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I recently saw a post about this on another board (Yeah, go ahead and spank me, it was cryfish) but it really made me rethink how mine was setup very poorly at best prior to this post.
Here is my post on the thread: http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?t=1223313

Thanks to the OP for starting this post!!!!
This really woke me up on my unreliable & past attempt at an anchor management system.
Many great tips such as a little heavier chain & an extra 6' section for heavier current along with extra lengths of ropes for other depths.
Here is my revised system (waiting on the chain covering from StrapWorks).

30# CR anchor, 6' 3/8 chain, 300' braided nylon rope (200'& 100' of extra rope), anchor pull & A3 ball, milk crate (with custom floatie thingies attached (a test)) and bullit float with 15' of tag line with small float at the end (will find some floating rope soon).
The only weak link I see is the SS quick clip from the chain to rope.

20160423_145710_zpsypfresjy.jpg
 
Now your hitting on all 8 cylinders Caveman.
I fished the big-C for for years while chasing Sturgon, salmon and walleye and when anchoring in that big old girl, the only way to do it was the right way!
Plenty of rope between the anchor and the "floatie thing"-and then some more. After that, more,more,more to an additional "floatie thing" (crab ring float) and then 10' more to another crab ring type float with a quick clip carribinier to attach to your vessel. This allows you to quickly disconnect from your system to follow/fight larger fish and to also get the heck out of the way of barge traffic (something some morons just don't understand) and the return to and retrieve your system with a boat hook between the two floats without risking getting the sometimes treacherous rope fouled in your prop or jet.
Remember, the longer the system, the less swing, and if a west wind kicks up, add a sea anchor.
I'm probably not telling an old salt like you anything here, but when you use the current and foward motion to get your "floatie thing" to pull your anchor up, I always swung WAY wide to the port so I could keep a good eye on it, you'll know when it's completely up when it snaps down momentarily as the anchor hits it and then floats vertically.
Watch the slack! Retrieve it as you go so that it doesn't foul your prop or jet.
Damn, that's one of the few things I miss about living close by the big-C, other than that I'd rather eat the arse out of a BBQ'd
Road killed skunk than live anywhere near the metro mess that is the willamette valley.:s0071:
 
My many years wishing sturgeon, learnt me by an old timer, the best anchor, Danforth type, modified with added shear-pins to allow the anchor to unfold and release from otherwise anchor losing situations.
 
I installed one of these at the back of my boat near a rod holder, so I could release the anchor rope by myself while fighting a fish.
I didn't like setting the rod back into the holder and running up to the bow to release the anchor rope, especially when using barb-less hooks.
With the large flotation ball floating in front of the bow and the extra anchor rope stuffed into a small mesh laundry bag, I would run a 30' section of rope with a quick clip snapped to the end of the main line into the bow wedge chock to hold the boat temporarily, then along side the cabin and into the aft wedge chock.
I would then go to the bow and move the line out of the bow wedge chock and into a standard cleat.
I found that the simpler the system, the safer it was. Too many extra floats and other devises just tend to tangle things up at the worst time.




[CLAM-0011]_1-0_Clamcleat-CL204.jpg
 
Ten years ago, I was fishing for fall salmon next to Government Island and a guy anchored next to me kept staring at my homemade fish alarm that was hooked up to my rod holder.
He finally asked me some questions about it, and after I explained that I liked to read books while anchored up and I would get bored to death waiting for a fish to bite.
He jotted down some notes and a year or so later these fish alarms showed up at Fishermans Marine.

upload_2016-5-6_18-32-43.jpeg
Here's the toy space gun that I bought at Walmart for $3.99 and the rest is just some stuff laying around my shop.
It's got four different ray gun sounds and flashes blue lights when set off.
A lot of salmon have been caught with that ray gun.
You can also adjust the sensitivity to super light for sturgeon bites.

fish 004.JPG
 
Ten years ago, I was fishing for fall salmon next to Government Island and a guy anchored next to me kept staring at my homemade fish alarm that was hooked up to my rod holder.
He finally asked me some questions about it, and after I explained that I liked to read books while anchored up and I would get bored to death waiting for a fish to bite.
He jotted down some notes and a year or so later these fish alarms showed up at Fishermans Marine.

View attachment 291443
Here's the toy space gun that I bought at Walmart for $3.99 and the rest is just some stuff laying around my shop.
It's got four different ray gun sounds and flashes blue lights when set off.
A lot of salmon have been caught with that ray gun.
You can also adjust the sensitivity to super light for sturgeon bites.

View attachment 291444

Man I'm getting old, an old bell clipped on the rod was the stuff back then. My fishing partner and Iincorporated a 'seeing eye dog"
In the form of a wiener dog named Hermie, didn't need to even watch the rods with old Herm on board, he'd tell ya.
Handy little critter, he never did quite get the idea of letting wild, under and oversized fish go though, hence a good quick release anchoring system was put to use bunches.

Many times the "oh crap there goes Hermie" alarm was sounded.
Miss that little twerp.
 
I installed one of these at the back of my boat near a rod holder, so I could release the anchor rope by myself while fighting a fish.
I didn't like setting the rod back into the holder and running up to the bow to release the anchor rope, especially when using barb-less hooks.
With the large flotation ball floating in front of the bow and the extra anchor rope stuffed into a small mesh laundry bag, I would run a 30' section of rope with a quick clip snapped to the end of the main line into the bow wedge chock to hold the boat temporarily, then along side the cabin and into the aft wedge chock.
I would then go to the bow and move the line out of the bow wedge chock and into a standard cleat.
I found that the simpler the system, the safer it was. Too many extra floats and other devises just tend to tangle things up at the worst time.




View attachment 291330


On every boat I've owned up here each one had the cinch chock on them. I have the utmost confidence that they will hold.
 
Last Edited:
Grind the tips of the anchor for a better hold. In some places the bottom is rock hard, and I've seen a lot of boats start dragging down river every time a swell comes along, especially if they've got a sea sock tied off the stern.
 
One problem with starting out with only 200' of rope, is trying to add the extra rope with the ball retrieval system fixed to the first 200' of rope.
You can tie on some extra rope (50'-75') but when the current is really ripping, the retrieval ball can be sucked down by the current.
 

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