip into main house. Dense CO would collect in that room first so detector is there to give first alarm.

    Just making sure my info was correct.

    Completely agree while I'm not a HVAC guy but the proper sealant tape would do wonders for making "damn sure" that there are no leakages...
     
    clearconscience likes this.
  16. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    A water heater located in a garage should be raised off the floor with a metal stand at least 18" to prevent accidental combustion of volatile fumes near the floor.
     
  17. clearconscience

    clearconscience Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    It is on a stand off the floor and strapped.

    Got one thing right!

    We bought the house a couple years ago and had a fool for a home inspector. Missed a lot I found after moving in.
    We never used this room until now and moving my baby girl in there I want to make it safe.
     
  18. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    A good home inspector will not be recommended by a Realtor, as they don't want the sale to fall apart.
     
  19. 308

    308 ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Platinum Supporter Silver Supporter

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    The aluminum tape mentioned above works great for taping the seams on the ducts. There are better commercial types that I am always happy to find left over in the ceiling areas after the sheetmetal guys have gone bye bye, but the HomeDepot stuff works well in a pinch.

    I found the residential hvac installers were very sloppy with the duct installation in my home (shocker :rolleyes: ) ...so I ended up fixing all they crappy mistakes.

    Not sure how you feel about it, but I'd probably box in that vent pipe if for no other reason than aesthetics.
     
  20. Stomper

    Stomper Oceania Rising White Is The New Brown Silver Supporter

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    I've been a HVAC service-tech/installer for about 25-yrs now, and jbett is right on the money. It is type-B gas vent pipe, and is double-walled. Generally it's not necessary to tape the joints, but the above suggestions are exactly what I would use too, if I decided the joints needed taped.

    Type-B gas vent can be enclosed in a chase or sofit, but keep in mind that it requires 1" clearance from all combustibles.