38 spl primer question for beginner

[Dwesson]

Drop what you are doing and go get a collet style Lee Factory Crimp Die.

You will never have to deal with the case length issue common to roll crimping

If you are getting a bulge on the bottom I am not sure that's from crimping, it could also be a function of the plate or shell holder that pushes the shell into the die. Most don't allow the case to fully enter the die. If you're using brass between revolvers and finding that after resizing it will fit in one and not another an undersized die will fix it. EGW makes one:

Undersize Reloading Die, .38 Special

Fits all reloading presses that accept 7/8 x 14 dies. If the die is installed on a Dillon, you may want to put the lock ring underneath the tool head to secure the die.

www.egwguns.com

 

[Mikej]

If you are getting a bulge on the bottom I am not sure that's from crimping, it could also be a function of the plate or shell holder that pushes the shell into the die. Most don't allow the case to fully enter the die. If you're using brass between revolvers and finding that after resizing it will fit in one and not another an undersized die will fix it. EGW makes one:

Undersize Reloading Die, .38 Special

Fits all reloading presses that accept 7/8 x 14 dies. If the die is installed on a Dillon, you may want to put the lock ring underneath the tool head to secure the die.

www.egwguns.com

When I started loading .38sp I was having issues that were probably a combination of having a bit too much crimp, (noobs don't realize how much leverage there is on the Rock Chucker press) ( But OP is using that hand thingy press so ?),

and cases that were different length, to the tune of .010"-.015" +/- maybe more. My cases would, I call it fold, just below the bullet. I cured it by trimming the, used, brass all close to the same length. Bulging at the base? The web is at the base. .38 sp brass is long which makes it somewhat delicate.

Am I making sense? I am to me, but I seem to have a problem getting points across.

 

[Dwesson]

When I started loading .38sp I was having issues that were probably a combination of having a bit too much crimp, (noobs don't realize how much leverage there is on the Rock Chucker press) ( But OP is using that hand thingy press so ?),
View attachment 656571
and cases that were different length, to the tune of .010"-.015" +/- maybe more. My cases would, I call it fold, just below the bullet. I cured it by trimming the, used, brass all close to the same length. Bulging at the base? The web is at the base. .38 sp brass is long which makes it somewhat delicate.

Am I making sense? I am to me, but I seem to have a problem getting points across.

Ah yes I think I understand, I have seen that from trying to apply too much of a roll crimp before.

I admit most of the 38/357 I load up are plated bullets without a cannelure so I usually just put a small taper crimp on to ensure enough neck tension to avoid moving under recoil and that it loads correctly.

When the OP mentioned the "bulge at the bottom" I thought maybe he was referring to what this fella was observing (NOTE do NOT do what he did in this video LOL)

 

[Mikej]

When the OP mentioned the "bulge at the bottom" I thought maybe he was referring to what this fella was observing (NOTE do NOT do what he did in this video LOL)

I've only been at this reloading thing just short of nine years, but that looked a little wild to me. At least I realize that my loading bench, that looks pretty sloppy to some times, isn't so bad! Now the work bench in the garage? Sometimes.....

 

[awshoot]

I've only been at this reloading thing just short of nine years, but that looked a little wild to me. At least I realize that my loading bench, that looks pretty sloppy to some times, isn't so bad! Now the work bench in the garage? Sometimes.....

Yeah, his bench makes mine look like Martha Stewart maintains it.

 

[Certaindeaf]

When I started loading .38sp I was having issues that were probably a combination of having a bit too much crimp, (noobs don't realize how much leverage there is on the Rock Chucker press) ( But OP is using that hand thingy press so ?),
View attachment 656571
and cases that were different length, to the tune of .010"-.015" +/- maybe more. My cases would, I call it fold, just below the bullet. I cured it by trimming the, used, brass all close to the same length. Bulging at the base? The web is at the base. .38 sp brass is long which makes it somewhat delicate.

Am I making sense? I am to me, but I seem to have a problem getting points across.

Ah, I though he was using the classic loader since he was using a drill press.

 

[Mikej]

Ah, I though he was using the classic loader since he was using a drill press.

Ah yep.

 

[ageingstudent]

Ah yes I think I understand, I have seen that from trying to apply too much of a roll crimp before.

I admit most of the 38/357 I load up are plated bullets without a cannelure so I usually just put a small taper crimp on to ensure enough neck tension to avoid moving under recoil and that it loads correctly.

When the OP mentioned the "bulge at the bottom" I thought maybe he was referring to what this fella was observing (NOTE do NOT do what he did in this video LOL)

He must have some incredibly loose chambers or his steel sizing die is worn out. I've never cracked a carbide die on a brass case what the heck is he talking about? I don't see where the case gauge helps in this instance if the cartridge fits in the gun. Why bother? If he fires that brass in the loose chambers again it will just swell right back up or even worse burst down there by the web. Any bozo with a camera these days I guess.

 

[Mikej]

Ah, I though he was using the classic loader since he was using a drill press.

Thinking more about this.
THIS...

Should not be sold as a starting point for first time reloaders. Seems like it would be difficult to get a good "Feel" for what the different steps in reloading feel like. Seems more like something appropriate for your bug-out SHTF bag? But I've never used or seen one in person. I may be all wet.

 

[DizzyJ]

Ah yes I think I understand, I have seen that from trying to apply too much of a roll crimp before.

I admit most of the 38/357 I load up are plated bullets without a cannelure so I usually just put a small taper crimp on to ensure enough neck tension to avoid moving under recoil and that it loads correctly.

When the OP mentioned the "bulge at the bottom" I thought maybe he was referring to what this fella was observing (NOTE do NOT do what he did in this video LOL)

Wut the...

 

[Dwesson]

Wut the...

Are you saying you wouldn't let him work on your car?

 

[DizzyJ]

Are you saying you wouldn't let him work on your car?

Something like that.

 

[Knebel]

Stepped up my game and got a Lee Classic Turret press Kit from the Wife. Waiting for the charging die to put the auto drum powder dropper on it but so far I'm loving the thing!

Cranked out 200 already and prepped 600cases with new primers and resized and such. Incredible how smooth that goes! I'm impressed and can just recommend the thing!

 

[Certaindeaf]

Stepped up my game and got a Lee Classic Turret press Kit from the Wife. Waiting for the charging die to put the auto drum powder dropper on it but so far I'm loving the thing!

Cranked out 200 already and prepped 600cases with new primers and resized and such. Incredible how smooth that goes! I'm impressed and can just recommend the thing!

Great press, keep er lubed up. There's a little square plastic auto index doodad that can break if you try to reverse ram stroke within a certain small range. They don't really wear out but it's nice to have a couple spares..

Lee Precision, Inc.. Classic Turret Press Parts

90064

leeprecision.com

 

[Knebel]

Another Primer question. I get some light strikes on the winchester primers and then have to shoot them single action to have them go bang. Is there a softer primer that would require less force to be ignited?

 

[Certaindeaf]

Another Primer question. I get some light strikes on the winchester primers and then have to shoot them single action to have them go bang. Is there a softer primer that would require less force to be ignited?

Screw that, your gun is messed up.

 

[Dwesson]

Another Primer question. I get some light strikes on the winchester primers and then have to shoot them single action to have them go bang. Is there a softer primer that would require less force to be ignited?

If this is in your new Colt, send it back, that's unacceptable for a new firearm. if this is in your snubby you might need to replace some springs as they have worn.

While primer cup hardness differs between manufacturers, I don't know that Winchester cups are particularly hard. You can try CCI/Federal as they typically have softer cups (except for the specific military NATO spec primers which are harder on purpose to prevent slam fires).

 

[DizzyJ]

Winchester has some of the softest cups out there. I'd be having the gun looked at.

 

[Mikej]

If this is in your new Colt, send it back, that's unacceptable for a new firearm. if this is in your snubby you might need to replace some springs as they have worn.

While primer cup hardness differs between manufacturers, I don't know that Winchester cups are particularly hard. You can try CCI/Federal as they typically have softer cups (except for the specific military NATO spec primers which are harder on purpose to prevent slam fires).

What's the history of the gun?

Another thing to consider is did a previous owner was go for a lighter trigger and wasn't really qualified to change springs and mess around in the inner workings of the gun.

 

[Knebel]

Its the new Colt. Weird enough, It starts happening after it gets a little dirty. I know the old pythons were prone to do this too. It only happens in DA. Weird enough, when I first got it, I shot 200rds no problem!

edit. I might have been an Idiot and got too much oil in the firing pin Enough to have carbon slow it down probably!?