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Greetings,
One of the members here wanted me to share my method of how to do this.
The backstory: I have enjoyed .410 as a novelty/small game and garden type gun in the past but always found the ammo to be excessively priced for the performance. I have a few sporting friends who are into .410 and they began loading shotshells on a MEC. I kind of got the bug, bought a cheap .410 and decided to try to load them using tools I had about.
There are some Youtube videos and threads out there on how to do this, but I thought I'd share my method as I had some success after some trial and error.
It is far easier to use commercially manufactured .410 brass but at the time I started this project that brass had not been available in over a year. I see it it now back in stock but its about $1.25/piece.
Step 1: Secure some boxer primed .303 brass
Step 2: Anneal the cases about 2/3 of the way down. I used an appropriate sized socket in the end of a cordless drill, rotating the cases in the flame of an LP torch and dropping them in a bucket of water. Check Youtube for other redneck annealing methods.
Step 3: Prime with large pistol primers.
Step 4: Charge with 8 grains of Bullseye
Step 5: tamp 1/2 of a cotton ball over the powder with a dowel
Step 6: Full cases with old walnut tumbling media
Step 7: Plug cases with wax or lube. I used muzzle loading bullet lube. This is just to keep the media in the case.
Step 8: Chamber and fire the case straight up in the air. Any angle may impart an off center bulge in the case.
Repeat steps 1-8 as needed or start making some light shot loads, the cases will iron out pretty quick with a few loadings.
I had some success partially resizing lubed cases with a 7.7 JAP die, stopping before the shoulder of the die (which can also be used for a slight crimp if needed). I also ended up buyng a set of 7/8 dies for .410 brass hulls when they became available but I have found you don't need either if they are all going through the same gun.
Depending on your gun, the .303 rim may be too thick to chamber. If so remove material from the front of the rim (keeping your primer pocket depth consistent). A lathe is the best option for this and luckily a buddy has one and pounded them out quick for me.
These will make for some serviceable, cost effective hulls for the paltry jobs .410 is called upon for.
And, dropping those full length brass shells into the chamber is just darn cool!
If I had one of the .410 revolvers this would be a must.
Load development is on you!
Enjoy.
One of the members here wanted me to share my method of how to do this.
The backstory: I have enjoyed .410 as a novelty/small game and garden type gun in the past but always found the ammo to be excessively priced for the performance. I have a few sporting friends who are into .410 and they began loading shotshells on a MEC. I kind of got the bug, bought a cheap .410 and decided to try to load them using tools I had about.
There are some Youtube videos and threads out there on how to do this, but I thought I'd share my method as I had some success after some trial and error.
It is far easier to use commercially manufactured .410 brass but at the time I started this project that brass had not been available in over a year. I see it it now back in stock but its about $1.25/piece.
Step 1: Secure some boxer primed .303 brass
Step 2: Anneal the cases about 2/3 of the way down. I used an appropriate sized socket in the end of a cordless drill, rotating the cases in the flame of an LP torch and dropping them in a bucket of water. Check Youtube for other redneck annealing methods.
Step 3: Prime with large pistol primers.
Step 4: Charge with 8 grains of Bullseye
Step 5: tamp 1/2 of a cotton ball over the powder with a dowel
Step 6: Full cases with old walnut tumbling media
Step 7: Plug cases with wax or lube. I used muzzle loading bullet lube. This is just to keep the media in the case.
Step 8: Chamber and fire the case straight up in the air. Any angle may impart an off center bulge in the case.
Repeat steps 1-8 as needed or start making some light shot loads, the cases will iron out pretty quick with a few loadings.
I had some success partially resizing lubed cases with a 7.7 JAP die, stopping before the shoulder of the die (which can also be used for a slight crimp if needed). I also ended up buyng a set of 7/8 dies for .410 brass hulls when they became available but I have found you don't need either if they are all going through the same gun.
Depending on your gun, the .303 rim may be too thick to chamber. If so remove material from the front of the rim (keeping your primer pocket depth consistent). A lathe is the best option for this and luckily a buddy has one and pounded them out quick for me.
These will make for some serviceable, cost effective hulls for the paltry jobs .410 is called upon for.
And, dropping those full length brass shells into the chamber is just darn cool!
If I had one of the .410 revolvers this would be a must.
Load development is on you!
Enjoy.
