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SGW,
Yes, the color case hardened frame was done by Turnbull. I smoothed, and radiused the edges. as well as fitting an OS base pin and chamfering the cylinder. gallagherfirearms.com did the action job and fit a 7 1/2" .357 Maximum barrel. Thanks for the Thought. A great project that took a year to complete.

357 Cover2 (Medium).JPG
 
Phred,

That is absolutely "STUNNING". I've been sorta sittin' on the fence on whether to have my .45 Colt Blackhawk done by them, and great pictures of how yours was done doesn't help either. :)
 
And for those who prefer to read the genuine, original language of this island, here is the same message in Welsh -

Yr wyf wedi cael saith .22 o led, ac yn eu glanhau'n ddi-oed.

Unwaith y flwyddyn, p'un a oes ei angen arnynt ai peidio.

Rwy'n gweld ei bod yn cymryd 20 - 30 o esgidiau i fynd yn ôl i'r man lle'r oeddent o'r blaen.

Efallai y bydd eich milltiroedd yn amrywio.

Am I the only one who pictured the Muppet of "The Swedish Chef", when I read this?

(I know, wrong country, but same diff.)

@oremike said: "...buy a rifle then a scope and have it installed and bore sighted." (emphasis mine)

Never.

I have found that with the proper tools... I can do a superior job than anyone else I would possibly trust. I have never seen the big box or local gunsmith guys go to this length. I once saw one use the "alignment tool", but never lapping of the rings, etc.

20210608-182425.jpg

20210608-182705.jpg

This is another example of just how anal I am.
 
View attachment 901644

This is another example of just how anal I am.
How about boring a .250" centered hole through both and using .250 drill rod to align? The slightest misalignment would not allow the drill rod to enter the other half, or it would begin to drag part way through the second "aligner."

I use Burris Pos-Align rings, or Tikka Opti-Lock. No ring marks with either.
 
Hey MrTwentyTwo,
Your scope alignment tools are NOT anal!
I have used the same method, and I've even followed that up with a honing tool I made. The bar is a 13 in. long cold rolled piece that I machined down on the end to fit my 1/2 in. drill gun. I use a fine machine compound to lap the caps which are not generally perpendicular. After this is done, there are no marks on a scope after removal because the clamping force is evenly distributed around the scope. Cheers.

Scope Ring Hone.jpg
 
Hey MrTwentyTwo,
Your scope alignment tools are NOT anal!
I have used the same method, and I've even followed that up with a honing tool I made. The bar is a 13 in. long cold rolled piece that I machined down on the end to fit my 1/2 in. drill gun. I use a fine machine compound to lap the caps which are not generally perpendicular. After this is done, there are no marks on a scope after removal because the clamping force is evenly distributed around the scope. Cheers.

View attachment 901768
1974 called, they want their Weaver rings back.....
 
Hey MrTwentyTwo,
Your scope alignment tools are NOT anal!
I have used the same method, and I've even followed that up with a honing tool I made. The bar is a 13 in. long cold rolled piece that I machined down on the end to fit my 1/2 in. drill gun. I use a fine machine compound to lap the caps which are not generally perpendicular. After this is done, there are no marks on a scope after removal because the clamping force is evenly distributed around the scope. Cheers.

View attachment 901768

Hey @Phred, that looks to be almost as heavy as the kit I show above! The kit has to be 30-35lbs or so, as those rods are solid steel and accommodate two sets of each, 1" and 30mm diameters!
 
Last Edited:
Am I the only one who pictured the Muppet of "The Swedish Chef", when I read this?

(I know, wrong country, but same diff.)



I have found that with the proper tools... I can do a superior job than anyone else I would possibly trust. I have never seen the big box or local gunsmith guys go to this length. I once saw one use the "alignment tool", but never lapping of the rings, etc.

View attachment 901643

View attachment 901644

This is another example of just how anal I am.
Ive always wanted the Sinclair/Brownells set. Thier stuff is usually worth the wait. Not a fan of wheelers stuff. And fix it sticks non adjustable torque wrenches are the optimal tools for these. (Btw the micro torque adjustable screwdriver brownells stocks is amazing as well used at boeing for aerospace and in surgery, never seen one but used to fix surgical instruments and its much nicer than most of that junk)
But I HAVE also been tempted to just order some precision rod from McMaster Carr and use that. Also bedding the scope with a little removable loctite never Hurts.

Gessewein probably makes the best lapping compounds out there. But the clover stuff works just fine as well. With bedding its actually better to have a little micro "tooth" to adhere to.
But totally agree 100% generally no one who is paid will take as much time and care to make sure its done correctly as you will. I've seen some butcheres crowns.
 
Last Edited:
Am I the only one who pictured the Muppet of "The Swedish Chef", when I read this?

(I know, wrong country, but same diff.)



I have found that with the proper tools... I can do a superior job than anyone else I would possibly trust. I have never seen the big box or local gunsmith guys go to this length. I once saw one use the "alignment tool", but never lapping of the rings, etc.

View attachment 901643

View attachment 901644

This is another example of just how anal I am.
Ok ill bite because I can't do a simple sighting in because nobody knowledgeable of it has shown me truly how. So does this method correct scope error? Or just helps balance it for installation? I'd give you a lot of excuses but every time I've tried getting a scope on and try to understand the sighting in process, I miss a crucial step or it isn't explained to me in a way I can understand on how it works.

Usually needs to be done this way in person and then likely I'll never need help with it again.
 
Another reminder that good stuff USED to be made back when, as well, with very few of the technical requisites we think of an necessary these days.

Another BSA old timer, this time from 1958, with and old Tasco T707 scope on top from sometime in the early 70's.

Five shots at 25m - YOU figure out how big/small that is.
1623246512924.png
This is me shooting it -
1623246787010.png
 
Ok ill bite because I can't do a simple sighting in because nobody knowledgeable of it has shown me truly how. So does this method correct scope error? Or just helps balance it for installation? I'd give you a lot of excuses but every time I've tried getting a scope on and try to understand the sighting in process, I miss a crucial step or it isn't explained to me in a way I can understand on how it works.

Usually needs to be done this way in person and then likely I'll never need help with it again.
The mega-important thing about scope mounting - NOT when sighting-in - is to ensure that the rings are aligned with each other. These days quality rings are made in one big lump, bored through and THEN split into two. One-piece scope mounts are pricey for good reason, and to me would be the way to go if I was staring over with a centrefire rifle of any seriousness. Being partial to Nightforce stuff, that's MY choice.

Sooooooooooooo, using an alignment tool makes sure that they are exactly aligned, as they were made, when fitted to your rifle. It also ensures that the scope body is not stressed by being force to fit in a mis-aligned set of rings.

So it does NOT correct scope error - it DOES ensure that the scope is correctly mounted on the base.

Rings come in a number of sizes - most American-made scopes. up until the middle-70's came in 3/4" [rimfire] and 1" [centre-fire] diameter, as these were the prevailing scope body diameters.

European and Japanese glass was mostly metric, although a lot of high-end stuff made for the English-speaking world was 1".

Nowadays we see 34mm as the basic diameter high-mag 'tactical'/long-range and sporting target norm.

The rings and the equipment to align them costs accordingly, as a look through the latest Sinclair catalog[ue] would show you.
 
As a follow-up to "breaking in" a barrel..... check out the article in Guns & Ammo magazine, July 2021, page 31. The article is written by Dave Emery. The article is about barrel care and breaking in a new barrel. He has worked in and has run a ballistics lab for 25 yrs. His research on "breaking in" a barrel is quite different from buying a few boxes of ammo and shooting a few hundred rounds of ammo to break in a new barrel. If you don't have a subscription to this magazine, it would be worth the trip to wally mart or fred meyer to read the article or purchase the magazine. Happy Shooting Guys and Gals!
 
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too late for me, I'm afraid. Even my newest .22 rifle was made in 1963.

1623250722852.png
It still shoots quite well, though. These are a selection of brands and types at 100m - all are ten-shot groups. Our big local GS has freebie days of .22 ammunition to encourage new buyers to use their merchandise, and for others to try another brand and type to see how they go in THEIR rifles.
1623250904707.png
Top - left to right - Eley Club. RWS Standard. SK Match. Remington match.

Bottom - left to right. Eley Tenex. Eley Match. RWS R50 and the last target, the last of the R50, but with just five shots.

As both the Eley Tenex and RWS R50 are way outside my price bracket, I know that if I'm ever in a competition then they are the way to go.

However, I'm happy right now with more affordable stuff that works well, like the Eley Match.

Before I rescued it from the scrap pile, this rifle had been used by the club since around 1970 or so, by untold numbers of shooters. The story of its acquisition by your's truly has been spoge here on a couple of occasions, so I won't belabour it again at the rest of boring you all f*rtless.

Suffice it to say that the hardwear store supplies I used to make it look like it does cost more than the rifle...
 
Ok ill bite because I can't do a simple sighting in because nobody knowledgeable of it has shown me truly how. So does this method correct scope error? Or just helps balance it for installation? I'd give you a lot of excuses but every time I've tried getting a scope on and try to understand the sighting in process, I miss a crucial step or it isn't explained to me in a way I can understand on how it works.

Usually needs to be done this way in person and then likely I'll never need help with it again.
Sighting in is easy if you can keep rifle perfectly steady and have a well lit target. Shoot one hole and do not move rifle at all. Adjust scope windage and elevation until cross hairs cover that hole. Shoot again to verify u are on target. Done.
 
Sighting in is easy if you can keep rifle perfectly steady and have a well lit target. Shoot one hole and do not move rifle at all. Adjust scope windage and elevation until cross hairs cover that hole. Shoot again to verify u are on target. Done.
Two shots fired and you're on target.

THIS is the way I've been doing it for me, and showing it to others, since the middle 1970s after we came back to UK from three years in Cyprus and I could start shooting again.
 

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