.45-70 lever - mods, muzzle brake?

[filsonhand]

I have owned/shot a number of ported/comp'd handguns - mostly magnums.

IMO the most effective for recoil reduction is this kind:

View attachment 324137

For muzzle rise, I prefer the "hybrid" comp which is a series of holes in the top of the barrel:

View attachment 324138

I once had two G21s, one with this kind of comp and one without. Everybody who shot both could immediately tell the difference in muzzle rise. That said, everybody on the range could also immediately know which gun I was shooting by the significant increase in sound. This was back when Glocks were mostly 9mm and some would come over asking what cartridge I was shooting - think this was some new magnum Glock.

In general, my take on porting and comps is that the larger the port the more gas can go through it, making it more effective. The further down the barrel the more leverage it had on the barrel for muzzle rise. Notice the hybrid comp ports above increase in size towards the end of the barrel.

Most Magnaporting I have seen on handguns are small longitudinal ports on top of the barrel - this may be somewhat effective for muzzle rise but much less effective for recoil.

If I understand the physics of what is happening correctly, the gases need to be somewhat directed to the rear to be effective for recoil and/or have some forward surface to push against.

I was skeptical about magnaporting until I fired the 329 PD with magna porting, WOW what a huge difference in rise and felt recoil


Velzey

I'm so tempted to put one if those brakes on my 1895 GBL

 

[The Heretic]

Yeah - I definitely need to do something about my 329PD

 

[Velzey]

Only times i've had issues with breaks having holes on the bottom, is when i'm prone shooting. I usually don't shoot my 45-70 prone, but I understand not wanting them.

My go to break for large calibers these days is the Holland. I used the first pic of radial break just to show a short thread, and it works when the mag tube goes almost to the end of the barrel.


This is an example how well the Holland quick discharge breaks work. This is on a .338 Win Mag. Older gent thought he had to get rid of his favorite elk rifle because of arthritis in his shoulder.
Well recoil was reduced to that of a .243 or such.

 

[Walton Feep]

I do intend to add optics to it - a pistol scope mounted forward in the Scout Scope configuration, which - at 13 ounces - will more than make up for any weight I remove from the rifle itself. I don't want to end up with a 10 pound carbine - I would like to keep it at 8 pounds or lighter.

I have a Burris Scout on mine. I do like it.

 

[The Heretic]

If you are looking for an octagon barrel, the marlin 1895 CBA is an 18" octagon barrel with 6 shot tube. It kicks quite a but more than my 1895 GBL due to the lighter weight, but it is a beautiful piece.

I did not know such a rifle was made.

All the octagon barrel .45-70 Marlins I have seen, and what they advertise on their site, are 24" barrels.

But looking on guns america they have a number of them with an octagon barrel at 18" - none are stainless though. I strongly prefer stainless anymore, although I will want to have it coated or otherwise darkened. Having spent years on the coast and my whole life in the Pacific Northwet I prefer stainless or otherwise corrosion resistant metals that I take out into the woods.

 

[The Heretic]

Only times i've had issues with breaks having holes on the bottom, is when i'm prone shooting. I usually don't shoot my 45-70 prone, but I understand not wanting them.

My go to break for large calibers these days is the Holland. I used the first pic of radial break just to show a short thread, and it works when the mag tube goes almost to the end of the barrel.
View attachment 324151

This is an example how well the Holland quick discharge breaks work. This is on a .338 Win Mag. Older gent thought he had to get rid of his favorite elk rifle because of arthritis in his shoulder.
Well recoil was reduced to that of a .243 or such.

Older gent - check

Screwed up shoulder - check

Like the Holland style brake - check

Check in the mail - check ;-)

I will ping you - I got busy this summer but things are quieting down and I need you to do a number of things for my firearms.

 

[The Heretic]

How dare you start a thread about such a great gun and not post pics!

.30-30 on top
.45-70 on bottom

 

[thorborg]

I had a magna-port added to my BFR 45-70 revolver in hopes it would allow me to comfortably use up a stash of 405 gr lead I had acquired.
The device exceeded my expectations. it installs and removes, very easily. They did a good job machining wise.
My maximum hand load in 405 now recoils similarly to my medium to light load 300 gr. so can now shoot a couple dozen screaming 405's in one session with no angst or 2nd day grief.
Cannot speak to the tread length needed though.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Thank you

I assume that is probably some kind of internal thread. That would work, except I would prefer not to have any ports on the underside.

Then it'll have to be longer to do the same work.

 

[Big Fish]

Was given a marlin 336 35 Rem in bad shape, both pieces of wood were broken and looked like someone took #40 sand paper to it thinking they were going to re blue it. The mechanics were tight and beautiful rifling so didnt toss it. It was beyond bringing it back to original tho. Got sick of looking at it in my closet for about 10 yrs. The scope was just a spare I tossed on it, still need a scout scope for it and probably wont keep the bipod on it for other than shooting at the gun range. I got a kick out of putting this "truck" gun together its ready for the zombie invasion.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Was given a marlin 336 35 Rem in bad shape, both pieces of wood were broken and looked like someone took #40 sand paper to it thinking they were going to re blue it. The mechanics were tight and beautiful rifling so didnt toss it. It was beyond bringing it back to original tho. Got sick of looking at it in my closet for about 10 yrs. The scope was just a spare I tossed on it, still need a scout scope for it and probably wont keep the bipod on it for other than shooting at the gun range. I got a kick out of putting this "truck" gun together its ready for the zombie invasion. View attachment 324678 View attachment 324678 View attachment 324679

Dude, that's actually bad arse! Who woulda thunk it, a tacticool Lever Action and it actually works! I think I just had a Joygasim!

 

[The Heretic]

I have been toying with the idea of spraying plasti-dip on a wood stock. Just not sure if I could peel it off later as most of my wood stocks don't have a heavy varnish/poly/etc. layer on them and I am afraid the spray would attach enough to the grain of the wood to never peel off completely.

I sure wish Hogue would make stocks for lever actions buy they don't seem willing.

 

[41mag]

Long a fan of the 45-70, my favorite variety of rifle was the 1885 High Wall Winchester single shot. I'm poor enough to have enjoyed the modern version rather than the original collector specimens. I had a 'Browning Traditional Hunter' with all the features you mention except being stainless or a lever action.

The circa 1985ish Marlin had lots of features I liked, although it was rather pudgy to drag around the woods, and I didn't like the micro style rifling, as I prefer cast lead & home rolled recipes.

I'm casting about looking for a suitable lever model Marlin but haven't taken one home yet. Understand the geezer/gravity conundrum all too well, and while I prefer open traditional sights the reality of (yes, the travails of geezer-vision) strongly suggest some kind of optic a better choice.

The allure of the Holy Black and 405 g cast lead moving downrange makes my day worth the efforts for sure. Somehow the old single shot version calls more strongly to me. Even the trapdoor versions, yet ultimately it's the mystic nature of the 45-70 relating to solving the complex ballistic relationship for wind/gravity/distance/rain/sweat/toil/ELK MEAT!!! that sings the sweetest song...

Good luck on your project. hope you find a solution to the issues you pose.

 

[mjbskwim]

The houge overmold stock is one of my most hated things in the gun world.

 

[The Heretic]

The houge overmold stock is one of my most hated things in the gun world.

To each their own. Having spent most of my life in the Pacific NorthWet and four years of that on the coast, I am a big fan of rubber like grips and stocks - they have always worked well for me.

I like wood too, but for practicality I like the "grippyness" of something covered in a rubber like material. I have it on most of my knives and handguns. I have sprayed the handles of some of my tools with plasti-dip and found that to my liking too.

YMMV

 

[Ura-Ki]

To each their own. Having spent most of my life in the Pacific NorthWet and four years of that on the coast, I am a big fan of rubber like grips and stocks - they have always worked well for me.

I like wood too, but for practicality I like the "grippyness" of something covered in a rubber like material. I have it on most of my knives and handguns. I have sprayed the handles of some of my tools with plasti-dip and found that to my liking too.

YMMV

I tried something like that on a wood stock, and it didn't grab the wood even after sanding the finish! It would peal off every where it came in contact with me! Maybe it was the coating, I don't know, but it didn't work for me! Short of having a custom stock made, I called it quits on that rifle, and went with another!

 

[The Heretic]

I have a thin coat on a hatchet handle and no problems with it coming off so far and I use that hatchet a lot. The handle is just too slick without it.

But the stocks I have are nice enough that I want to be able to peel it off later.

I have some surplus rifles I could try it on that I don't care if it would peel off later or not.