3D printing / manufacturing resources

[TTSX]

Have any of you tried printing in polycarbonate or reinforced nylon? Both are stronger than PLA+ and I'd be much more interested in making parts from those materials. A lot of plastic crap is way too expensive to buy for my guns and if rather just have a home factory if feasible. Trigger shoes, mag catches, sights and the like

 

[Nosferatu]

Have any of you tried printing in polycarbonate or reinforced nylon? Both are stronger than PLA+ and I'd be much more interested in making parts from those materials. A lot of plastic crap is way too expensive to buy for my guns and if rather just have a home factory if feasible. Trigger shoes, mag catches, sights and the like

Yes, but I'm not sure if there are any consumer devices or materials available, I've not looked into it in a long time.

Nylon would eat away at most brass nozzles, and even softer steel. I'd imagine a hardened steel nozzle would be necessary.

 

[TTSX]

Yes, but I'm not sure if there are any consumer devices or materials available, I've not looked into it in a long time.

Nylon would eat away at most brass nozzles, and even softer steel. I'd imagine a hardened steel nozzle would be necessary.

Correct about the nozzle. There are several models on the consumer market set up specifically for nylon, one of which includes a HEPA filter. The equipment isn't the issue, at least today. I hear it can be a little tricky to keep the layers together

 

[Nosferatu]

Correct about the nozzle. There are several models on the consumer market set up specifically for nylon, one of which includes a HEPA filter. The equipment isn't the issue, at least today. I hear it can be a little tricky to keep the layers together

Gotcha, good to know about the hardware coming around. I might have to look into getting a new device someday. I've mostly found consumer "3d printers" (That stupid name gets under my skin for some reason!) useless for anything functional.

Nylon is very hydroscopic. Keeping your filament dry during storage is key. I'd imagine the machine manufacturers are making enclosed systems, but adding a dehumidifier to your shop might be necessary, especially in the PNW.

I've run a commercial machine, but that was in AZ several years ago before all this stuff became mainstream. Material and machine were kept in a temperature and humidity controlled enclosure in the building.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I have had mixed results using Carbon Reinforced Filament, some prints very nicely and makes stronger parts, othera do not! The biggest issue is with stringing, you almost have to stay with the print to avoid any, something that's nearly impossible to do given the time it takes some prints! Overall quality is generally good, but don't look for a clean surface or a show piece! With that said, experiment with the filaments to find the ones that work well, and if your looking for a good surface finish, lots of sanding and even filling will be needed, but you can make super strong parts which is the whole point!

 

[edzz]

5 months later.....ish...

I'm wondering if this is a great price?

Newest 4K LCD Resin 3d printer Voxelab Proxima 6.0 4K - Voxelab3dp

Voxelab Proxima 6.0 is a 4K high precision LCD Resin 3D printer in budget. Support VoxelPrint and CHITUBOX. Good for individual studios, garage KIT resin printing use.

www.voxelab3dp.com

@Ura-Ki ~~~~~~~~~~~. I do have to wonder; what 3d modeling program is really the most like Solid works 3D? Got a line on a relatively cheap large (1/32-1/36 scale) Vader TIE fighter model kit, as opposed to Bandai's tiny 1/72 scale kits... as lovely detailed as these are.... very rough sketch of what I'm visualizing for the wing panels

Don't know if this helps.

Solid works 3D printing

 

[It-That]

Don't know if this helps.

Solid works 3D printing

Unless you buy the very top of the line Dupont resins, resin printers with common material isnt feasible for stuff like Glock frames

 

[It-That]

Gotcha, good to know about the hardware coming around. I might have to look into getting a new device someday. I've mostly found consumer "3d printers" (That stupid name gets under my skin for some reason!) useless for anything functional.

Nylon is very hydroscopic. Keeping your filament dry during storage is key. I'd imagine the machine manufacturers are making enclosed systems, but adding a dehumidifier to your shop might be necessary, especially in the PNW.

I've run a commercial machine, but that was in AZ several years ago before all this stuff became mainstream. Material and machine were kept in a temperature and humidity controlled enclosure in the building.

Absorbing water from the air during use isn't the issue as much as during storage. The absorbed moisture boils when the extruder heats it and creates bubbles and layer non-adhesion. My solution is gamma seal 5-7gal buckets with color changing desiccant to extend the self life AND as an indicator of exposure if I'm between prints for long periods on a specific spool. Typically for critical parts, I just use a fresh spool to ensure I don't run into issues; the cost is worth the peace of mind. (For pistol frames etc.) If I pull a spool for storage and my desiccant indicates it's absorbed water, I heat it in an oven at the lowest temp for 4 hours. I use protoplasta brand for two reasons: made in WA, and cardboard spools that can be put in the oven. I also put the desiccant in with it to indicate when it's evaporated the moisture.

The moisture absorbs much easier into the desiccant and is more resistant to drying out of it, so it's my plastics "coal mine canary."

Also, it will absorb after it's printed, but it's been found to marginally make glass or carbon fused disposition prints marginally less brittle and doesn't affect the strength. I also scale the z axis .9% up and salt anneal my prints for heat resistance. I use popcorn salt flour I bought in bulk on nuts.com for that process.

 

[JGSFAB]

I'd like to add a printer brand that doesn't get much attention - Qidi. I bought my X-plus from Amazon 2020. Right out of the box I was printing carbonfiber PC and lowers that fit besides reaming a few holes. Last well I bought one of the new core xy models and I'm impressed! 8hr part done in 3hrs.
They use dual z Axis screws, linear rails and common direct drive hotends (the new ones are dual gear). I've printed tons of functional parts and ready to upgrade to the new CoreXY cf rod machines.

 

[JGSFAB]

And my first large print.

 

[It-That]

I'd like to add a printer brand that doesn't get much attention - Qidi. I bought my X-plus from Amazon 2020. Right out of the box I was printing carbonfiber PC and lowers that fit besides reaming a few holes. Last well I bought one of the new core xy models and I'm impressed! 8hr part done in 3hrs.
They use dual z Axis screws, linear rails and common direct drive hotends (the new ones are dual gear). I've printed tons of functional parts and ready to upgrade to the new CoreXY cf rod machines.

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That looks real neat man. How much did you pay for that

 

[JGSFAB]

The X-smart3 is on special for $450