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You should go to rugerforum.net and ask for advice there. Many members there with knowledge of all things ruger and you might even find someone that has a source for your part.
 
I'm in Hillsboro, but have a metal lathe. If you're willing to bring me a 6 pack for after (as well as the gun and all the pins :) ) this week/weekend, I can knock that out while you wait. I have some mild steel rod left over from a previous project that'll work for that just fine.

Edit: NOT tonight, looks like I have plans. I usually get home from work ~3/330, so any time after that.
 
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I'm in Hillsboro, but have a metal lathe. If you're willing to bring me a 6 pack for after (as well as the gun and all the pins :) ) this week/weekend, I can knock that out while you wait. I have some mild steel rod left over from a previous project that'll work for that just fine.

Edit: NOT tonight, looks like I have plans. I usually get home from work ~3/330, so any time after that.
Awesome! I emailed ruger and will wait to see how they respond. There is only three pins in the entire gun, it shouldn't be that hard for them. I will keep you posted. It would be nice to meet another member from here.
 
Awesome! I emailed ruger and will wait to see how they respond. There is only three pins in the entire gun, it shouldn't be that hard for them. I will keep you posted. It would be nice to meet another member from here.
So.......why did the pin break? To me, that would be a more interesting answer than how to replace it.
 
I woul
I have no idea why or when it broke as it has never been out. I just noticed it after it walked to one side because of its new shorter length.
i would put the broken pin into my hardness testing press to determine if it was too brittle or too soft and make the new pin to the opposite of whatever I found. No reason to have the same problem again.
 
I woul

i would put the broken pin into my hardness testing press to determine if it was too brittle or too soft and make the new pin to the opposite of whatever I found. No reason to have the same problem again.
I agree but, at this point I cannot remove it or I'll end up with a pile of parts, LOL. Once I get the new pin I can use it to drive the old one out to get exact measurements.
 
I agree but, at this point I cannot remove it or I'll end up with a pile of parts, LOL. Once I get the new pin I can use it to drive the old one out to get exact measurements.
You may have stumbled onto a new part time job.........you can't be the only person with the same problem
 
Somewhere along the line Ruger made a print revision. A few of these Rugers fell thru the cracks.
The pin is hardened and has a detent groove in it. I've had to make one in the last. Ruger sent me the wrong pin 3 times :(.
I ended up using a small piece of drill rod. Faces the ends and put a tiny groove in it. Must still be working because I haven't heard from the fellow. :)
 
Somewhere along the line Ruger made a print revision. A few of these Rugers fell thru the cracks.
The pin is hardened and has a detent groove in it. I've had to make one in the last. Ruger sent me the wrong pin 3 times :(.
I ended up using a small piece of drill rod. Faces the ends and put a tiny groove in it. Must still be working because I haven't heard from the fellow. :)
Ah, I didn't realize it was hardened! In that case, we'd need to pick up some stock. I also dont' have a hardening setup, but a handheld torch and some oil can do it IIRC.
 
Ah, I didn't realize it was hardened! In that case, we'd need to pick up some stock. I also dont' have a hardening setup, but a handheld torch and some oil can do it IIRC.

Use the straight section on the end of the drill bit. It's made out of drill rod and doesn't need to be heat treated. :D
 
Wayne from ruger called me this afternoon and was a very good representative of the company. He said that the ball got dropped twice before and now he's handling it personally. He verified on a schematic of my actual pistol and pulled the correct part. He also said that if it's not 100% that they will cover any shipping charges that may occur. Thumbs up to ruger on the third go-round.
 
Use the straight section on the end of the drill bit. It's made out of drill rod and doesn't need to be heat treated. :D
Heat treating is the easiest part. It is much easer to work after you aneal it then re heat treat it after it is the size and shape you want. I still want to know how it broke......it might have been too hard.
 
Wayne from ruger called me this afternoon and was a very good representative of the company. He said that the ball got dropped twice before and now he's handling it personally. He verified on a schematic of my actual pistol and pulled the correct part. He also said that if it's not 100% that they will cover any shipping charges that may occur. Thumbs up to ruger on the third go-round.
About time, great to hear they are hopefully going to get this right!
 
The CORRECT pin showed up today!!!! I immediately installed it and reassembled it and it seems to work flawlessly. I'll take it to work tomorrow to function fire it (my job is awesome, I can shoot any time at our treatment center to "scare away the ducks). I just emailed Ruger one last time to tell them how good Wayne was to remedy my situation. Thank you all for the help and advice/offers. Now, I'm entering my first golf ball shoot competition tomorrow night with it. I've never shot competitively against other shooter besides friends (no real competition)
 
The CORRECT pin showed up today!!!! I immediately installed it and reassembled it and it seems to work flawlessly. I'll take it to work tomorrow to function fire it (my job is awesome, I can shoot any time at our treatment center to "scare away the ducks). I just emailed Ruger one last time to tell them how good Wayne was to remedy my situation. Thank you all for the help and advice/offers. Now, I'm entering my first golf ball shoot competition tomorrow night with it. I've never shot competitively against other shooter besides friends (no real competition)
Damn glad they finally got it right for you.
 

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