.223 or 5.56 Ammo How do you choose?

[WhyElKay]

I've been very random at choosing ammo because I don't really know what I'm supposed to look for. I'm shooting for accuracy. Is there an advantage to using one over the other? Is there generally a particular brand to stick with?

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[ZigZagZeke]

It depends on how your rifle is chambered. Don't shoot 5.56 in rifle chambered for .223 only. Some rifles are chambered for both.

 

[Joe13]

Go with whatever your rifle groups best with.

Mine shoots 62gr 5.56 the best.

 

[2ndtimer]

It would be helpful to know if you rifle is chambered in .223 Rem., 5.56 NATO or .223 Wylde. Also, knowing the twist rate of the barrel would help us to make more informed suggestions.

 

[titsonritz]

You can not judge accuracy solely based on the cartridge, there is crap .223 and crap 5.56x45 ammo in terms of accuracy. Example: Military M855 is not know for great accuracy, but MK262 is know for superior accuracy, both are 5.56.

What chamber do you have? That is the key to determining which ammo to start with. Plenty of good options out there.

That said Black Hills makes great ammo.

 

[Member 34319]

I've been very random at choosing ammo because I don't really know what I'm supposed to look for. I'm shooting for accuracy. Is there an advantage to using one over the other? Is there generally a particular brand to stick with?

If shooting this through your ruger from the other thread. I'd start with low priced 223 or 556 and shoot groupings on paper at 50 or 100 yards. Your set up had a low power scope on it so 50-75 yards may be the longest distance you can get good results out of depending on skill set. Most inexpensive ammo is still capable of 2 inch groups at 100 yards these days. 223/556 shoots flat to 100 out of a 16" barrel. So it's not dropping any really.

Also that ruger could probably benefit from a better trigger.

Keep practicing and experimenting with ammos and you'll get where you want to be shortly.

 

[User 1234]

If your twist rate is 1/7" or 1/9" then I recommend trying Black Hills 62gr to start. If 1/12" (which is rare on modern ARs but was standard on the Vietnam era M16A1) then you are essentially limited to 55gr.

 

[User 1234]

The twist rate will be stamped on the barrel.

 

[11Charlie]

I would go buy a box of several different weight ammo and go enjoy some range time. By the time your done you will now what your rifle likes best.

 

[DB is Here]

I would go buy a box of several different weight ammo and go enjoy some range time. By the time your done you will now what your rifle likes best.

Before or after barrel break-in?

 

[11Charlie]

Before or after barrel break-in?

I guess that depends on the person behind the trigger!!! Before for most and for the ones who believe in wasting time and money after!!!!

 

[titsonritz]

The twist rate will be stamped on the barrel.

Unfortunately, that doesn't always tell the tale. I have seen dozens of barrel stamped 5.56 and still leave a pile of shavings after being hit with a 5.56 chamber reamer, several were Rugers.

 

[titsonritz]

Before or after barrel break-in?

Stop it.

 

[WhyElKay]

It would be helpful to know if you rifle is chambered in .223 Rem., 5.56 NATO or .223 Wylde. Also, knowing the twist rate of the barrel would help us to make more informed suggestions.

1:8. And it's chambered for both.

 

[thorborg]

Under 300 yards I think the average person wouldn't find much reason to promote one over the other beyond price and availability.
If your firearm will shoot both, 5.56 are, and can be, loaded to somewhat higher pressures allowing for a slightly heavier weight projectile which can help maintain speed over the long haul. Higher pressure does not always mean precision.
Hunting is (for the most part) less restrictive in finding a good round and brand and can usually be done trying fewer brands since the vital spot (at least for big game) is large enough to allow more leeway than in precision target shooting. Today, there are many brands and creative projectiles that usually will perform wonderfully for most hunters under 300 yards. An inch and a half off at 300 yards is not unreasonable to be a successful hunter. Some are actually reasonably priced.
regardless of your type of shooting, finding the best ammo is like finding your preferred ice cream, i.e.. you need to try many to discern what's best.
Unlike ice cream, comparing each flavor should be done in a controlled setting for distance, weather, bench conditions, lighting, rest time (cool down) between rounds etc. to ensure each has a fair chance to show their stuff compared to the others.
Higher price, like Norma precision does not always translate to what is best in your rifle albeit generally, the closer the cartridge clones are for each round (exacting weight, case, powder, COL, ) the more likely will perform the most consistently which Norma strives for, Not to say others don't) but also inducing precision shooters to ultimately hand load to help control cost and tweak for their rifles individual specs.
All factory loads are set to some "average" specs determined by its maker to hopefully perform at least well in everybody's rifle. So regardless of brand and cost, some can hit the sweet spot pretty well but it is still a "please everybody" "average" and why trying many brands of similar projectiles in your rifle is important. In hand loading, one can tune the tolerance and powder to their specific rifles barrel and chamber.
What drives tack in your .223 / 5.56 may not in mine.
All in all, I suggest you save your brass even if you have no intention to hand load. One never knows. In the event random fun turns into an addiction for precision, or you just want to enjoy making your own cartridges, or saying "I" made those ragged one hole groups happen, you will be glad you did with money in the reloading bank.

 

[nwslopoke]

My 1/9 barrels just happen to be chrome lined and my 1/7 barrels not chrome lined. Not much in between especially since it's hard to get much past 100 yards. My favorite so far is the 1/9 Stag Arms using 55gr My biggest improvements came after a trigger upgrade.

 

[WhyElKay]

If shooting this through your ruger from the other thread. I'd start with low priced 223 or 556 and shoot groupings on paper at 50 or 100 yards. Your set up had a low power scope on it so 50-75 yards may be the longest distance you can get good results out of depending on skill set. Most inexpensive ammo is still capable of 2 inch groups at 100 yards these days. 223/556 shoots flat to 100 out of a 16" barrel. So it's not dropping any really.

Also that ruger could probably benefit from a better trigger.

Keep practicing and experimenting with ammos and you'll get where you want to be shortly.

I have upgraded the scope, just haven't changed it out yet. you're right the scope on it now is perfect at 100 yds w/ good groupings.
What trigger would you recommend and why?

 

[Unka-Boo]

Ask yourself how far you are realistically going to shoot it on a regular basis.
Find the cheapest brass cased ammo that consistantly gives you under 3MOA.
Stock up.
Enjoy.

I would venture to guess most people don't shoot over 300 yards regularly.
People get overly obsessed with getting the smallest groups possible, reality says you don't need a sub MOA gun for recreational shooting and or small game.

 

[Member 34319]

I have upgraded the scope, just haven't changed it out yet. you're right the scope on it now is perfect at 100 yds w/ good groupings.
What trigger would you recommend and why?

I've had really good experiences with single stage triggers. My current favorites are Velocity and or POF. The POF triggers go on sale occasionally and come with a set of anti walk pins. Good value when on sale. I've also been buying Aim Surplus's single stage, I'm certain it is made by Timney, and they are great value triggers.

 

[User 1234]

LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger - LaRue Tactical

Best bang for the buck that I have found (pun intended).