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Well there you go. I've read the rifle primers take more force to set off. Even more so one the magnum primers as they have thicker cups.
About all I can say is that they have been working fine for me. I don't even own one of the Puddle Killers. I do own an AR-10 in .308 Winchester and so for it has NOT complained about the Magnum Primers. I have another .308 Winchester in a Remington 700TMR and it hasn't complained either. Both of My .308s are dressed up with Leupold 8.5-25X Scopes that have given me Excellent Service. My Ruger #3 in .45-70 Government is also not one to complain.
 
About all I can say is that they have been working fine for me. I don't even own one of the Puddle Killers. I do own an AR-10 in .308 Winchester and so for it has NOT complained about the Magnum Primers. I have another .308 Winchester in a Remington 700TMR and it hasn't complained either. Both of My .308s are dressed up with Leupold 8.5-25X Scopes that have given me Excellent Service. My Ruger #3 in .45-70 Government is also not one to complain.
Not doubting you or their use in a rifle. A pistol though I thought it might cause issues with light primer strikes. Never tried a magnum rifle primer in a pistol though so I can't comment from personal experience. Just trying to help him solve his problem.
 
Dang, I thought I made it clear. I use Magnum Pistol Primers in my Pistol Reloads. I don't use Standard Primers for any Reloading.

That's All I have to say.
 
Dizzy J. Here let me help, The 454 Casull case is made to use a Small Rifle Primer and all the load data reflects that. The 30 Carbine is the same way, it needs a Small Rifle Primer weather it's shot in a pistol or rifle. I don't know that the primer cups in any brand family like CCI small pistol Standard, Magnum, Match or whatever vary in hardness. Different brands yes are different. Yes rifle is different than pistol but if the cartridge in made for rifle primers then that's what the guns are made to set off.
 
Dizzy J. Here let me help, The 454 Casull case is made to use a Small Rifle Primer and all the load data reflects that. The 30 Carbine is the same way, it needs a Small Rifle Primer weather it's shot in a pistol or rifle. I don't know that the primer cups in any brand family like CCI small pistol Standard, Magnum, Match or whatever vary in hardness. Different brands yes are different. Yes rifle is different than pistol but if the cartridge in made for rifle primers then that's what the guns are made to set off.
That clears it up. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. Wasn't aware it was set up or designed to use rifle primers.
 
I do exactly this in my personal 357 target loads for my GP-100. I load a +P 38 special load in 357 cases. No powder ring and less bullet jump works for me.

I'm another one who does that. I don't like trying to clean out the carbon when shorter cases are fired in longer chambers. I use a fluffy powder to take up extra room in the .357 case. Low power lead bullet loads, about 775 fps. Don't think that I've ever fired a full power .357 load in my Model 66; many times in the Model 28.
 
When you do this there isn't enough back pressure to reseat the primer so the primer pushes out, the case dosen't move back to reseat it and that can cause the cylinder to lock up.
A little late - but I can confirm that's exactly what happened to me when only the primer went off without igniting the powder.
 
Again, zero problems with Unique. It seems 2400 and heavy 45 loads with any type of small primer rifle/pistol/magnum is problematic. My Speer lists 250/260 gr bullets with 18-20/16-18 grains of 2400. But with LARGE pistol primers.

To complete the story, before I pulled all the bullets, I thought maybe I can increase the pressure and get the powder ignite properly by crimping a little harder. So I re-crimped. I was thinking I, if that works I can shoot the bullets instead pf pulling them :). BAD IDEA. I got a hang-fire. Scariest thing EVER!!!! First a little pop when the primer went off, then 5s later the powder caught up and I got a taste of how it must have been in the old days with matchlock guns.
 
If I may suggest......
Use what the book/manual says to use. Including Powder, Primers and be mindful of the Bullets used. As for the particular case brands....for me not so much.

So then, if it were me...….
I'd be looking at switching Primers and maybe switching Powders. As for the cases.....it could just be a matter of powder positioning.

Try the experiment......
Muzzle up, bring it back to level and fire off a round.
Now try......
Muzzle down, bring it back to level and fire off a round.
If you're seeing a difference..... OMG! Now you've learned something.

That is...…..powder or powder positioning. So, maybe it time to switch powders? Or, it might be a matter to fill the case up more? Or, use a case with less capacity? Of course, be mindful of the manual's recommendations.

As for the Primer. Maybe just try it with a PISTOL primer. Mindful that your manual might be recommending a Magnum Pistol Primer with some of their loads/powders. So....follow the manual.

The cases......if you're just wanting "less umph". Why use the 454 cases? The residual. OMG! So anyway...… Why not? Just pick up some 45 Colt cases and load accordingly.

For liability sakes......I'll say, FOLLOW YOUR MANUAL

Aloha, Mark

PS.....I've heard of incidents of storing primers w/ dessicant. Where it actually "dried out" the primers too much. Well, that's what was reported anyway.

BTW.....YES, primers vary brand vs. brand. And, their meaning of the word, Magnum, can vary too. Not to mention, construction and chemical variations etc....

Read more on the subject of primers here: Primers, the Sparkplug of Centerfire Cartridges

Also take note of what the article says about proper seating of your primers.
 
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