Any Audiophiles out there?

[A2theK]

I need help trying to figure out a setup for sound that will cover 2 acres or so of sound at 80db with minimal distortion. Not sure on SPLs. The speakers will need to be left outside in an enclosure that is winter proof and cam be opened as needed. 110v or 240 is 150ft away. Any ideas? LOL. Amp and monitor selection would be appreciated. I have a high power laser projector and I want to impress my 7 year old. Sound ordinances are not an issue.

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[Flopsweat]

Since no one has responded, I'll offer what little help I can. I'm by no means an expert, but it sounds like quite a project to me. Depending on what you mean by 'minimal distortion' it may be a bit much for a layman. Loud is easy. Loud and high fidelity is harder. Loud, high fidelity and consistent over a large area is professional territory. You may want to hire an outdoor event sound company (LOL, that's probably not even what they're called) to help you design and tune the system.

 

[SrMachoSolo]

I have a high power laser projector and I want to impress my 7 year old. Sound ordinances are not an issue.

Living the dream.

I prefer vintage stuff myself, but if I were to go new tech... a Crown amp with some JBL speakers (SRX835) seems to be the most tried and true formula.

I'd start with an estimate of 3000-5000 watts (expect the dollar to equal the watts for quality gear), depending on your budget, intended music, and levels of sanity. In my head I'd say 10k watts, but my levels of sanity have left long ago lol. Even 1000w is sure to impress, but you may not get the distance you want out of that.

We can talk about headroom, or matching the amp/speaker in continous power handling (RMS, not peak), but need to know what the dimensions are, chest thumping power at what distance exactly? (2 acres square, 297ft of distance from the speaker?) BTW, ideally, no distortion (clipping) would ensure the longevity of the speaker as well as the fidelity of the music.

P.S. Tell me more about your laser...

-Robert

 

[A2theK]

Both of you guys are awesome taking the time to entertain a response. I know am I out of my league. I don't have a major budget and have done car audio a bit, but I know for sure after talking to a McIntosh guy are here you guys know your shat.

Thanks again. I will let.you know how it comes along if I can pull it off.

The laser is just a RGB ILDA 25-30kpps laser I got on a freak bid in Ebay at about 5-7W. Those Chinese dudes actually honored the bid and sent a real good laser DHL for like $4-500 bucks or whatever. It can cloud scan, but I don't due to constant military traffic. I am an amateur. Both with a welder, mixer, rifle, or laser projector.

 

[Flopsweat]

If you're willing to stand within 30 feet of the speakers, the price and complexity come down a lot. Look up "portable pa loudspeaker" or "industrial pa loudspeaker". I'm thinking Alto, JBL or Mackie but there are a lot of good brands out there. Powered speakers give you way less worries about headroom and clipping because they'll have the amp built in, plus a DSP with clipping and thermal protection. With some of them you may notice that the bass rolls off as you approach max volume. Just make note of it and don't exceed what sounds good. Plus you can play with crossover frequencies and eq to let the sub drive most of the lower bass. Once you know what you're looking for, check out Craig's list and eBay for used stuff. Sometimes there are really good deals out there. Have your audio friend check them out before you buy. People do really bubblegumty stuff like replacing blown out drivers with cheap crap. Not all the time but it happens. If you put two 250W mains a couple of feet off the ground and a 500W sub on the ground you'd have some rock happening a close range. Or if you don't want anything blocking the view you can move them around a little to see what still sounds OK.

Well that was a little rambly but I hope it helped.

EDIT: Hey look at this bad boy. You can find them for about $300 retail.

MACKIE

Mackie products have been making music across a wide-range of applications since our founding in Woodinville, WA in 1988.

mackie.com

I played one of these once from my cell phone (Bluetooth) and it sounded really good. Two of those and a decent sub and you just might have it.

 

[dmmv]

As mentioned, probably JBL or even cerwin-vega if available. Crown powering it. I feel like I need a Bender avatar to respond here

 

[SrMachoSolo]

As mentioned, probably JBL or even cerwin-vega if available. Crown powering it. I feel like I need a Bender avatar to respond here

Please bring your own blackjack, and hookers.


-Robert

 

[Flopsweat]

I feel like I need a Bender avatar to respond here

Found you one.

 

[CountryGent]

Please bring your own blackjack, and hookers.
View attachment 873923

-Robert

Well, you can't argue with the facts.

 

[dmmv]

Found you one.

That's what I'm talking about!

 

[3MTA3]

Late to this party, but you might want to check in at audiokarma.org. I'm certain a lot of members there would jump at the chance to help out.

two acres of coverage is quite the task and outdoor sound due to lack of the effect of being in a room makes a difference in the sound response of the speakers.

I'd personally go with used equipment designed for PA usage. A lot of the vintage gear is freaking amazing though may need a tune up. JBL used many of the same components in their PA systems that they used in their top tier BIG buck audiophile speakers for example.

IMO I'd look into two way speakers that use a compression driver and a wave guide. Do a search on "econowave" if you are DIY friendly. The roots of the econowave go to the JBL 4430, which I think would do justice to what you are trying to accomplish.

There is a lot of amplifier snake oil. What you want is something rated for it's power from 20 Hz to 20 KHz continuously. Most of the new lightweight amps you see are rated for 1 second at 1 kHz. In addition more power is easier on your speakers than less power. Seems counterintuitive, but the quickest way to damage a speaker is with DC. An amplifier with too little power will "clip" when it's at it's max and during the "clip" is providing DC instead of an AC waveform. At best it results in distorted output and at worst a blown speaker.

Stick with brands in common PA usage you can trust like Crown, Yamaha, QSC. These will typically use balanced inputs unlike the RCA jacks used on most consumer models. Craigslist and eBay are your friends.

To keep the cost down you need to be patient and knowledgeable as well as keeping your eye out for a bargain.

What is your music source?

 

[A2theK]

Late to this party, but you might want to check in at audiokarma.org. I'm certain a lot of members there would jump at the chance to help out.

two acres of coverage is quite the task and outdoor sound due to lack of the effect of being in a room makes a difference in the sound response of the speakers.

I'd personally go with used equipment designed for PA usage. A lot of the vintage gear is freaking amazing though may need a tune up. JBL used many of the same components in their PA systems that they used in their top tier BIG buck audiophile speakers for example.

IMO I'd look into two way speakers that use a compression driver and a wave guide. Do a search on "econowave" if you are DIY friendly. The roots of the econowave go to the JBL 4430, which I think would do justice to what you are trying to accomplish.

There is a lot of amplifier snake oil. What you want is something rated for it's power from 20 Hz to 20 KHz continuously. Most of the new lightweight amps you see are rated for 1 second at 1 kHz. In addition more power is easier on your speakers than less power. Seems counterintuitive, but the quickest way to damage a speaker is with DC. An amplifier with too little power will "clip" when it's at it's max and during the "clip" is providing DC instead of an AC waveform. At best it results in distorted output and at worst a blown speaker.
View attachment 874389
Stick with brands in common PA usage you can trust like Crown, Yamaha, QSC. These will typically use balanced inputs unlike the RCA jacks used on most consumer models. Craigslist and eBay are your friends.

To keep the cost down you need to be patient and knowledgeable as well as keeping your eye out for a bargain.

What is your music source?

Thank you too for the info. It looks like Crown Amps and a PA setup may be in the works to look for. My music source is just going to be a computer running Virtual DJ for now. I probably will use Remote Desktop so I can log in remotely. Weatherproofing is going to be tough. Getting AC power is going to be tough too so I may have to set up in the house and drop cables out a window for "party nights" This looks like this is going to be a bit of a bigger project than I thought. I also have to due some calculations and see what the max length for running power and signal cable is. I had a chance to get a free setup a couple years ago and I am kicking myself for not taking it. I will look up the "econowave" and do some studying.

Thanks again everyone

 

[3MTA3]

Thank you too for the info. It looks like Crown Amps and a PA setup may be in the works to look for. My music source is just going to be a computer running Virtual DJ for now. I probably will use Remote Desktop so I can log in remotely. Weatherproofing is going to be tough. Getting AC power is going to be tough too so I may have to set up in the house and drop cables out a window for "party nights" This looks like this is going to be a bit of a bigger project than I thought. I also have to due some calculations and see what the max length for running power and signal cable is. I had a chance to get a free setup a couple years ago and I am kicking myself for not taking it. I will look up the "econowave" and do some studying.

Thanks again everyone

Use balanced cables for long runs between the source and the amps if you go that way. The PA Amps will have balanced inputs. I'd suggest a DAC or processor on the computer end that has balanced outputs that matches the style used on the amps. If you use an adapter cable that's RCA or stereo jack on one end and balanced on the other it won't really be balanced and in addition to losses you will be more susceptible to to noise and ground loop (hum).

In my system I use this for my signal path for my living room system:

• Computer --> USB Clock (eliminates jitter) -->DAC Fiber Input (electrical isolation to prevent power supply noise)-->Electronic Crossover
• xc high goes to the amps that power a pair of satellites
• xc low goes to a summing device and then to an amp for a diy sub

Here are a couple of DACs that have balanced outputs:

Schiit Modius Balanced DAC Silver | eBay

Schiit Modius Balanced DAC Silver. Mint Condition and works perfectly. Comes with all original packaging and accessories (user manual, USB cable, and wall wart).

www.ebay.com

Emotiva XDA-2 DAC & digital pre-amplifier with remote and manual | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Emotiva XDA-2 DAC & digital pre-amplifier with remote and manual at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I use the XDA-1 in my living room system above. Very high quality for the price and you can't beat the billet remote control.

 

[Flopsweat]

That's what I'm talking about!

Greetings, fellow bending unit.

EDIT: Is that a Fender Bender?

 

[A2theK]

Guns and sound (sound) advice. I came to the right place. A major wealth in knowledge. You guys saved me hours and hours. Can't say it enough.