Adding weight to stock

HotRodGuy · Nov 16, 2022

Today, I picked up a Ruger American Ranch in 5.56. Went over it and found a few things I need to fix/upgrade. One of which is the stock and overall weight.
It is very nose heavy. I want to add some weight to the back end. After removing the butt pad, I found the stock to be completely hollow. What I am thinking is bedding a couple pieces of PVC into the stock so I can adjust weight to find the best combination using shot and sand.
I am wondering if anyone has done something like this, and what did you use as bedding material?
I could use 2 part epoxy, or something else. I thought about bondo, but I don't think it would flow well to fill the void completely. Another option I thought about was anchoring cement. We used it when I was working as a masons assistance and I know it held well against heavy vibration and shock while flowing very well when mixed.

Pepe-lepew · Nov 17, 2022

No experience here, but some ideas. I have only packed heavy junk or lead with paper in target rifles where maximum weight is preferred. I see guys using spray foams to fill hollow stocks. The AR 15 A2 stock is filled with dense foam and we shove lead weight in the tool compartment. Might consider filling the stock with foam then cutting out some to fit your weights. When the proper weight is found, epoxy the weight to the foam to permanently secure it.

To balance and minimize added weight, be sure to place the weight as close to the butt stock as possible.

HotRodGuy · Nov 18, 2022

Pepe-lepew said:
No experience here, but some ideas. I have only packed heavy junk or lead with paper in target rifles where maximum weight is preferred. I see guys using spray foams to fill hollow stocks. The AR 15 A2 stock is filled with dense foam and we shove lead weight in the tool compartment. Might consider filling the stock with foam then cutting out some to fit your weights. When the proper weight is found, epoxy the weight to the foam to permanently secure it.

To balance and minimize added weight, be sure to place the weight as close to the butt stock as possible.

I have used the lead ingots in the A2 rear compartment before, haven't seen them in a long time.
My only concern with spray foam is how it handles confined/enclosed space. I have experienced time when using spray foam in confined spaces where it has either taken a long time to cure/not cured at all, or cured with large bubbles. Maybe a 2 part foam would work better and be more dense? I'll have to look into it.
I was thinking setting in pieces of pipe because that would allow me to make adjustments to the final weight more easily.
I'll probably make the pipes first and figure out how much weight it needs to get it comfortable for me, then figure out what kind of filler to use to set them in place.
I'll start by picking up a bag of shot, or maybe I'll talk to my company's mechanic and ask him to hold some wheel weights for me. I think I have some playground sand in storage that I can put on a cookie sheet to bake all the moisture out before use.

titsonritz · Nov 18, 2022

Put a real stock on it.

HotRodGuy · Nov 18, 2022

titsonritz said:
Put a real stock on it.

One day my friend, one day.
But, for now, I'll modify the plastic stock shaped thing it came with.

HotRodGuy · Nov 19, 2022

I ordered some 2 part silicone mold maker. I will use that along with some tubes inserted. Denser than spray foam and will give me a supported place to be able to put shot/sand to tune weight. I'll also be able to use the remainder to make molds for payload shells for my 37mm DD.

Member 34319 · Nov 19, 2022

Large thing of JB Weld. Stiffs it up and adds some weight.

HotRodGuy · Nov 19, 2022

I might do jb weld at the front, just ahead of where the receiver is bolted. That seems to be the only spot with real flex. There is some X bracing molded in, but it still has enough flexibility that the barrel has rub marks just from shipping and sitting on the shelf before it was purchased.

HotRodGuy · Nov 19, 2022

The silicone should be delivered around at the end of the month. I'll put up some pictures to show how I do it.

Unicykle · Nov 20, 2022

If I don't want to mess around with a bunch of mixing and measuring and I want to stick something to something else and not have it fail I use 3m marine grade 5200 caulking

HotRodGuy · Nov 20, 2022

The silicone won't stick like the marine caulking, but I am going to fill just above where the butt pad sits inside the stock this will give it a bit of compression.
The silicone I ordered is 1 to 1 mix. Before I mix it up, I will check the volume of the stock using water. That way, I will be able to mix exactly the right amount in one batch without waste.

Member 34319 · Nov 20, 2022

HotRodGuy said:
I might do jb weld at the front, just ahead of where the receiver is bolted. That seems to be the only spot with real flex. There is some X bracing molded in, but it still has enough flexibility that the barrel has rub marks just from shipping and sitting on the shelf before it was purchased.

Throw some lead fishing weights in those x braces and fill with JB weld. Rough up the plastic a bit with a dremel or drill bit to give the JB more hold.

flashpan · Nov 21, 2022

I have used a mixture if lead (shot or) with duct seal. Duct seal is the consistency of play dough and never gets hard so you can add or remove and it does not shift in the stock. a 1 lb brick is less than $10. Works slick. Good Luck

HotRodGuy · Dec 1, 2022

Still waiting for the silicone to get delivered. Hopefully it will be there next time I go into town.
Used some epoxy to fill the gaps in the forend. Ruger has it fairly well reinforced, but still has a little flex. Mainly did this to prevent anything from getting into the voids.
I made sure to plug the holes for the nuts in the event I decide to use them. Along with degreasing, I drilled holes through the bracing to join all the voids so the epoxy formed one piece rather than multiple smaller pieces. Using a soldering iron, I also made indentions on all the flat surfaces leaving the melted plastic in place for extra grip onto the epoxy. I used a dental pick to get the air bubbles out of all the holes.
As of right now, the barrel clears all the epoxy, but I will still profile the epoxy after I let it cure for a week (it's cold up here in the hills and I keep my trailer at about 55*, so cure time is extended compared to the 70*+ recommendation).
I was thinking that I might utilize the cartridge holder build into the butt pad and put rounds into the pad when I pour the silicon so it basically makes bullet molds. I'll just use turtle was as a release agent.

HotRodGuy · Dec 11, 2022

Use BBDINO 2 part silicone rubber and some .454 lead balls. The stocks center of balance went from the front of the trigger guard to the back of the grip. Feels much better to me now.
I did have to let the first fill set at a little bit of an angle to keep the balls at the bottom of the hollow in the stock rather than the front. So, this picture is with the top off fill. I also filled the butt pad hollow.
No more hollow plastic sound and it feels much better holding it up, the rifle isn't trying to lever itself forward.

Member 34319 · Dec 11, 2022

Love it when a project comes along smoothly.

HotRodGuy · Dec 12, 2022

Put the receiver back on the stock and it is butt heavy when set in my wall hanger, and is just barely heavier on the butt than I want. So, once I put the bipod back on and install the YHM Phantom brake and T2, I think it will be about as perfect as I can get it without buying an aftermarket stock.
After work, I'll put the bipod back on and get a picture showing the balance point.
I did use a piece of 3/4" PEX wrapped in 220 grit sand paper to give a radius to the epoxy I added to the front and also remove material from the inside edge of the stock to give more clearance to the barrel.