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You can still use a roll crimp die to seat non cannelured bullets, however it requires adjustment. Taper crimp doesn't seem to work terribly well on these two cartridges as bullet setback when used in a tubular magazine is a major issue (taper crimp doesn't provide enough mechanical strength to hold up to recoil). They are probably useful for jacketed bullets if fired in a revolver, but most of these have a crimp groove, and I would recommend staying with the roll crimp.
 
The major mfn of dies will usually make their dies with the "proper crimp" built in. Of course you have to adjust it correctly. So as mentioned above, that would mean that revolver rounds get a roll crimp and auto pistol rounds will get a taper crimp.

But, there is also finesse involved (in the correct amount of adjustment). Getting that perfect COAL and crimp at the same time. Use of a "factory crimp die" has helped some folks. Anyway, be aware because, some folks have been known to over taper crimp so that it looks like a roll crimp. And/Or, under crimp a roll crimp so that it looks like a taper crimp.

I'll just say to crimp it "good enough" so that the bullet doesn't move when it's chambering (moving from the mag into the chamber). Also, make sure that the bullet doesn't move from recoil forces, while it's waiting it's turn to be fired.

Take caution because, over crimping can also lead to troubles with "over pressure situations."

Aloha, Mark
 
The major mfn of dies will usually make their dies with the "proper crimp" built in. Of course you have to adjust it correctly. So as mentioned above, that would mean that revolver rounds get a roll crimp and auto pistol rounds will get a taper crimp.

But, there is also finesse involved (in the correct amount of adjustment). Getting that perfect COAL and crimp at the same time. Use of a "factory crimp die" has helped some folks. Anyway, be aware because, some folks have been known to over taper crimp so that it looks like a roll crimp. And/Or, under crimp a roll crimp so that it looks like a taper crimp.

I'll just say to crimp it "good enough" so that the bullet doesn't move when it's chambering (moving from the mag into the chamber). Also, make sure that the bullet doesn't move from recoil forces, while it's waiting it's turn to be fired.

Take caution because, over crimping can also lead to troubles with "over pressure situations."

Aloha, Mark

According to Richard Lee, based on some testing he did, heavy crimps don't add as much pressure as the various "legends" claim. In some cases a heavy crimp is very much desired, especially for powders that are hard to light off. The heavy crimp insures that the powder is ignited in the proper manner before the bullet starts to move. Bad ju-ju when bullet and wad of powder start to move down the barrel and then have that wad ignite.

When it comes to crimping, the best contribution to the reloading world is the Lee Factory Crimp die. This collet type die makes crimping not just easier, but far more consistent. I don't even consider crimping with a seating die anymore. Even if using a single stge, it doesn't take much time at all to run a box of ammo through the crimp die. No more bulging cases because the crimp grabbed the bullet before it was fully seated.
 

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