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Yep I am still getting my new-to-me Dillon 650 XL in a couple of months when we can move into the new house. I have been binge reading about this loader and how very good it is. There also seems to be a significant offering of aftermarket tweaks and add-ons that are supposed to make this reloader even better. Does anybody here use any of these extras and do they really make the 650 better? I am speaking about a new spring and polymer bearing to prevent powder spillage; ball bearing additions that supposedly make it run smoother; tweaks to the powder dropper; other magic sounding pixie wing items that sound wonderful, but are they really? Don't get me wrong here. I think I could really love the Mini Mr BulletFeeder. What say ye? Money well spent or keep the wallet in my pocket? Thanks ...
 
Yep I am still getting my new-to-me Dillon 650 XL in a couple of months when we can move into the new house. I have been binge reading about this loader and how very good it is. There also seems to be a significant offering of aftermarket tweaks and add-ons that are supposed to make this reloader even better. Does anybody here use any of these extras and do they really make the 650 better? I am speaking about a new spring and polymer bearing to prevent powder spillage; ball bearing additions that supposedly make it run smoother; tweaks to the powder dropper; other magic sounding pixie wing items that sound wonderful, but are they really? Don't get me wrong here. I think I could really love the Mini Mr BulletFeeder. What say ye? Money well spent or keep the wallet in my pocket? Thanks ...


I have a complete XL650 out in my workshop.... currently in cardboard boxes. LOL


Binge watch YouTube videos on the subject like I have, you can actually see the gadgets in action and decide from there.
 
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Blue Knob for powder measure, just push it on and you are good to go. Makes adjusting powder easier. 5 bucks for 2 on E Bay.
 
Get a light that mounts on the tool head. Also a bullet feeder is kinda necessary to benefit from the 650. The other stuff helps but it's only noticeable if you have several thousand rounds loaded already.
 
XL650 is the bomb.

I'd like to address more than what you have asked about. There's more to getting the most out of your ammo and XL650 than just the extras/aftermarket. However, aftermarket items really do jazz it up. I'll address your question first.

Armanov
Dillon Parts & Upgrades – Armanov Web Shop – USA

I own a Clickable Dillon Precision Powder Thrower Adjustment Knob for every caliber that I load "fully automatic". It really wins over adjusting your powder measure with a wrench.
In the future I will likely buy their Indexing Bearing Cam Block. It just makes sense for a smother operation to have a rolling bearing instead of a drag on plastic. I have read that it helps to decrease the amount of powder that can get thrown out of some cases.

Addressing power being thrown from cases now. I have read on the Dillon's tech support forum and on the Brian Enos forum that some people have good results after clipping the index bearing spring. Other people will say just go slower. Personally I have experienced powder being thrown from .308 cases and I opted to just go slower.

Moving on to some things I have learned.

Dillon carbide dies are great. I like that I can quickly remove the decaping pin assembly and run brass through when I want to get my powder measure setup to a different charge, without having to prime a case.
Speaking of dies, for one tool head I have a mix of mfg dies. For 45 ACP I have a Dillon decap/sizing die, a Redding Pro seating die, and a Lee Factory Crimp Die all on the same tool head. Feel free to mix and match at your pleasure.

I purchased additional Dillon brand die locking rings to make it easier for me to lock in dies of all brands using their 1" wrench. I especially like this for when I need to adjust a die after the tool head has been set up.

Use a degreaser to remove oils from their powder funnels before using them. I used acetone on a q-tip and wiped around the outer mouth. In my experience it has decreased the amount of powder that sticks to the funnel.

The powder check is nice but, I currently am not that excited about it. If you decided to get a bullet feeder, you won't be able to use this anyway.

Taking the time to read and cross reference the caliber conversion chart will reduce your cost of caliber conversions. All of the parts in a caliber conversion kit can also be used in other calibers. For example, you can use the same shell plate and indexing pins for .45 ACP and 458 SOCOM. 9mm and .380 also share some of the same parts. Buy a kit and then the individual parts needed to get another caliber going. The better use of your money can be spent on more Dillon items to make Dillon life even better.

The case feeder: Get all of the plates. Think "processing brass", at a faster rate. This is particularly nice for loading "semi automatic"

Definitions
Fully automatic: Using the Dillon case feeder and at least 4 out of 5 stations on the tool head to load. Decaping and sizing at station 1, and making use of the Dillon powder measure, seating and crimping separately.

Semi automatic: Using the Dillon case feeder and at least 4 out of 5 stations on the tool head to load. Decaping and sizing at station 1, and charging each case by weighing each charge on a scale, seating and crimping separately.

To use the Dillon in semi automatic, there's at least two ways to do it.
1. A tool head with only a sizing and decaping die and another tool head without it.
In this way, you drop your brass into the case feeder and run your brass through the loader. The only step in the process you're doing is sizing and decaping. After you finish your brass, you change your tool head to another that has a Dillon AT 500 Powder Die and the correct powder funnel, and the Dillon plastic funnel, along wit the seating die and crimp die. You will measure each charge individually on your scale and pour the powder into the each case, after priming. You then move on to seating and crimping as usual.

2. A tool head with only a sizing and decaping die and another tool head without it.
In this way, you drop your brass into the case feeder and run your brass through the loader. The only step in the process you're doing is sizing and decaping. After you finish your brass, you change your tool head to another that has only the seating and crimp die. You can prime your cases on a single stage press or a hand held primer, charge all your cases individually in a loading block, and then insert the cases into station 4 for bullet seating.

Semi automatic loading is what I use for my precision hunting rounds. I was taught this method by a former commercial loader, that saw an increase in consistency of loads and smaller groups when he switched to this method.

It is very easy to get up speed and load 700 rounds in an hour, fully automatic without the bullet feeder, and have consistency.
I have a powder measure for every caliber that I load fully automatic. I do not like to change powder measure. Some people don't mind it.

If you're getting or already are serious about loading, get handful of primer tubes, I have six large and six small. This way, you can load them up and be ready for when your primer buzzer sounds off and it's time to add more primers. It keeps your mojo going..but don't get hasty. Stop sometimes and mic a few finished rounds, make sure your consistently pushing and pulling each time, all the way.

Dillon has great customer service, use it. Some of the parts they have are not clearly marketed on their website. When I had questions about case feed adapters, I used their online chat to get quick answers instead of calling (I didn't feel like talking to anyone). They have some products (at least one) that don't have printed instructions...imagine that. I used the chat room box to verify my thoughts on its use before buying it.

Shop your local OfferUp, Craigslist, Armslist, gun shows for Dillon items. It can greatly reduce your costs when buying a used set of dies vs new. The same goes for caliber conversion kits. I have bought most of my Dillon dies second hand, and some of the caliber conversion kits I own cost less when bought second hand instead of by the cross referenced individual parts new.

Get a roller handle. Imagine holding that knob for an hour or two, it doesn't sound pleasant.
Get the Dillon Strong mount.
Get the Dillon spare parts kit.
Get some tool head stands or an after market multi tool head stand

And before you spend all the money on a new machine, look around for a second hand unit. Most likely it will be in great shape and come with a lot of conversion kits, stands, powder measures, scales, dies, etc etc etc. AND cost less than buying new. Most people don't abuse their Dillon, and even if there's a hitch in the giddy-up, Dillon will be there to support you. Then you also will have that much more money to spend on 5,000 primers for every caliber you want to load along with 8lb kegs of powder, 5,000 pistol caliber cases and all the bullets your heart desires.


Most importantly, enjoy and have fun.
 
re: "strong mount"
consider whether you will prefer standing or sitting during your reloading process;

My preference is sitting and the 'strong mount' is too tall for me to see into the cases well enough to visually confirm the powder check station.

Also, by LARGE margin, the Dillon dies of any caliber, work better/easier/more enjoyment than any of the others (manymany others) I have tried.

An in-tool-head light is very beneficial;

a system to route old primers away from the machine into a their own container for easy salvage is a Good Idea;

while Case Feeder is an essential for the efficient working of the 650 platform, I have not been convinced a 'bullet feeder' is, although I've never used one.

There's lots of add-on stuff out there these days for the 650; unless your basic machine demonstrates you really need something, my opinion is a New User will benefit from learning what the basic unencumbered factory stock version will do, first.

Great idea, locating your New Dillon so close to the beach.....;)
 
re: "strong mount"
consider whether you will prefer standing or sitting during your reloading process;

My preference is sitting and the 'strong mount' is too tall for me to see into the cases well enough to visually confirm the powder check station.

Wouldn't that depend on the height of your bench or chair?
 
so some amount, as my work bench surface is 28"; the standing strong mount is considerably higher added to that; about the difference between your sitting and standing change in head height as I recall. Just consider whatever the variance is. If you like to stand during your reloading process, strong mount will work fine.
 
Yes it has an installed strong mount. Seems to be about the right height for me to reload standing and still see inside of the powdered cases. Good advice given which I will take about using the 650 as is from the factory and decide upon the need for any extra stuff.
 
UPDATE: Doing demo now on our new house. New windows and a 9'x8' French door for the deck. Great mountain views. Also I have been purchasing upgrade items for the 650 XL based upon yall's recomendations. Cleaned and straightened the reloading room. The next steps are to install all the new goodies on the press. The former owner only reloaded .380 and 9mm. My primary reload is 45acp, of course. I have received the Dillon caliber conversion kit for 45acp and a new large pistol case feeder plate. Very nice components. Also added for installing is the 650 performance enhancement package from Snowshooze on eBay. All I need to do next after lotsa dump trips and end of the week construction clean ups is to install everything after a good cleaning and lubing of the machine. Yes, pics will follow. Ever so slowly ...
 

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