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Just finished sorting through two 5 gallon buckets of 5.56/223 range brass, half of which ended up being crimped primers. The crimped cases break down as around 35% LC NATO 5.56, 40% FC 223, and the rest an alphabet soup of various headstamps. As it's basically free brass, I don't mind the extra time and effort processing it, but was curious if there are particular headstamps I should cull as not being worth my time.

Interesting side note. I don't know who shot these rounds when, but after awhile, I could recognize brass that went through the same rifle. I could also tell that there are a lot of folks shooting guns with problems. Makes me feel very lucky that my foray into the AR world has continued to be a no drama affair, and also makes me wonder how many folks are paying attention to what their brass/rifles are trying to tell them. After this exercise, I know I'll be paying even more attention! Later.

Dave
 
Berdan primed cases go, steel cases go (obviously), cases with damaged rims go.

As far as which brand is worth it, it all depends on how much work you're willing to do to it, and what your expectations are for accuracy.

I'll save and segregate pretty much any brass for reuse. It just takes on different roles.

PMC and wolf brass cases often have off center flash holes, so again, just depends on the end purpose for your loads.

At least separate by head stamp if at all possible. This will get you more consistent results than a mixed bag.
 
more consistent results than a mixed bag.
In the end after all those sorting buckets, there remains a certain scrap value of those for which you don't have reloading plans.

I've been recovering a large portion of my own 22LR brass the past 6 months. Surprising the volume that is accumulating so far. Don't know current scrap rate, but since I got to pick it up anyway.....
 
Berdan primed cases go, steel cases go (obviously), cases with damaged rims go.

As far as which brand is worth it, it all depends on how much work you're willing to do to it, and what your expectations are for accuracy.

I'll save and segregate pretty much any brass for reuse. It just takes on different roles.

PMC and wolf brass cases often have off center flash holes, so again, just depends on the end purpose for your loads.

At least separate by head stamp if at all possible. This will get you more consistent results than a mixed bag.

Not expecting top accuracy from all of it, I'll be using two broad categories, blasting ammo for my AR, and reserving the better stuff for my bolt 223. For the latter, I'll mostly focus on the LC. I know it's not Lapua, but I'm also not going to be shooting at 1000 yards. And yes, for that, I sort by headstamp. For the blasting stuff, not so much.

Didn't know about off center flash holes, I have a lot of PMC, a fair amount of which I've already reloaded and shot with no issues. But again, that was in my AR with a moderate load, so I wasn't expecting too much. Later, and thanks for the response.

Dave
 
I don't know of any brass cases not worth the effort. Especially if it is used for varmint hunting and you may or may not collect the case afterwards. I do stay away from nickel coated brass, but only on the advice of a couple of people...have no empirical evidence you shouldn't use it.

I would set aside any Lapua, Norma or Nosler brass and use it in my bolt guns. I would also segregate out the Winchester brass for the same because I consider it just one step below the other three. Any other headstamp besides those 4 I would put into my plinking pile and have fun.

I will disclaim that different brass can and will have different internal capacities, so I would stay away from max loads with the mixed brass lots.
 
Just a heads up not all brass is boxer primed (in case you were just thinking steel and zink coated were).....I have Malaysian 7.62 that is berdan primed but brass and I would not even think of reloading......all brass is worth picking up if you have time to sort it and a place to put it. Your cleaning up your range and either providing yourself with extra components or making a few cents off recycling.
 
. I could also tell that there are a lot of folks shooting guns with problems
Can you describe what you mean?

I ask because all of my ar's leave a dent in the case about half way between neck and rim. Did some research and came to the conclusion it wasn't a big deal.
 
Besides the berdan stuff there is one headstamp of 5.56 (I think it's IK??) that I know of that has undersized flash holes. A decapping pin will fit in the flashhole and get stuck. If it hits off dead center it might break or bend your pin. Just something to watch out for. There is so much 223 and 5.56 brass laying around I'm not going to be the one to drill them out LOL.
 
Can you describe what you mean?

I ask because all of my ar's leave a dent in the case about half way between neck and rim. Did some research and came to the conclusion it wasn't a big deal.

Not what I was referring too, but I had the same issue with my AR. At first, I thought it was a buffer weight issue, too light. I ordered a tungsten weight set and played around with it, it helped, but didn't completely cure the issue. I've since learned it's actually a BCG travel issue, it's simply coming back too far. Easy to determine if this is the problem, and also easy to fix.

First, pull the CH all the way back and see where the bolt is in relation to the back edge of the ejection port. It should be about 1/8" in front of the back edge, if it's flush or behind, it's going too far. If that's the case, pull the buffer and spring and drop some shims in the buffer tube, quarters are just the right size, but you'll need to drill a hole in the center once you determine how many you need. Bear in mind, too many and the BCG won't be able to lock back on empty. Hope that helps.

Dave
 
Not what I was referring too, but I had the same issue with my AR. At first, I thought it was a buffer weight issue, too light. I ordered a tungsten weight set and played around with it, it helped, but didn't completely cure the issue. I've since learned it's actually a BCG travel issue, it's simply coming back too far. Easy to determine if this is the problem, and also easy to fix.

First, pull the CH all the way back and see where the bolt is in relation to the back edge of the ejection port. It should be about 1/8" in front of the back edge, if it's flush or behind, it's going too far. If that's the case, pull the buffer and spring and drop some shims in the buffer tube, quarters are just the right size, but you'll need to drill a hole in the center once you determine how many you need. Bear in mind, too many and the BCG won't be able to lock back on empty. Hope that helps.

Dave
Interesting. I've never heard that before. I know an adjustable gas block will take care of the problem too. I've also made it work by increasing the buffer weight and using a full M16 bolt carrier. The extra weight of both will slow down the cycling rate and smooth it out. It's generally caused by an over gassed system (gas port is drilled too large). Manufacturers do this so they will function even with crap loads like wolf and other underpowered ammo. Problem is, when you run full power loads, it beats the hell out of the weapon system.
 

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