Ak stock refinishing question

[Stick]

Apparently the search function isn't working so I'll just ask.
I'd like to refinish the stock on my ak so it looks original. I don't need help on the actual refinishing just on the product to use.
Cause everyone likes pics


That's what I'm out to fix

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[snooopidydoo]

Norinco? I couldn't help you, i just like pictures

 

[Stick]

It's built from a Bulgarian parts kit and ak builder flat.
And everyone likes pictures

 

[trekkerpaul]

Find a stain that matches the original color, or have one made at your local paint store (not a super stores as they will likely F it up). There is a product that is a rattle can lacquer that works wonderfully, dries quickly, hard final finish and can be applied in multiple coats. Make sure it is the lacquer version and not a varnish. Varnish will take weeks to fully off gas and cure. Make sure to get an oil based stain so it does not conflict with the lacquer. I would recommend a pre stain conditioner to help with an even application of the stain too.

 

[jbett98]

Birchwood Casey makes the stock finish "Tru-Oil".
Very easy to use, dries in a day if placed in a warm area, and after four coats, gives a very durable finish.
I use 4/0 steel wool between coats and if I am trying for a vintage look, I lightly rub some steel wool over the last coat and then apply some
KIWI (black / brown) shoe polish over the stock and after it dries, buff with a soft cloth.

 

[jonn5335]

Get some stripper, strip the finish, steam out the dents/dings, sand in steps 80-100-150-220 work up to at least 220 grit wet down the bare wood with water and sand with 220-300 grit, put on some prestain conditioner (dont touch it without rubber gloves at this point), get some oil based stain of what color you prefer, stain let dry and repeat (2 coats), finish is up to you for an Ak I'd go with a satin or semi gloss polyurethane give it (2 coats and be done) brush on or finger finish only unless you have a compressor and a good detail airbrush otherwise it will leave orange peel and the finish will look crappy or go with tru oil it is a lot easier to work with but is very time consuming I usually end up with 20-30 coats by the time I'm done and lots of 0000 steel wool

Just a side note I have refinished a few 7.62's what worked really well for a russian red style stock was 1/2 rustoleum brand cabernet and 1/2 minwax brand red mahogany.

Here is a pic of my last stock refinish because everone likes pictures

 

[Stick]

Thanks guys. That should get started.
And that stock is purdy

 

[CLT65]

I recognize that rifle.

I think the original finish on most com-bloc guns was shellac. It's cheap and easy to apply, but not fancy.
If it was me, I would sand off all the old finish with up to 220 grit sandpaper, making it look good and being careful to not round any corners, then try to find some stain that will make the buttstock match (or at least come close to) the forearm. Then I'd put on 3 or 4 coats of poly or tru-oil.

I'll be down your way tomorrow for the day. I have some stain and Tru-oil you can have if you want it.

 

[Stick]

I recognize that rifle.

I think the original finish on most com-bloc guns was shellac. It's cheap and easy to apply, but not fancy.
If it was me, I would sand off all the old finish with up to 220 grit sandpaper, making it look good and being careful to not round any corners, then try to find some stain that will make the buttstock match (or at least come close to) the forearm. Then I'd put on 3 or 4 coats of poly or tru-oil.

I'll be down your way tomorrow for the day. I have some stain and Tru-oil you can have if you want it.

That sounds good.
I just didnt want it to look like someone's shiny dresser when it was done.
Are you coming to work on your house?

 

[mancat]

Bulgarian stocks have an original finish of amber shellac.

Be wary when using any sort of penetrant or stain on Bulgarian stock sets. You may not like the results that you get on the lower handguard. This is because the LHG is walnut, while the rest of the stock is beech wood. I have had at least one Bulgarian LHG that would not take any stain at all - the walnut was just too dense. It did take great to a coat of amber shellac, which was I previously mentioned the original finish..

A little hint about amber shellac.. You might know that it's a pain in the *** to brush on and get it uniform. A foam brush does it better than a hair brush, but even better is an HVLP sprayer. Dilute the shellac about 1/4 with denatured alcohol, and spray in light coats. Rather than gumming up a nice HVLP gun, you can use a cheap "Preval" brand HVLP sprayer from Lowe's/Home Depot - just make sure to keep the nozzle cleaned out with denatured alcohol, or it will gum up.

Let shellac set up and harden for about a week or more. It's not really up to it's full hardness, even when it appears to be dry.

Personally I like plain old boiled linseed oil on the Bulgarian stocks. I've done about 3 sets of them with just simple hand-rubbing, undiluted BLO, then a polishing wax topcoat to seal it.

Here you can see a Bulgarian LHG and gas tube cover in amber shellac (the buttstock is Romanian)



Here is a full Bulgarian set finished in hand-rubbed BLO and wax topcoat. I like the natural colors that come out of the beech and walnut with BLO, and the wax finish makes the grain pop out. Photo doesn't do it justice. Tru-oil will get you similar results, but with a bit more luster/shine.

 

[Dan1477]

Sometimes I feel like AK's are the most beautiful rifles in the world. And then sometimes they are the ugliest contraption known to man.

 

[Stick]

Bulgarian stocks have an original finish of amber shellac.

Be wary when using any sort of penetrant or stain on Bulgarian stock sets. You may not like the results that you get on the lower handguard. This is because the LHG is walnut, while the rest of the stock is beech wood. I have had at least one Bulgarian LHG that would not take any stain at all - the walnut was just too dense. It did take great to a coat of amber shellac, which was I previously mentioned the original finish..

A little hint about amber shellac.. You might know that it's a pain in the *** to brush on and get it uniform. A foam brush does it better than a hair brush, but even better is an HVLP sprayer. Dilute the shellac about 1/4 with denatured alcohol, and spray in light coats. Rather than gumming up a nice HVLP gun, you can use a cheap "Preval" brand HVLP sprayer from Lowe's/Home Depot - just make sure to keep the nozzle cleaned out with denatured alcohol, or it will gum up.

Let shellac set up and harden for about a week or more. It's not really up to it's full hardness, even when it appears to be dry.

Personally I like plain old boiled linseed oil on the Bulgarian stocks. I've done about 3 sets of them with just simple hand-rubbing, undiluted BLO, then a polishing wax topcoat to seal it.

Here you can see a Bulgarian LHG and gas tube cover in amber shellac (the buttstock is Romanian)



Here is a full Bulgarian set finished in hand-rubbed BLO and wax topcoat. I like the natural colors that come out of the beech and walnut with BLO, and the wax finish makes the grain pop out. Photo doesn't do it justice. Tru-oil will get you similar results, but with a bit more luster/shine.

Probably not going to be staining the lower hand guard. I may stain the rest to match but I'm kinda thinking just leaving it natural colors.
I got the buttstock all sanded the other day. Once I get the hand guards sanded I'll decide what I'm going to do.