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Do any of you have a recommendation for a muzzle brake for this 30-06? The barrel will need to be threaded unless I get one of those clamp-on brakes. I don't really have a preference - just want the most recoil reduction I can get.


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I have this Grizzly Gunworks brake on my .308, and like it. The redirector does increase the felt recoil a little, but is worth having for those times when someone is beside me. I might just go ahead and get another one of these.

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What are you hunting/shooting? Lighter bullet/lighter recoil loads might accomplish what you are seeking.

I understand.

Shooting anything that has much recoil is problematic for me these days. Muzzle brakes, lighter loads, padded stocks, and a thickly padded coat are all ways I can protect my shoulder while still allowing me to shoot a hard-hitting gun.

Someday, I'll have to put the thumpers into the safe. But not today. Today I'm looking for recommendations of muzzle brakes.
 
You want a brake that will really tame that. Make it recoil like a 22-250. Allot of barrels I thread I also install the Holland Quick Discharge brake.
Recoil reduction is downright impressive.

This is on a lightweight Tikka t3 in 300 win mag

 
Loose that boat paddle stock while your at it, that should help tame the kick as well!
I haven't tried one out yet, but @No_Regerts has a few nice and light stocks he runs that would do a good job keeping things nice and light while also taming the thump to the shoulder! :s0155:
As far as break's go, I have had good results in the past with the Bubba Brake 3 and 4 port on hard kickers, but I would trust Velzey's recommendation of the Holland, and that vid he posted should convince any one that it's a good system!
 
It's amazing how much difference in felt recoil a stock makes. I have a Winchester model 70 .300 Win Mag that originally came with a synthetic stock. It was downright painful to shoot. I happened to have another wood stock lying around that fit on it. That and a Decelerator recoil pad tamed it down very well, made a huge difference.

I can also vouch for the Holland brakes. I have them on a couple different rifles, and they work well. I have the older style, but I'm familiar with the newer ones as well. I have a 30-06 with a Holland brake on it, and my 13yo son shot a dozen rounds through it a couple days ago. He's very small for his age, so that's saying something.
 
Loose that boat paddle stock while your at it, that should help tame the kick as well!
I haven't tried one out yet, but @No_Regerts has a few nice and light stocks he runs that would do a good job keeping things nice and light while also taming the thump to the shoulder! :s0155:
As far as break's go, I have had good results in the past with the Bubba Brake 3 and 4 port on hard kickers, but I would trust Velzey's recommendation of the Holland, and that vid he posted should convince any one that it's a good system!

I'd sell that boat paddle Ruger! They are worth good money now.

If you wanna keep it, there are other stock options. I use McMillan stocks quite a bit, but they are spendy and don't offer ultralight options for Rugers. There wouldn't be a weight savings, but perceived recoil would be less.
 
Do any of you have a recommendation for a muzzle brake for this 30-06? The barrel will need to be threaded unless I get one of those clamp-on brakes. I don't really have a preference - just want the most recoil reduction I can get.


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I wouldn't brake an '06, but I would do as others mentioned and dump that Zytel stock! (keep it, they are fairly valuable)
A Hogue pillar bedded stock with it's fantastic buttpad will make it feel like the gun recoils with about half of the energy compared to that boat paddle monstrosity. I've bought a few from Optics Planet thru Ebay and they are less than $150.

This rifle hasn't worn it's Zytel stock since it was about 3 months old.
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With this one in 375 Ruger, the reduction in recoil compared to the nice wood stock with decent pad was even more significant.
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Might want to check this out: .30 Caliber Muzzle Brake Shootout - The Truth About Guns. I used the top rated brake from this test on my 6.5 Grendel, made a HUGE difference in recoil, but the ports angle back a little, which resulted in a disconcerting backwash of air with every shot. Worth noting that that's with a 20" barrel, when we tried it on my friend's new Creedmoor with 24" barrel, it wasn't nearly as noticeable. Switched over to a VG6 Gamma, not as effective in recoil reduction, but no more air bath. Good luck!
 
The other thing you will need to check is muzzle diameter of your barrel. Wouldn't surprise me at all if the muzzle diameter is too small to thread it to a normal 5/8-24.

My favorite muzzle brakes are the Area 419 Hellfire and the APA Lil' Bastard. Very effective and self timing.
 
The other thing you will need to check is muzzle diameter of your barrel. Wouldn't surprise me at all if the muzzle diameter is too small to thread it to a normal 5/8-24.

My favorite muzzle brakes are the Area 419 Hellfire and the APA Lil' Bastard. Very effective and self timing.

You're right - the barrel is pretty narrow.

I'm thinking the brake needs to be a clamp-on style, and have an optional redirector/blast-forwarding attachment.
 
I'm sure you know this already, but from my experience, the most effective brakes are also the loudest. I'm not a big fan of brakes on hunting rifles, unless you know you'll be able to always put in earplugs before pulling the trigger. It doesn't take much to cause permanent hearing damage, with a muzzle brake. I always use ear plugs and ear muffs both, with mine.
 
I'm sure you know this already, but from my experience, the most effective brakes are also the loudest. I'm not a big fan of brakes on hunting rifles, unless you know you'll be able to always put in earplugs before pulling the trigger. It doesn't take much to cause permanent hearing damage, with a muzzle brake. I always use ear plugs and ear muffs both, with mine.

I like using the electronic earmuffs that pick up and amplify small sounds (like a deer walking through the woods) - then they muffle the sound of the shot. Depending on the gun, I might use ear plugs too.
 
I like using the electronic earmuffs that pick up and amplify small sounds (like a deer walking through the woods) - then they muffle the sound of the shot. Depending on the gun, I might use ear plugs too.
I have a pair of inexpensive electronic ear muffs. (They were Dad's and he was a titewad!) I've considered using them while hunting for their magnification, but haven't. Where I usually hunt it's kind of noisy and think that would be a distraction. I've also never heard the shot that killed an animal, but if I had to do a coup de grace I heard that and sure wouldn't want to do that using a braked rifle without ear protection.
I have one braked gun. I plan on taking the brake off just because I don't like the blast directed towards the shooter plus the amplification of the blast.
 
I am interested in this as well - we just inherited a couple Winchester Model 70's - one .30-06 and one 7mm Mag - the '06 will be my wife's (she says this was one of the guns she learned to shoot on) and her brother's 7mm is now mine. I don't mind the occasional thump, but having a gun I can shoot more than a couple times comfortably would be nice, especially for a gun I need some practice with, or that will become a hunting gun for me.

I have mentioned moving to Texas before - this is the year we're going to pull the trigger on it. Plan is to be a former Oregon resident by Thanksgiving/Christmas this year. Texas can have some pretty long range shots, so that 7mm will be nice. I think having a break on it would be nice in order to shoot it enough to become really proficient with it. If I can get it down to 22-250 levels of felt recoil, I'd be in heaven! The plan is to keep the guns stock, otherwise. These are old Winchesters - 1970's / early 80s vintage best we know. Nice wood stocks, jeweled bolts, they *had* rich blue finishes.
 

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