.300 WM Recipe's

[grandpaknowall]

Why re-invent the wheel?

I have a Remington 700 .300WM 5R Gen II. with a Vortex Gen II Viper. Bix & Andy 2 stage trigger.

Just took it out today, after glass bedding the HS stock. I totally eliminated the flyers I was having, so I'm happy about that. However, I'm still producing 2 MOA groups. I want better. I hope to shortcut load development time by asking members for there input with this caliber.
No, it's not the shooter - I have other rifles I have bedded, and after load development, went from 3 MOA to 1/2 MOA.

Thank You

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[grandpaknowall]

Thanks for the underwhelming input. However - I removed the muzzle brake I had on it and am now sub-MOA! cool.

 

[3MTA3]

Johnny's Reloading Bench just started working up loads for the 300 WM:

 

[3MTA3]

I removed the muzzle brake I had on it and am now sub-MOA! cool.

Has to be something wrong with that brake - it shouldn't cause much,if any, loss of accuracy.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

I agree with 3MTA3 on the brake. Was it factory threaded or did someone else do it? I've had good luck with IMR 4350 and just about any 180 gr pill when loading for the 300wm. Regarding your brake. Are you going to find a new one or chop the barrel and recrown? Whoever did the threading may not have threaded it concentric to the bore or kept it perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the bore. If you are out a little tiny bit axially or radially, it could cause accuracy problems...

 

[grandpaknowall]

I agree with 3MTA3 on the brake. Was it factory threaded or did someone else do it? I've had good luck with IMR 4350 and just about any 180 gr pill when loading for the 300wm. Regarding your brake. Are you going to find a new one or chop the barrel and recrown? Whoever did the threading may not have threaded it concentric to the bore or kept it perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the bore. If you are out a little tiny bit axially or radially, it could cause accuracy problems...

Thanks for the input. The Gen II 5R is a quality rifle - it is threaded at the factory and shipped with a thread protector. I installed a "Tank style Brake" with a crush washer. I paid about $50 for the brake. Logic dictates that the problem was the brake.

With your thoughtful input, I'm leaning toward a poorly manufactured brake. My bad for buying it. I certainly did not scrimp on any of the other components. And today, with the brake removed and the thread protector installed - I was shooting very impressive groups. No trouble punching holes through the center of dimes @100yards.

I will post pictures soon of the rifle and targets so members can learn from my calamity.

Thank you for the useful advice. This beast is capable of a lot of recoil, and I think I might try a better quality brake in the future. But for today, I am thrilled with the current setup/results.

 

[grandpaknowall]

Has to be something wrong with that brake - it shouldn't cause much,if any, loss of accuracy.

This is information I needed to know. The brakes on my AR's have no noticeable effect my accuracy. Other than that, I do not have experience with brakes, other than knowing they remove a lot of recoil. Thanks for the input.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Thanks for the input. The Gen II 5R is a quality rifle - it is threaded at the factory and shipped with a thread protector. I installed a "Tank style Brake" with a crush washer. I paid about $50 for the brake. Logic dictates that the problem was the brake.

With your thoughtful input, I'm leaning toward a poorly manufactured brake. My bad for buying it. I certainly did not scrimp on any of the other components. And today, with the brake removed and the thread protector installed - I was shooting very impressive groups. No trouble punching holes through the center of dimes @100yards.

I will post pictures soon of the rifle and targets so members can learn from my calamity.

Thank you for the useful advice. This beast is capable of a lot of recoil, and I think I might try a better quality brake in the future. But for today, I am thrilled with the current setup/results.

Sounds awesome man. Glad it was an easy fix and you solved it. I used to hunt with only 1 rifle and it was a left handed Ruger m77 300wm. It hammered on both ends . With that rifle, I shot Hornady 165's, 180gr. partitions, 200gr accubonds and 200gr. partitions. I ran the 200's at 2,900 fps and they were a hammer. I always used IMR4350. It was exceptionally accurate and I got good velocities out of it. There are newer better powders now days, but If I were going to load for the 300wm again, I'd have no problems going right back to IMR4350 or maybe trying a more temp stable powder, such as H4350. If you get a good load manual or look up load data online, you should find a good starting point and work up from there. Good luck finding a good load. Sounds like it will be pretty easy though, as it seems to be a great shooter already.