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The Henry is about $240.
And its all stored in the waterproof, dustproof, bouyant, buttstock..........

 
Good catch! Looks to be a modified American 180 drum maybe? I can't stand drums. Trying to get them to work on a 10/22 as a kid turned me off them for life.

found this fwiw on am 180 parts and info:


Interesting that company is located in riddle OR. Never heard of the place.
I got to shoot an AM15 upper in full auto. The owner said I could shoot it as much as I wanted to as long as I loaded the mags. I only shot it once. Fun to shoot, b*tch to load.

 
Very impressive. I stand corrected on magazine functionality.
I always wanted a rimfire bullet hose.
Not the same as full auto of course (and much lower rpm than that video maybe half?) but fwiw a binary trigger will get u 600rpm. I'm thinking maybe the frt trigger could get up to 800rpm (total guess) but the only .22 gun I know of it could work on is cmmg who makes an auto sear trip kit which allows the frt trigger to function.

I need to set the 15-22 bolt and an ar bolt side by side and see if the 15-22 bolt could be modified to act like the ar bolt (ie add a trip surface like the cmmg kit does). If it could then the frt trigger might work in the 15-22 which would be cool.
 
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Not the same as full auto of course but fwiw a binary trigger will get u 600rpm. I'm thinking maybe the frt trigger could get up to 800rpm (total guess) but the only .22 gun I know of it could work on is cmmg who makes an auto sear trip kit which allows the frt trigger to function.

I need to set the 15-22 bolt and an ar bolt side by side and see if the 15-22 bolt could be modified to act like the ar bolt (ie add a trip surface like the cmmg kit does). If it could then the frt trigger might work in the 15-22 which would be cool.
If you've ever had a straight blowback 22 this story might be familiar.
Back in the day, I had a pair of intratec scorpions. The firing pin is a simple flat piece of hardened steel. It's got a narrow portion notched in it that is prone to breakage.
One day the stars aligned, the firing pin broke, the right amount of grit was present to glue the front half of it protruding from the bolt and...
FA mag dump. 25 rds in 2 or 3 seconds.
 
Fwiw 15-22 with binary will dump 30 round mag in 3 seconds. Again, NOT the same feeling as full auto by a long shot but also nowhere near the cost. Example 10 round burst:
 
Let's see, I have four (?) .22 rimfire takedown rifles?

M6 Scout - .22/410
Pack Rifle (15 ounce single shot)
Ruger 10/22 takedown
Ruger 10/22 in a Magpul Hunter folding stock

The Pak Rifle is the lightest and most compact
IMGP3356-660x412.jpg

But also the slowest to shoot and reload.

I am given to understand that the guy who designed this broke off from the people who now manufacture it, and he makes (or did make) a kit to convert other rifles to ultralight takedowns.


I prefer the Magpul stock to the Ruger takedown - it is lighter, smaller and it can be used with other 10/22 rifles, not just the takedown model.
 
Let's see, I have four (?) .22 rimfire takedown rifles?

M6 Scout - .22/410
Pack Rifle (15 ounce single shot)
Ruger 10/22 takedown
Ruger 10/22 in a Magpul Hunter folding stock

The Pak Rifle is the lightest and most compact
View attachment 1019219

But also the slowest to shoot and reload.

I am given to understand that the guy who designed this broke off from the people who now manufacture it, and he makes (or did make) a kit to convert other rifles to ultralight takedowns.


I prefer the Magpul stock to the Ruger takedown - it is lighter, smaller and it can be used with other 10/22 rifles, not just the takedown model.
And .22WMR on the Pak Rifle!
 
I have struggled with the concept of having at the ready a firearm while I bowhunt (a legal practice). Politics and legalities aside, for all practical purposes while I hunt, I am a backpacker. I hunt on foot. There is ONE overriding factor that has been my constant obstacle:

The weight of ANY gun. I travel light, but with a daypack crammed with mostly hard gear, some shelter and survival items, food, and WATER. (If you've ever carried water on your back you know why it is capitalized here.)

On bowhunts where I believe I may need an alternate weapon, in Alaska it was a .357 or .41 Revolver. WAY too much weight. No usage to sweat ratio was favorable.

Best yet is a Contender, factory (slim octagon) barrel, slim (Phantom or Lobo) optic. .357 or (more recently) .256 Winchester Magnum.
Light weight. Minute of Grapefruit at 100 yards. Shove it in the pack and forget about it.

Operational, its the size of a medium-large handgun (which it is) at 1/2 the weight.

But it takes down from there and can be stashed in socks in the pack.
 
I have struggled with the concept of having at the ready a firearm while I bowhunt (a legal practice). Politics and legalities aside, for all practical purposes while I hunt, I am a backpacker. I hunt on foot. There is ONE overriding factor that has been my constant obstacle:

The weight of ANY gun. I travel light, but with a daypack crammed with mostly hard gear, some shelter and survival items, food, and WATER. (If you've ever carried water on your back you know why it is capitalized here.)

On bowhunts where I believe I may need an alternate weapon, in Alaska it was a .357 or .41 Revolver. WAY too much weight. No usage to sweat ratio was favorable.

Best yet is a Contender, factory (slim octagon) barrel, slim (Phantom or Lobo) optic. .357 or (more recently) .256 Winchester Magnum.
Light weight. Minute of Grapefruit at 100 yards. Shove it in the pack and forget about it.

Operational, its the size of a medium-large handgun (which it is) at 1/2 the weight.

But it takes down from there and can be stashed in socks in the pack.
Weight is an issue for me too. I can't walk very far due to heart/lung condition and my back, but weight has always been an issue, even when I could get around fine. I have a .44 mag S&W 329PD, a S&W Airweight .22 and the Pack Rifle as aux firearms.
 
I recently built my own 10/22 TD from a Brownells receiver, a Ruger BX-Trigger, a TacSol barrel with a sight rail on the barrel (no zero issues), and a Magpul stock. It is slick! Very little of it is actually Ruger.
 
Something else to consider....

Not all 'breakdown' rifles are necessarily intended to be broken down routinely and on some should be done only when necessary and carefully. For example the Marlin Golden 39A (and many other breakdowns) have their separation function at the receiver and they were very carefully fitted to ensure a tight fit up and smooth appearance when assembled. This fitment will not remain this way if they are broken down and reassembled regularly.

Other styles of breakdowns are designed with the barrel separating from the receiver where the design will allow for much more separation and reattachment as there is minimal metal to metal contact at the separation point. A good example is my Ruger PCC where it appears it could be broken down and reassembled routinely with little to no wear ever experienced.

I recently had the opportunity to handle an old Savage pump .22 breakdown rifle and the receiver separation point was quite loose and it did not function well.
 
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Don't do that without replacing the pins with Tandemkross upgrades. And a nylon bolt buffer too.
Losing ruger assembly pins is inevitable in the best of circumstances.

The issue there is you have to be extra careful not to lose the bolt stop and FCG pins.
Y'know, these guys are right.

I forgot how easily 2 of the fcg pins like to fall out of the 10/22 receiver.

I also forgot to mention the barrel clamp screw, which you have to loosen before "takedown."
Some people throw that thing away. I personally keep them and install "just-right" foam pads between clamp-barrel and between barrel-stock.
In the free-float universe, you are either are free or you aren't. My 10/22's are dang accurate with that little pad job.

Back to OP: I guess a true takedown gun should require no tools or risk of lost parts.

My son won an orange floating .22 survival rifle once. We messed with it a little before he sold it and put the cash towards something real.

Over the years, I discovered than G17's are crazy accurate at 100yards with the right load.
I have two other brand 9mm full-frames that are close to the Glock, with the right load.

Probably the best bet in normal field conditions is to have a big rifle,
and in other field conditions where a small package is required,
maybe a 5" 9mm auto is the ticket.
Unless you have bears and no bear spray, then get something that starts with 4.

I think that's my parting thought for this thread:
I feel like if I have to, I can probably hit just about anything with a G17 that I can hit with .22 survival gun, if i can rest the pistol on something, and if I already did my homework so I know where to aim.

2 cents.
 

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