45 colt and 38 special taper crimp dies

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by taylor, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. taylor

    taylor
    Willamette Valley
    Well-Known Member

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    I found some new Redding dies for a few bucks each and bought them. Are they used for plated or jacketed bullets w/o a crimp groove?
     
  2. Throckmorton

    Throckmorton
    Florence,Ore ah gone
    Well-Known Member

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    correct,they can be used with smoothe sided bullets,or bullets with canelures..'ribbed' area'.
    Cast lead bullets with a crimp groove take a roll crimp..a different die.
     
  3. AMProducts

    AMProducts
    Maple Valley, WA
    Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer

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    You can still use a roll crimp die to seat non cannelured bullets, however it requires adjustment. Taper crimp doesn't seem to work terribly well on these two cartridges as bullet setback when used in a tubular magazine is a major issue (taper crimp doesn't provide enough mechanical strength to hold up to recoil). They are probably useful for jacketed bullets if fired in a revolver, but most of these have a crimp groove, and I would recommend staying with the roll crimp.
     
  4. tahoe2

    tahoe2
    Seattle area, Washington state
    Member

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    I have always taper crimped auto rounds (9mm, 40s&w, 45acp), and roll crimped revolver rounds(357 mag, 41 mag, 45 Colt)
    never had any failures to feed or fire.
     
  5. ma96782

    ma96782
    Vancouver, WA
    Well-Known Member

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    The major mfn of dies will usually make their dies with the "proper crimp" built in. Of course you have to adjust it correctly. So as mentioned above, that would mean that revolver rounds get a roll crimp and auto pistol rounds will get a taper crimp.

    But, there is also finesse involved (in the correct amount of adjustment). Getting that perfect COAL and crimp at the same time. Use of a "factory crimp die" has helped some folks. Anyway, be aware because, some folks have been known to over taper crimp so that it looks like a roll crimp. And/Or, under crimp a roll crimp so that it looks like a taper crimp.

    I'll just say to crimp it "good enough" so that the bullet doesn't move when it's chambering (moving from the mag into the chamber). Also, make sure that the bullet doesn't move from recoil forces, while it's waiting it's turn to be fired.

    Take caution because, over crimping can also lead to troubles with "over pressure situations."

    Aloha, Mark
     
  6. deadshot2

    deadshot2
    NW Quadrant WA State
    Well-Known Member

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    According to Richard Lee, based on some testing he did, heavy crimps don't add as much pressure as the various "legends" claim. In some cases a heavy crimp is very much desired, especially for powders that are hard to light off. The heavy crimp insures that the powder is ignited in the proper manner before the bullet starts to move. Bad ju-ju when bullet and wad of powder start to move down the barrel and then have that wad ignite.

    When it comes to crimping, the best contribution to the reloading world is the Lee Factory Crimp die. This collet type die makes crimping not just easier, but far more consistent. I don't even consider crimping with a seating die anymore. Even if using a single stge, it doesn't take much time at all to run a box of ammo through the crimp die. No more bulging cases because the crimp grabbed the bullet before it was fully seated.
     

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