.223 reloads jamming

[bmgm37]

So if your reloading dies are all locked in, you've properly trimmed, and sized your brass what is the likelihood that you would have some rounds that would be no-go's?

On any press a die can loosen up and not be noticed. Loading on the Dillon 1050 at a rate of 800-1000 rnds an hour, the last thing I want to discover is a die loosened up after 100 rnds, it's never happened but I check a round every time I reload the primer feed just to make sure.

I also agree with Dutchy556, adjust the die down a little further to cam over the press. Adjusting the dies like the instructions say is not always perfect, just a starting point. I measured my .223 gage an the measurement between go and nogo is .006, not a lot of room for error. If you don't get a gage you might try sizing a case like you have been, then try clambering the empty case. If it does not chamber, then chances are the shoulder was not sized back correctly. If it does not chamber, try adjusting the die down in 1/8 turn increments, size a case and try to chamber it. If this does work, them pick up a gage to get it dialed in correctly. If it does chamber, then look for another problem.

 

[deadshot2]

At the risk of sounding rude do you have a reloading book? Have you read it? This is basic information that is covered in them and is critical information in reloading. If you dont have one it is where I suggest you start.

Easy now. Can't you remember back when you were a New Reloader? Bet you asked a lot of questions too

I'd rather see people feel like they're free to ask without being made to feel foolish. Better that than be too timid to ask and end up having a problem.

 

[Nwcid]

I agree, that is why I suggested a good reloading book. I have no problem answering questions at all, but a good book will do more then asking tons of questions here and getting tons of varied answers. Books are great for getting the basics down and that is their actual purpose. No matter the subject matter a good base is the best way to start.

It is not just new guys that have questions, everyone does.

 

[DukkButt]

Have two books, one from Lee and one from Hornady. And I agree that "do you have a reloading book" is a good question to ask

From everything I've read here and from reviews of reloading dies I've decided to try the small base reloading die. Bought an RCBS set today. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I'll report back on what happens.

Again, thank you all for sharing your information and experience. Much of what is involved in firearms can be intimidating to the newbie. Having people ready and willing to offer friendly advice makes a big difference.

 

[Kevatc]

On any press a die can loosen up and not be noticed. Loading on the Dillon 1050 at a rate of 800-1000 rnds an hour, the last thing I want to discover is a die loosened up after 100 rnds, it's never happened but I check a round every time I reload the primer feed just to make sure.

I also agree with Dutchy556, adjust the die down a little further to cam over the press. Adjusting the dies like the instructions say is not always perfect, just a starting point. I measured my .223 gage an the measurement between go and nogo is .006, not a lot of room for error. If you don't get a gage you might try sizing a case like you have been, then try clambering the empty case. If it does not chamber, then chances are the shoulder was not sized back correctly. If it does not chamber, try adjusting the die down in 1/8 turn increments, size a case and try to chamber it. If this does work, them pick up a gage to get it dialed in correctly. If it does chamber, then look for another problem.

Hmmm. Not sure if I have been playing with fire, been lucky, or what. I've been reloading and shooting 5.56 for 10 years now and not once (seriously) have I ever did a case gauge/headspace check. I make sure my cases are trimmed to length and if I have a concern about a piece of brass it goes into the recycle bin. Unless I have had a primer go in backasswards I have not had any failures to go bang. That said, I am going to buy a LE Wilson case gauge.

 

[2gr8dgs]

Have you tried any factory cartridges through the action since the problem began?

 

[speedtriple]

Make sure you are cleaning the inside of the neck with a brush. I like to do that BEFORE I size. You will get a more accurate sizing of the neck area, and less friction when you seat the bullet. If the inside of the case necks are dirty, you might have enough pressure to bulge the case where it necks down when you seat the bullet. That same bulge can happen when crimping. Also remember to only crimp on bullets that have the groove (called a Cannelure) cut in them for the crimp to press into.

 

[jonn5335]

Try a different shell holder I've never had one that was defective but I guess it could happen having a shell holder that is a little bit to tall could cause the base of the brass to be flared out/ not properly sized

 

[DukkButt]

Have tried factory cartridges since it started (just a few to check), no problem.

Cleaning the inside of the neck seems like a good suggestion. They have all been thoroughly tumbled, (many hours while I was away at work, or over night) so I don't think they would need extra cleaning but it wouldn't hurt to check a few. Did have the same problem with sized but not reloaded cases not allowing the bolt to close, or closing very tightly like the reloaded stuff. Also, I wasn't crimping my bullets when the problem started, but it's good to remind everyone about the cannelure for crimping.

Never thought of the possibility of the shell holder being the problem, but I see how that could happen. Since it is only a few (maybe 10% of recent reloads) that are doing it, it seems unlikely that is it in this case. Will keep that in mind for the future though.

 

[speedtriple]

Tumbling has not cleaned the inside of the neck on my brass much at all. So take a good look at that.

If you are having problems closing the bolt on a sized but not loaded shell, I would guess you are not sizing it far enough down.
Hornady Headspace Gauge - YouTube
This link will show you how to gage the length of the case from the base to the bottle neck. You can compare your sized brass to new factory ammo, or to a fired piece of brass from your rifle.

 

[deadshot2]

If one sizes the case until the die touches the shell holder and the finished round won't fully chamber there are really only two possible problems. The case has been bulged due to improper crimp or the chamber is full of crap in the shoulder area and the new cartridge kept from fully entering.

AR-15 chambers aren't all that tight unless someone found a match throated barrel, possibly a Wylde chambered weapon. The condition the OP has reported was #1 among the complaints about the new M-16 when it was first introduced. Some nimrod in DOD thought it was "Self Cleaning" and that couldn't be farther from the truth. This was an additional reason the forward assist was added in the M16A1.

Again, get a chamber brush, use it, and see if the problem continues. Even cases that fit a case gauge will still still jam. I wouldn't go looking for complicated solutions until the simple ones are explored.

 

[Spitpatch]

I'm reloading .223 once fired brass, mixed head stamp.

I can tell you one thing for sure: It ain't the gun.

Perhaps I am far removed from the general crowd of people that mass-produce ammo at any cost-savings (and inherent risk) they may procure, but the ONLY "mixed headstamp" reloading I have ever done in 44 years is for a .38 Special revolver... and REGARDLESS of how I adjust my dies or do anything else, I EXPECT my inconsistency in component choice to result in inconsistency in chambering and accuracy, and any one of another predictable anomalies.

I would never consider loading mixed headstamp highpower rifle brass without expecting far more difficulties than my "minor" ones I see in .38 Special. Certainly never in an automatic rifle that by very nature is tempermental to cartridge consistency for proper operation.

Bottom line: feed your gun as you would feed yourself: a consistent diet results in less indigestion.

 

[DukkButt]

Bought a Hornady head space gauge today. Looks like head space is the problem. The cases that are hard to eject are at or just under the same head space as my no-go gauge. Interesting thing there is the no-go gauge is labeled as 1.4696" but the head space gauge measures it at 1.4600". The important thing is that the cases that are hard to eject are at or just .001/.002" shorter than the no-go gauge. The ones that don't have a problem are all just a little shorter head space. (The difference in length between go and no-go is surprisingly short, about .0050".) So, that leaves the question of why about 1 in 10 of my reloads are coming up too long on head space. I'm thinking it must be something I'm doing. Have to slow down and measure each reload as I'm doing them and see if I can find a patter to it.

 

[deadshot2]

Bought a Hornady head space gauge today. Looks like head space is the problem. The cases that are hard to eject are at or just under the same head space as my no-go gauge. Interesting thing there is the no-go gauge is labeled as 1.4696" but the head space gauge measures it at 1.4600". The important thing is that the cases that are hard to eject are at or just .001/.002" shorter than the no-go gauge. The ones that don't have a problem are all just a little shorter head space. (The difference in length between go and no-go is surprisingly short, about .0050".) So, that leaves the question of why about 1 in 10 of my reloads are coming up too long on head space. I'm thinking it must be something I'm doing. Have to slow down and measure each reload as I'm doing them and see if I can find a patter to it.

If your reloaded cases don't have the correct "headspace" length, which is measured from the base to a datum point on the shoulder, then your die setup is not bumping back the shoulder far enough. Is your press flexing? When the case is forced fully into the sizing die, is there any gap between the shell holder and the bottom of the die? Check with a feeler gauge.

I know I've harped on this before but are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that there is no carbon buildup in the shoulder area of the chamber? Have you cleaned the "Shih-Tsu" out of it with a chamber brush? Again, your problem sounds very similar to what I had happen on one of my AR's and frequent application of the chamber brush keeps it from reoccurring.

 

[DukkButt]

The case gauge seems pretty conclusive. Having rounds that head space the same length as the no-go gauge explains the hard to eject problem. It's possible that I'm not fully seating the die sometimes. That's why I think I need to do something like 100 rounds and check head space on each one as I do them. My press is the small Lee single stage, so I imagine it's possible to get some flex on a tight fitting case, but doing the 100 rounds experiment should shed some light on the situation.

Cleaned the chamber with one of those ar chamber brushes, vigorously enough to create a fine mist of cleaning fluid. I will heed your advice and keep that area well cleaned. With as tight as the tolerances are it wouldn't take much to create a problem.

Only other thing I can think of is to try a different shell holder (try to find one that is a few thousandths thinner, maybe?) or shave a few thousandths off of the top of the shell holder that I have to make the case seat deeper. Seems like an extreme action to take, however. I'll reserve that one for if everything else fails.

 

[deadshot2]

Only other thing I can think of is to try a different shell holder (try to find one that is a few thousandths thinner, maybe?) or shave a few thousandths off of the top of the shell holder that I have to make the case seat deeper. Seems like an extreme action to take, however. I'll reserve that one for if everything else fails.

If you have NO gap when the ram is fully raised, and you are still getting cases where the shoulder isn't set back enough, then remove a few thousandth's from the bottom of the DIE, not the shell holder. Removing material from the shell holder will reduce the strength of that part that pulls the case out of the die after sizing. Not a problem if taken off the bottom of the die. If you remove too much (remember, we're talking thousandth's of an inch here) you can merely back off on the die. Use a flat sharpening stone and check your work frequently so you don't take more than needed.

 

[Spitpatch]

Just to summarize:

1) We scrub the bejeezus out of a chamber of a gun that functions perfectly with factory ammo.

2) We buy another set of dies.

3) We buy a headspace guage.

4) We agonize over cleanliness of the inside of brass necks (when a simple swipe with a nylon brush is always sufficient).

5) We alter our dies.

6) We alter our shellholder.

Or, we begin with consistent components:decent quality brass of the same brand, and of equal firings, realizing not only flawless functionality, but benefits toward accuracy as well.

To each his own.

 

[bmgm37]

When you adjust your die, are you bringing the press ram up, then screwing the die in until it touches the shellholder them lowering the ram and turning the die IN another 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then raise the ram up which should cam over slightly ant then lock the die in place? This is the way it should be done and you should be good, if not, adjust the die down another 1/8 turn and I bet you will be GTG.

As far as consistent components, for target/blasting ammo it is an overkill IMO. I have loaded over 80,000 rnds on my Dillon 1050 with mixed unknown firings brass over the last 32 years and have never had a problem. This is feeding M16's, AR's and Mini 14's which can all be finicky eaters. I always check random rounds with a simple Wilson case gage as it is a LOT easier than the Hornady gage, which I also have. I still am betting all you need to do is adjust you die down a little more

 

[deadshot2]

As far as consistent components, for target/blasting ammo it is an overkill IMO. I have loaded over 80,000 rnds on my Dillon 1050 with mixed unknown firings brass over the last 32 years and have never had a problem. This is feeding M16's, AR's and Mini 14's which can all be finicky eaters. I always check random rounds with a simple Wilson case gage as it is a LOT easier than the Hornady gage, which I also have.

I'm close on round count only with a 650. I agree, sorting cases for an "Auto Ammo Eater" is not productive. Another story when loading for a Custom built AR that has as much resemblance to the original as a Nascar Sprint cup car has to what's on your Dealer's floor, or for a Bolt Action .223.

 

[coop44]

Just give up, throw away the ammo and sell the gun for parts, it's just to complicated to figure out.