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The 357 is too much juice for the K frame. The early K frame. When the RHKP ordered their M10s in 357, they found they did shoot loose quickly, but being Briits, it took them a while to find out. S&W beefed up the K over the years and basically perfected the K in the 19/66. They can take a steady diet of heavy bullet 357. It wasn't until 110gr 357 loads started being carried by police agencies that problems started cropping up. Top strap cutting and forcing cone erosion is a possibility, but only with those 110s and many rounds. Modern bullet design has obviated the need for 110s in a service or defense roll.
 
The K frame Smith was designed for .38sp. It was beefed up a little to make .357s. Those were early days for .357 mag, and the original assumption was that people would usually do most of their practice with .38sp. As people became used to .357 mag, many started using it exclusively, including for practice. In addition, heavier bullets such as the 180 flat nise hardcast were also added for hunting game where deep penetration was needed such as with bear or hogs and for black bear self-defense. The K frame revolvers would wear out when owned by someone who shot thousands of rounds per week or month, such as for competition or silhouette shooting, and used all full loads and loads with heavy bullets. Most people don't shoot enough to wear out a K frame .357, even if they shoot exclusively with 357 mag. If you are buying a used K frame 357, check for signs of heavy use or damage by checking for sharp vs worn edges in lands and grooves in barrel, cracked or damaged forcing cone, and tight vs loose lock up.

In response to the fact that K frame revolvers did not hold up forever under a heavy diet of .357 mag loads, SW added the L frame revolvers, which are heavier throughout than the K frame revolvers as well as are underlugged, making the gun much heavier as well as changing the balance to muzzle heavy. These became the top of the line in SW 357s. These are so heavy that even the snubby 586 or 686 is pleasant to shoot with full .357 mag loads. Some people stick with the K frame .357s because they are lighter than the L frames or because they don't like the muzzle heavy balance or because they just plan to use them as 38s. My EDC, "Buddy" is a 2.5" 686. He weighs 36 oz empty. That's more than many would want to carry as an EDC, but I find the weight comforting. And I could actually deer hunt with Buddy if I needed to. And did use him as flock protector back when I had a duck flock.

If you shoot both .38sp and 357 mag in one shooting session, shoot the .357 mag first. The shorter 38 sp cases leave rings of spent powder in the cylinder chambers that can cause 357 cases to stick if the 38s are fired first. Then after the shooting session, use a brash brush and solvent to scrub cylinder chambers. If you reload your own ammo or have it replaced for you , you can load both your 38sp loads and your .357 loads in .357 mag cases so as to avoid the problem. This also means you only need to deal with one kind of brass.
 
That was a statement, not a question. Because 357 is too much juice for the k-frame, it gets beat to hell. Yes you can shoot 38 out of 357 but if you have a 357 you'll shoot 357 out of it and if doing most of the shooting with 38 then you get carbon ring and 357 sticks like crazy. The k-frame in 38spl are good shooters and will last for along time with heavy shooting, 357s not so much. If I'm going to have a 357 I want a gun that was designed to handle it rather than one that was retrofit for it.
Makes sense. Thanks for the reply.
 
My Ruger GP100 Match Champion mod 1754 is my EDC, very good shooter and is built like a tank.

DSCF5764.jpg
 
okay I kind of went away from my criteria, its not 3 to 4 inches, but I think I got a good deal. I stopped by my favorite gun shop, And walk up to the revolvers and saw what I thought was a Smith 44mag then I looked at the tag and it said 357mag, I asked, is that a model 27? He replied no its a model 28, I looked at it boy was it nice but alittle to expensive, I put it back down, then he said we just got one model 28 6" in today it still has the 30 day waiting period but he showed it to me anyways its been re blued not an issue lock up was tight pined and recessed looks great all for 550.00 so I said put my name on it, its mine can't wait to go sling some lead.
 
okay I kind of went away from my criteria, its not 3 to 4 inches, but I think I got a good deal. I stopped by my favorite gun shop, And walk up to the revolvers and saw what I thought was a Smith 44mag then I looked at the tag and it said 357mag, I asked, is that a model 27? He replied no its a model 28, I looked at it boy was it nice but alittle to expensive, I put it back down, then he said we just got one model 28 6" in today it still has the 30 day waiting period but he showed it to me anyways its been re blued not an issue lock up was tight pined and recessed looks great all for 550.00 so I said put my name on it, its mine can't wait to go sling some lead.
Those S&W mod 28 N frames are very nice.
 
okay I kind of went away from my criteria, its not 3 to 4 inches, but I think I got a good deal. I stopped by my favorite gun shop, And walk up to the revolvers and saw what I thought was a Smith 44mag then I looked at the tag and it said 357mag, I asked, is that a model 27? He replied no its a model 28, I looked at it boy was it nice but alittle to expensive, I put it back down, then he said we just got one model 28 6" in today it still has the 30 day waiting period but he showed it to me anyways its been re blued not an issue lock up was tight pined and recessed looks great all for 550.00 so I said put my name on it, its mine can't wait to go sling some lead.
How are the grips?
 
Those aren't really hard plastic, they are a rubber over-mold on a hard plastic skeleton and you can get them in wood.
https://www.hogueinc.com/grips/grips-for-smith-wesson/n-frame-revolvers/squarebutt/exotic-hardwoods
They do have the look of regular hogue OverMolded ( which I have a few examples of as well) ,even down to the pebble grain . However, they are hard plastic. Hogue offers this material in some models of rifle stocks also.
It hurts my pride to look at the ugliness, but function won over fashion this time.
 
okay so I have my name on the Smith 28 6" and its a good gun at a good price but just doesn't fit what I am looking for. Today I went to a pawn shop I go to and they had a Ruger gp 100 2-3/4" 7 shot talo edition with the green fiber optic front sight and adjustable rear it just came in so they won't budge on the price, I tried, its 749.00 I can afford it barely but it fits what I want and it seems to fit better than what I remember the GPS in the past what do you guys think thanks
 
okay so I have my name on the Smith 28 6" and its a good gun at a good price but just doesn't fit what I am looking for. Today I went to a pawn shop I go to and they had a Ruger gp 100 2-3/4" 7 shot talo edition with the green fiber optic front sight and adjustable rear it just came in so they won't budge on the price, I tried, its 749.00 I can afford it barely but it fits what I want and it seems to fit better than what I remember the GPS in the past what do you guys think thanks
Where's the model 28 , and how much was it?
 
Its at a gun shop I go to in Spokane wa. and it is 550.00 plus tax but it is still waiting to clear its 30 days before it can come out on the floor the reason it is that price is because its been re blued
 
My 6" Highway Patrolman is a big gun. I had a 4" barrel fitted to it and it felt much better in the hand (balance). I had the 6" put back on since it was given to me by my Grandpop. A 4" N frame tapered barrel gun looks and feels great. Still a big gun, but much handier. Here is a pic when I had it as a 4" compared to a K frame 2" model 15.

45259529-9C7C-44E8-BAFF-3EB95F9F1DB9.jpeg
 
okay so I have my name on the Smith 28 6" and its a good gun at a good price but just doesn't fit what I am looking for. Today I went to a pawn shop I go to and they had a Ruger gp 100 2-3/4" 7 shot talo edition with the green fiber optic front sight and adjustable rear it just came in so they won't budge on the price, I tried, its 749.00 I can afford it barely but it fits what I want and it seems to fit better than what I remember the GPS in the past what do you guys think thanks
IMO Ruger GP100 is a fine weapon, It'll last a lifetime even with abuse...
S&W for Me is a better fit in the K frame and it for Me has a bit classier look...
All said and done they will both do what they are intended for and what you want to buy it for...

$750 ish isn't terrible considering our current climate, you might find one "maybe" $50 to $75 cheaper...
When I'm making this decision I consider will the difference make that big of deal to me financially and if I wait then go back will I care if it's gone...
If the $50 or $75 is going to hurt me I probably shouldn't be buying it anyway...
 

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