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I looked at Brownell's foil, kind of spendy, and it takes something like 1,250 Deg. F to flow.
I'm not sure that you could reach that temp with a butane/ propane torch, depending of course on the thickness and size of the steel pieces.

I guess I'd try the JB weld first, and if it came apart, and the pieces were not deformed, I'd then sand blast it and find someone with an oxy acetylene outfit, and try the silver braze next...
 
I have brazed 1-1/8" copper refrigeration piping with a hand-held MAPP gas torch before using 15% "silvaloy/silfos". I've never attempted 56%+ silver alloy, though.

You can buy a complete MC tank sized oxy/acetylene torch kit at Harbor Frieght for around >$300 (that's a stellar price) and then you'd at least be set for a multitude of subsequent projects. ;)


http://m.harborfreight.com/portable...s-65818.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided
 
I attempted some silver solder last night. Im sure my lack of experience and technique play a part but I could only get the solder to penetrate between the pieces about 1 mm on the edge. Once cooled I could pull them a part by hand. I was just using some lead free silver solder for plumbing with flux just to test it out. It does not say the silver % though. Not sure if I want to reattempt after scratching up the surfaces more.

The good thing is it all cleans up nicely and lets me learn as I go.
 
Lead free silver bearing solder is usually about 96% tin and 4% silver IIRC.
We use Stay-Brite, with the liquid flux here at work.
You might also try "tinning" the surfaces first, then putting them together and reheating.
 
Im getting it slowly tacked together with little bits of solder to see how it all fits. so far so good. I can actually get a magazine to fit into it easily

Looks like I'll need to drill holes for the detent pins and springs for the takedown pins and safety. Anyone know the drill size needed for these holes by chance?

also need the size and thread pitch for the bolt for the grip.

There is no place to put buffer tube detent I dont think. Its too thin of area to drill a hole. Can an AR run without one? Might make taking apart more difficult.
 
There is no place to put buffer tube detent I dont think. Its too thin of area to drill a hole. Can an AR run without one?

If you mean the buffer retainer, yeah, that's not strictly necessary. The downside of not having it is the buffer will sproing out of the tube every time you unpin the lower from the upper.
 
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Yep. I have also seen the ends of the take down pins threaded to accept a retaining screw, same I would think would work for the safety.

As far as your hole sizes there has to be drawings and prints floating around online
 
Looks like I'll need to drill holes for the detent pins and springs for the takedown pins and safety. Anyone know the drill size needed for these holes by chance?

also need the size and thread pitch for the bolt for the grip.

* Takedown detent holes are 3/32".
* Safe/fire detent hole is 1/8". Also, the first 3/16" depth of this hole is usually drilled out to 5/32".
* Grip bolt hole is drilled 7/32" and tapped 1/4-28.
 
This is my progress so far. Im going to have to drill and thread the hole for the grip screw before I go any further so I'll be waiting for a tap to arrive.

MMRDIMa.jpg
 
nevermind. I found a tap/bolt combo in my garage that works. slightly off center with the hole but nothing a quick modification of the grip wont fix

8l9bE2x.jpg

Off to print a few hundred recall signature forms now.
 
From this day forward we shall call you.... Dr. Badass!! :D


So pray tell, are you soldering? Welding? JB Welding? How're you holding all that together? How much does that puppy weigh compared to a forged aluminum lower?

One of these sized for .308/AR10 would be pretty nifty, too!
 

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