637 frame damage help perhaps a crack. Should I send it in?

[Kmcculloch92]

Hello everyone I joined the forum to ask for help with my PC S&W 637. It's pretty new(less then 2 months maybe 250 rounds) and I noticed a crack or rub Mark on the frame today right above the barrel where the cylinder locks up. I wasn't sure if this was just the finish or if it is something I need to send back to S&W. I took some photos hopefully u guys can see what I'm talking about.

Any advise on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

I use regular grade 38 special ammo.

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[JuglansRegia]

Looks like flame cutting mixing in with some fouling to me. Maybe try cleaning it up and post more pics.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

Definitely looks like flame cutting. Shooting lots of hot 125gr?

 

[Kmcculloch92]

I'm shooting 115 grain mostly.

 

[Red98422]

I also believe it to be flame cutting.

What caliber is this chambered in? 115 is typically 9mm territory

 

[Red98422]

Answered my own question. It's a 38 +p chambered gun.

There really isn't much you can do to avoid all flame cutting especially if your running lighter faster bullets. It is a product of the cylinder gap. Some say that switching to a heavier bullet can help ease this.

Usually it just finds a threshold and just stops getting any deeper.

 

[Kmcculloch92]

Is a 38special+p and I'm looking at my ammo right now. I'm kind of new to guns, here is photo of my ammo.

Is frame cutting normal? Will it stop? I just don't want my revolver to brake in my hand while I'm using it. It's my every day carry gun and I also like to use it at the range.

 

[JuglansRegia]

Well, alloy framed revolvers are made for everyday carry not lots of shooting. Maybe try contacting S&W directly to see what they feel is the life expectancy of one of their alloy J-frames shooting standard ammo.

 

[Red98422]

Yes, all of my wheel guns have it including the "fragile" model 19 and it's perfectly fine.

It will eventually find a depth where it's happy and stop getting deeper. Here is a picture of my model 19-3 P&R so over 40 years old and thousands of rounds downrange

 

[Kmcculloch92]

Thank you so much, my mind is now at ease. I just wanted to make sure it was a normal thing

 

[Red98422]

Honestly what I would look for in an alloy gun that's shot a lot as a failure point is head space issues. That would indicate your frame is stretching, or getting beat up from +p ammo. other than some other catastrophic failure you should be GTG.

Here is my Taurus 44mag in stainless. This one shows a very similar pattern to yours, I have absolute confidence in it.

Congratulations on your purchase! Buying and shooting guns can be quite addicting.

 

[Kmcculloch92]

Excellent, I will keep that in mind about the +p ammo stretching frames.

(Goggleing what head space is now)

Thanks

 

[Kmcculloch92]

Check Your Revolver's Headspace

By Reid Coffield Checking headspace on a revolver is easy and requires very little

www.shootingtimes.com

I thought this was helpful in learning what headspace was. Thanks again everyone who contributed, it's good to know there's still some honestly helpful people out there.

 

[drstrangelove]

Flame cutting is the realm of 125gr and under projectiles. Go with 147 WCs if you don't mind scraping lead, or 158 plated and quit damaging your topstrap.

 

[tkdguy]

Two opinion items: 1st If the gun is rated 38 + p I'd recommend standard 158 wadcutters for casual practice; maybe for carry 158 +p but standard velocity is what I would go with. 2nd The 637 is not a range gun; it is a lite casual carry gun and intended not for heavy range work. Added 3rd opinion: Would suggest not firing 125 grain or less for casual shooting. Just standard 38 special. I have 442 and shoot 38 special 158 standard and it smarts enough and 125 or less would be more wear and tear and more pain. If you want a range revolver gun then get steel.