Any axle experts (forklift)?

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Ownerus, Jun 10, 2018.

  1. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    Through an unfortunate series of circumstances, I have inherited a broken forklift of mystery origin. It has a broken axle (or stripped spline/key or such). In taking it apart in hopes of repairing it, I have it to the point where it looks like the brake drum should come off in order to get to the next headache. So far I haven't been able to budge it. A large puller etc, no luck. The key in the end of the axle looks slightly distorted and is no doubt not helping. It's not hung up on the brake shoes, it still spins freely even under the tension with the wheel puller. The next step is to apply still more BFFI (brute force and...ignorance) but I'm a little concerned I'm missing something. There's no more retaining nuts, snap rings etc. on the end of the axle, nothing on the backing plate that looks like it would interfere. I suspect that whatever broke the axle may have also spalled something between the drum and axle and that's the problem. Just curious if anyone has dismantled this sort of axle and knows something I'm missing. I suppose I could take apart the other side that's not broken (maybe it would come apart easier:rolleyes:) to see what's under the drum but not really looking for more work. It's kind of a horrible old machine but the engine runs and the hydraulics work and, most importantly, it's pneumatic tired and will run on rough ground (if I can make it go again). If the only thing still holding the drum to the axel is rust, galling etc., I'll work on concocting a more forceful puller:eek: since it appears I have to get the drum off to access whatever wheel bearing is under there to pull the broken axle. Suggestion? forklift axle.jpg forklift axle 1.jpg
     
  2. SOrez

    SOrez
    SOR
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    I would soak it overnight with Free All penetrant and if that didn't work I would try a little heat. If that didn't I would figure out a way hook a porta power or hydraulic jack to a puller.
     
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  3. peternov01

    peternov01
    gresham
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    same as above penetrating oil till morning then heat and a mallet (or sledge hammer depending on how i felt about it) in the morning.
     
  4. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    Yeah, a hydraulic Jack lashup is my next option. Just hoping to confirm I'm not going to add trouble by breaking something else I'm overlooking. Don't need more BS (busted stuff) I'm already buried in BS. ;)
     
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  5. Lilhigbee

    Lilhigbee
    SE Portland
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    Here's what you are up against and the proper tool for the job.

    There are also versions of the tool with a piece that fits over the hex that has places to hit it with a large hammer. Very effective. Definitely put the nut back on to protect the threads of the axle. Ideally put the nut on flush and then put something between the puller stem and the axle/nut. It is possible to mushroom the end of the axle and add to your grief. Maybe borrow the tool from Auto Zone??
    Ideally tighten the tool as tight as you can with a socket and then put the hammerhead on and hit it with a large hammer.
    GOOD LUCK!!

    The other tool;
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI_5rHkf7K2wIVUp7ACh155gYQEAQYASABEgLEgfD_BwE
     
  6. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    Thanks for the input. I have a puller like that second one linked but it only goes up to 5/8" studs. This beast has 3/4" studs. I tried the hammer method only I used my air chisel then a rivet gun. I've used this technique successfully on things like stuck pulleys or ball joints but no action this time. I had placed the castle nut over the end of the shaft to protect the threads but the rivet gun bounced a bit and hit it and it broke in two and flew off. It was surprisingly brittle for a nut.

    Next step is to make a puller that will thread onto the studs and let me use a hydraulic bottle jack. Of course, the studs are L.H. thread so I had to order a tap to make the connectors. I should be able to get it off or at least break something :rolleyes:
     
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  7. cigars

    cigars
    Beaverton, USA
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    Don't use force. Get a bigger hammer. Slide hammer?
    Agree with the others. Some PB Blaster over night and heat. Then crank on your puller while someone taps around the drum with a hammer.
    If all else fails, you can make some serious change in scrap on that thing.
     
  8. jbett98

    jbett98
    NW Oregon
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    I'd take turns beating on either side of the drum while running an impact gun on the puller.
     
  9. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki
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    Ditto on the B.F.H. on the edge of the drum after soaking and heating! Make sure the wheel studs don' have wedges:eek: usually a small flat blade screw driver and a tap of a hammer will loosen those up! Also make sure there isn't a "E-Ring" retainer on the axle end. Worst case, a semi truck axle puller would be needed as well as the aforementioned B.F.H! Another Good trick is to soak in Coke a Cola, works well some times! Good luck!
     
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  10. CoastRange57

    CoastRange57
    Western Oregon
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    My neighbor got a "great deal on just such a unit. It lasted him about a year of abusive sporadic use and then he parked it in his yard with his other 8 pieces of various motorized sh*t that adorn his yard and driveway.

    He asked why I built that 8 foot wood fence between our places. :eek::eek:. Because I am selling my place next year and your sh*thole place does not need to be seen. Clueless obliviot.
     
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  11. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    One of many reasons i don't live in town.
     
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  12. partsed

    partsed
    Silverton Oregon
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    I am sure you have checked this, but is it possible that the shoes are hanging up the drum from coming off??? We’ve seen instances where there is such a ridge worn by the shoes into the drum that the shoes have the drum held in place.
     
  13. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    That's not the problem. When all loaded up with the puller it still spins freely so it's not touching the shoes. Yet anyway. That may be a problem after I get it to move a bit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
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  14. Rock solid

    Rock solid
    Nw oregon
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    Load up the puller with as much tension as you dare and take a rose bud to the drum where it's hanging up on the studs or spindle. Stand to the side of the drum because it might let go with some force. The goal is to rapidly expand the drum with heat wile the spindle stays relatively cool and doesn't expand, if the spindle soaks up too much of the heat than this route is a lost cause. I'd guess it will pop around 4-500 deg.
     
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  15. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki
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    ^^^Don't forget the B.F.H.^^^
     
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  16. partsed

    partsed
    Silverton Oregon
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    And most importantly.......

    Video it....
     
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  17. CoastRange57

    CoastRange57
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    Don't live in town, unfortunately this can occur in the country in some cases. My new place in Central Oregon will be 400 feet off the road and 300 feet from the closest house and there is enough juniper between us I will not see them.
     
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  18. v0lcom13sn0w

    v0lcom13sn0w
    Keizer
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    is the park brake on?
     
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  19. rick49

    rick49
    Oklahoma via Wa St
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    Penetrating oil test.
     
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  20. Ownerus

    Ownerus
    South Clackamas Co.
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    No. That's what the mention of it spinning freely was supposed to indicate. And, this creature has a drive line band brake for a parking brake. Wouldn't be effective on the wheel with the broken axle anyway. But thanks for playing :) Never hurts to revisit something to check assumptions.;)
     
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