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While not everybody has their own opinion, you should use small base dies for semi-autos for reliable ammo. For trimming LOTS of brass the best way like Deadshot2 said is the Dillon rapid trim...spendy but well worth it. I also run mine in a xl650 but I load my 5.56 on a Dillon 1050. Just depends on how fast you want to get things done and how much you want to spend. :s0112:

All Dillion dies are "Small base" dies. Have been for 35 years, just made the call to them on this and that is what I was told by customer service. Gonna do some reloading this weekend while I have some free time!
Good luck!
 
All Dillion dies are "Small base" dies.

The problems with Dillon dies are in the semi auto handgun calibers like 9 MM, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. They have too large of a radius at the bottom of the die. While this does aid in feeding the case mouths into the die on progressive reloading machines, it does not resize the base of the brass sufficiently. This can be a problem when this type of ammunition is fired in a throated barrel like the ones found on many 1911's and most all Glocks. A lot of these guns cause the fired cases to bluge slightly at the base. It is important to resize the case as far down as possible. The large, open radius on the Dillon dies does not allow this. The result is brass that is insufficiently sized, and can cause chambering problems in many semi auto pistols. Bill T.
 
The problems with Dillon dies are in the semi auto handgun calibers like 9 MM, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. They have too large of a radius at the bottom of the die. While this does aid in feeding the case mouths into the die on progressive reloading machines, it does not resize the base of the brass sufficiently. This can be a problem when this type of ammunition is fired in a throated barrel like the ones found on many 1911's and most all Glocks. A lot of these guns cause the fired cases to bluge slightly at the base. It is important to resize the case as far down as possible. The large, open radius on the Dillon dies does not allow this. The result is brass that is insufficiently sized, and can cause chambering problems in many semi auto pistols. Bill T.

Yet for some reason, the rounds seem to fit the case gauge just fine. I use dillon dies for all my 9mm and don't have any problem at all. Not a single failure to go into battery. Thousands and thousands of rounds.
 
It sounds like you are new to reloading. When reloading for the ar there are many things to be aware of. Use of cci #41 and loading to 5.56 specs rather than .223 specs are just a couple. The best thing you can do for yourself is get a few reloading books (speer, hornady,etc.) and a beginning and intermediate loading video. Do it right or don't do it at all---mistakes can be costly to you and your rifle.
 
It sounds like you are new to reloading. When reloading for the ar there are many things to be aware of. Use of cci #41 and loading to 5.56 specs rather than .223 specs are just a couple. The best thing you can do for yourself is get a few reloading books (speer, hornady,etc.) and a beginning and intermediate loading video. Do it right or don't do it at all---mistakes can be costly to you and your rifle.

I agree with the recommendation on using the #41 TYPE primer but rather than pay the outrageous price for the CCI's I use the Wolf .223 Primer. Does the same thing, helping prevent slam fires, but cost is far less than the CCI's. Have used them for the last 10,000 AR loads. Not a single failure to fire and accuracy equal the CCI's.

Powder Valley has both for sale but the Wolf Primers are just about half the price of the CCI's. ($15.50 vs $29 per thousand).
 

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