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My dad has had this gun since it was new. 1970-71 right around there. M77 with the 24 inch barrel. Its always been a tack driver till recently. Last time he shot it was at 460 yards and it was 4 feet this way and 2 feet that way 3 feet low a foot high... All over the frickin place.

Yesterday I shot it at 200 yards to see if it was gonna duplicate symptoms and it did. So I gave it the dollar bill test and it slid between the stock and barrel up to the chamber. While doing this I noticed the barrel was touching the scope. Its always been close but not touching. It appears that the barrel is bulged at the chamber area (Sadness overcomes me at this point) .. Is this the end of this gun or can I have it rebarrelled? How much would something like that cost?

I can feel just the slightest difference in the shape of the barrel on each side. I think it should be uniform. Am I wrong in this assumption?

Also what the heck would cause this sort of damage? All its ever had shot through it is factory loads. Remington 120 grain for deer and antelope and occasional plinking...

Thanks a bunch, Brandon
 
I would make sure the scope hasn't moved on you and it just appears the barrel has a problem. I haven't had a rifle rebarreled so my WAG would be 300-400 bucks including the barrel. Maybe cheaper if you can find a factory barrel. Cause could be many things like an obstruction in the barrel or misloaded ammo. Do you shoot factory or handloads.
 
I would make sure the scope hasn't moved on you and it just appears the barrel has a problem. I haven't had a rifle rebarreled so my WAG would be 300-400 bucks including the barrel. Maybe cheaper if you can find a factory barrel. Cause could be many things like an obstruction in the barrel or misloaded ammo. Do you shoot factory or handloads.

This gun has only had factory loads thru it. I was looking at the stock and it appears the barrel was made thicker in that spot and the stock was obviously made to fit. but I can feel a little weird spot on there... Im gonna pull it apart, remount the scope and check the stock for rub marks and see if it comes around. Hopefully its just needing a tune up..
 
Sound like the scope.

Had that happen to a .340WBY. Didn't move far, but it did move and I was lucky if I could hit a barn with it. Re-set the scope and now back to sub-MOA with it.
If still doubt the barrel have it looked at!
 
While the scope is off of it and it's out of the stock, get after that barrel with some copper remover/scrubber. Keep using it until the patch stops turning blue-green.
Then grab some JB bore paste, or other manual barrel polisher.
If the barrel is bulged internally, you will be able to feel the variance in effort when pushing the rod down the bore.

And if you don't have a bore guide, get one before you start.
Good luck, many of those old Rugers had Douglas barrels and are well worth every effort to save them.
 
I am agreement with the others, the scope moved.

To go from tack driver to 16" something happened, scope took a hit and moved, burr at the barrel. If only factory loads I highly doubt overpressure and barrel damage.
 
I had the same thing happen recently with a kit built CVA .243 Win. For several years it was a sub MOA shooter then started throwing them all over. Nothing had changed with the gun so I swapped out the scope to eliminate that as the problem but it WAS the problem. I only had a few rounds loaded the day I did this but bore sighting before testing put it on paper I had it zeroed quickly and now it is back to what it use to be.
 
My dad wants to do the work on it. Hes coming out to my house Thursday to tear it down and remount the scope then we are gonna hit the range and see how she does. I will give you all the up date Thurs night. Thanks again
 
While the scope is off of it and it's out of the stock, get after that barrel with some copper remover/scrubber. Keep using it until the patch stops turning blue-green.
Then grab some JB bore paste, or other manual barrel polisher.
If the barrel is bulged internally, you will be able to feel the variance in effort when pushing the rod down the bore.

And if you don't have a bore guide, get one before you start.
Good luck, many of those old Rugers had Douglas barrels and are well worth every effort to save them.

yep just keep rubbing it with that abrasive crap until the bore has no rifling left at all.

why get a bore guide? If it is cleaned properly from the breech end it is not needed. clean your bore electrically, no wear and even less effort, instructions are available from a number of sources.

You seem to be getting replies from those who believe any advertising bs they hear or listen too much to gun store wags who are percieved as knowledgable.

remount your scope using teflon tape between the rings and the scope body, make sure it is tightened evenly, bore sight it. check the bases too. go to the range.
 
Yeah I always clean breach first. I even made breech first cleaning holes on my 10/22's. Still waiting for my dad to come tear it apart. Its still his gun technically...lol. Ill post an update when we take it to the range next time.
 
We had a 243 that did the same thing the scope had come loose and moved just enough plus the copper fouling had it shooting all over the place, New better scope rings and some copper fouling remover and wham bam back on paper and printing tight in just a few rounds!
 
Just a thought, you might want to try one thing at a time like work with the scope go shoot it problem solved then you know it was the scope and if problem not fixed try different scope go shoot it cause times the guts if a scope go bad. My point is if you do three different things to it then go shoot it, which one thing fixed it.
But if you do one thing at a time until
Problem solved you know what fixed it so if it comes back you have a good starting point to try to fix it. I know this will take longer but sometimes Patience pays off.
 

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