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I'd be thinking......probably over pressure. Rrrrright......or weak brass or the gun's cylinder/chambers.

Either way.....
Assuming that there are other choices.....
If it were me.....
I would not be using that brand of ammo (or that particular offering) again.

But then.....
Isn't that why.....
We are told to practice with our intended SD loads?

Aloha, Mark

PS.....IF it's your revolver's fault. Well.....let's see how the customer/warrantee service is.
It wasn't the revolver. As I mentioned earlier, the Buffalo Bore was the only ammo to do it, and it was loaded very hot. That's likely the reason.
 
I've never had them that stuck but some of my
Hotter handless will end up pretty tight in my sp101. Usually it's worse if it hasn't been cleaned in a awhile and if I had shot a lot of 38s in it.
Yeah, this stuff is super hot. Never had any .38 shot through since I owned it, and I made sure those cylinder bores were cleaned thoroughly after I bought it. The Buffalo bore is definitely the culprit.
 
I remember having that problem in .357 and .44 mag revolvers way back in the day, when I was learning to reload and pushed the limits a bit too far.

I've always been a bit wary of these hot-loaded boutique manufacturers like Buffalo Bore. My son and I occasionally pick up brass at the range, and once in a while find Buffalo Bore brass. I look it over very closely and often throw it away. I loaded some 10mm a while back using range pick up brass, and the Buffalo Bore brass all had loose primer pockets. It's not that it's bad quality brass. I think it's just loaded way too hot.
 
I remember having that problem in .357 and .44 mag revolvers way back in the day, when I was learning to reload and pushed the limits a bit too far.

I've always been a bit wary of these hot-loaded boutique manufacturers like Buffalo Bore. My son and I occasionally pick up brass at the range, and once in a while find Buffalo Bore brass. I look it over very closely and often throw it away. I loaded some 10mm a while back using range pick up brass, and the Buffalo Bore brass all had loose primer pockets. It's not that it's bad quality brass. I think it's just loaded way too hot.
Frankly, I only bought it because it was the only .357 ammo I could find at the time. Within a week or two of buying it another member here contacted me letting me know of a good deal on some and I purchased, and have been shooting, that ammo.
I had kind of forgotten about it and had begun to consider it for carry ammo. That prompted today's range trip and brought us this conversation.
 
Wooden dowel.

What's concerning is the case was hot enough to slam back against the frame and expand in that little gap causing a stuck situation.

Sounds way too hot. How's your hands?
 
Wooden dowel.

What's concerning is the case was hot enough to slam back against the frame and expand in that little gap causing a stuck situation.

Sounds way too hot. How's your hands?
They're good.
Im not sure what you mean. The cases had expanded just above the rim, inside of the cylinder. The expansion didn't happen outside of the cylinder. They did expand enough to take up the small amount of space in the cylinder that allows them to move at all.
 
A buddy of mine had a 454 that did that - needed the chambers cleaned and polished to make it stop. If the loads are at the higher end, it doesn't take much. But then the 454 runs at extreme pressures for a pistol. That's reportedly why it requires rifle primers.
 
I have had this happen in my SP101 with TulAmmo, so I quit shooting it in that. I probably did a "no-no" and briskly slapped the ejector rod with the bottom of my palm. Come to think of it, this happens all the time in my Dad's High Standard revolver and I do the same.

PS; I have shot hundreds of rounds of both 38spl and .357mag and only had extraction issues with 38spl steel case ammo. Although others may have had an issue that may have been caused by the use of both 38spl and.357mag, I have not experienced this dilemma.
 
I remember checking out Buffalo Bore a few years ago and noting that some of their ammo exceeded SAAMI specs for the guns I intended to use. I don't think all of it did though. People really seem to like their hard cast stuff for the bigger, thicker critters.
 
Sounds like you have ruled out a carry load to me. What Buffalo bore loading was it?
Yea, it's good to know. Test your carry ammo. There's a case where a guy stopped a charging griz with a light, big-bore revolver and the gun was found to be inoperable due to bullet jump after the fact.
 
They claim that load is safe in all revolver's and only caution using in super light frame models as bullet jump from recoil may jam them. I would drop them a line to see what they say.

Did you buy revolver new, is it possible someone before you shot some .38 spcl through it before you owned it? Also, maybe get a magnifying glass out and closely inspect cylinder bores for tooling marks.
 
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They claim that load is safe in all revolver's and only caution using in super light frame models as bullet jump from recoil may jam them. I would drop them a line to see what they say.

Did you buy revolver new, is it possible someone before you shot some .38 spcl through it before you owned it? Also, maybe get a magnifying glass out and closely inspect cylinder bores for tooling marks.
As mentioned earlier, revolver was purchased used, but cleaned thoroughly and with diligence, including specific attention to the cylinder bores for the specific issue of coked up cylinders. It has not had .38 fired in it since I have owned it, and it was apparent to me that this particular firearm had made it through maybe a complete box of whatever they fired through it before it was sold. It was very new. The Buffalo Bore was the only ammo fired yesterday that had this issue. If I hadn't thrown out the casings, I would post pics of where the casings had visible expansion marks. My guess is either a) the rounds are just a bit too hot for the brass or b) the cases weren't properly or fully annealed. Probably a combo of both.
 
I'm sure this has been discussed. It happened to me. Fixes?
Best guess is to remove cylinder and crane, separate the two of possible, and tap out with a dowel? Remove with pliers if I can get a grip on the rim?
Experiences? Advice?
Were the primers extruded or flattened?
Would love to see some close up pics.
Sounds like serious over pressure.
Best,
Gary
 

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