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I just got my $20 trigger job kit from Joebob today...( Kaw Valley reduced power springs and grip screw trigger adjuster) and Install took all of 10 minutes. I went from pulling @ 7-7.5# to a consistent hair under 5#. My $200 POF pulls only a half pound lighter. Granted it has less(actually 0) takeup, but for the purpose this rifle serves I couldn't be happier.
Highly recommend!

I'm compelled to add a caveat to consider... There is a possibility of light primer strikes with reduced weight springs, as stated in HB of CJ's comment below. The manufacturer is explicit about the fact, and recommends the work be done or overseen by a competent gunsmith.
 
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I have JP light spring on most of my trigger and bought a few of the trigger adjustment screws but haven't installed them.

I am going to eventually to a light polish and install those screws and hope it helps.
 
Glad it worked out for you! I played with reduced power springs but I was getting light primer strikes on hard primers like Tula resulting in failure to ignite/fire. I need 100% reliability so I went with a Geissele.
 
I got a VELOCITY 3lb on one of my ARs I got a TSUNAMI 3.5 LBS on 300blk out AR and I got a POF 4.5LBS on the other AR lol and the one I'm building now will have a Franklin armory Binary trigger on it there just under 7lbs I got a no name drop in trigger from some place online I think the optics factory I can't remember but it had light strike problem so I have to change the spring in it or build a .22 cal AR lol yes I will build a whole new gun just too use the trigger HEHEH
 
No name trigger cheap drop in IMAG0948.jpg IMAG0947.jpg all the trigger 's I mentioned about cost more than $20 bucks so if you like it your bank account is doing better than mine lol
 
No name trigger cheap drop in View attachment 362001 View attachment 362002all the trigger 's I mentioned about cost more than $20 bucks so if you like it your bank account is doing better than mine lol

I think these are called Ultra Match. Looks like the one I got from Delta Team Tactical for about $100. The one I have was listed at 3lb and it is very light. A little mushy, IMO. I'm not an expert. I also had to get a set of anti walk pins because the trigger pins were slipping out. I plan to get another set. The nickel boron trigger from Palmetto State is nicer than a stock trigger for about $30 but after shooting the 3lb trigger a 6-7 lb trigger feels ridiculously heavy.
 
I think these are called Ultra Match. Looks like the one I got from Delta Team Tactical for about $100. The one I have was listed at 3lb and it is very light. A little mushy, IMO. I'm not an expert. I also had to get a set of anti walk pins because the trigger pins were slipping out. I plan to get another set. The nickel boron trigger from Palmetto State is nicer than a stock trigger for about $30 but after shooting the 3lb trigger a 6-7 lb trigger feels ridiculously heavy.
Yes that's where I got it I could not remember like $80
 
Another point of view. Respectfully.

Assuming this is an AR15, reduced springs MAY not be a good idea. Here is why. The AR15 platform uses a floating firing pin. There is no positive firing pin return spring. This is both good and bad. Here is why it MAY be good.

Good because the pin does snap back and forth. This reduces fouling stoppages. But ... AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. The AR15 fire control group springs were lifted directly from the M16 rifle with no changes in the spring snap.

AND ... the M16 rifle was designed around a 5.56x45 cartridge with military hard specification primers. The hammer spring must have enough power to pop hard military primers. All of them. Military hard primers are NOT soft primers.

Some commercial primers are NOT military hard. So what happens? If you buy some commercial .223 ammo with non military soft primers and shoot them through your AR15 with a reduced spring pac, the firing pin probably will work.

You may NOT get light strikes. Good. But then what happens if you want to shoot off some military spec ammo that has hard primers? You MIGHT get light primer strikes. The rifle will not fire. You MAY have a black expensive club.

Some feel this is no problem if you know your rifle and ammo. I agree as far as it goes. Also one may consider that others may have to use your rifle and not know? Or you may sell your rifle and they do not know? Then what?

This might be something to do with nothing at all. A non issue. Or ... it might be a matter of life and death and a very big issue. Depends upon your paranoia and point of view. Soft springs work .... but at what rifle function potential? Dunno.

Now we will talk about soft springs, mis honed fire control group surfaces and the potential for rifle doubling WITH SOFT PRIMERS and possible prison time. The firing pin floats. Sometimes it floats too well. Doubling can occur. It happens. Yikes!

When using soft non military primers through the AR15 rarely, but sometimes, the floating firing pin hits the primer hard enough to pop it off. The gun literally slam fires. Doubling. Not good. The BATFE frowns upon this. Jail time exists. Yikes!

So what is the connection? Soft springs reduce trigger pull. This is good. But it does so in the wrong fashion. A soft hammer spring begs the use of soft primers. Soft primers beg the occurrence of slam fires or doubling.

Remember, that floating AR15 firing pin does not know the difference. Hand rack some rounds through your AR15. Examine the non fired ejected rounds. Eyeball the primer. You will see dimples. Normal. Safe with hard primers.

Respectfully. Hundreds of builds. Uncounted rebuilds.
 
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Another point of view. Respectfully.

Assuming this is an AR15, reduced springs MAY not be a good idea. Here is why. The AR15 platform uses a floating firing pin. There is no positive firing pin return spring. This is both good and bad. Here is why it MAY be good.

Good because the pin does snap back and forth. This reduces fouling stoppages. But ... AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. The AR15 fire control group springs were lifted directly from the M16 rifle with no changes in the spring snap.

AND ... the M16 rifle was designed around a 5.56x45 cartridge with military hard specification primers. The hammer spring must have enough power to pop hard military primers. All of them. Military hard primers are NOT soft primers.

Some commercial primers are NOT military hard. So what happens? If you buy some commercial .223 ammo with non military soft primers and shoot them through your AR15 with a reduced spring pac, the firing pin probably will work.

You may NOT get light strikes. Good. But then what happens if you want to shoot off some military spec ammo that has hard primers? You MIGHT get light primer strikes. The rifle will not fire. You MAY have a black expensive club.

Some feel this is no problem if you know your rifle and ammo. I agree as far as it goes. Also one may consider that others may have to use your rifle and not know? Or you may sell your rifle and they do not know? Then what?

This might be something to do with nothing at all. A non issue. Or ... it might be a matter of life and death and a very big issue. Depends upon your paranoia and point of view. Soft springs work .... but at what rifle function potential? Dunno.

Now we will talk about soft springs, mis honed fire control group surfaces and the potential for rifle doubling WITH SOFT PRIMERS and possible prison time. The firing pin floats. Sometimes it floats too well. Doubling can occur. It happens. Yikes!

When using soft non military primers through the AR15 rarely, but sometimes, the floating firing pin hits the primer hard enough to pop it off. The gun literally slam fires. Doubling. Not good. The BATFE frowns upon this. Jail time exists. Yikes!

So what is the connection? Soft springs reduce trigger pull. This is good. But it does so in the wrong fashion. A soft hammer spring begs the use of soft primers. Soft primers beg the occurrence of slam fires or doubling.

Remember, that floating AR15 firing pin does not know the difference. Hand rack some rounds through your AR15. Examine the non fired ejected rounds. Eyeball the primer. You will see dimples. Normal. Safe with hard primers.

Respectfully. Hundreds of builds. Uncounted rebuilds.
All true as I had that one black trigger IN my 300 black out and it worked fine but when I switched it to the gun I built for my sister it would not fire the 5.56 rounds all the time LIGHT STRIKE problem 's I put the velocity trigger IN her gun and no problem and I got a pof trigger for the gun I took the velocity trigger out of so I got to spend a hour or so switching trigger 's all around lol good thing it was raining that day I had nothing else to do
 
I think these are called Ultra Match. Looks like the one I got from Delta Team Tactical for about $100. The one I have was listed at 3lb and it is very light. A little mushy, IMO. I'm not an expert. I also had to get a set of anti walk pins because the trigger pins were slipping out. I plan to get another set. The nickel boron trigger from Palmetto State is nicer than a stock trigger for about $30 but after shooting the 3lb trigger a 6-7 lb trigger feels ridiculously heavy.
I'm getting quite a bit of pin movement with the lighter springs so this $20 trigger job is about to become a $50 after I get some KNS coming... I hear you about a 6-7 pounder feeling rediculous after having something much better. I love the POF I have in my other AR, and I have a Savage FVSR .22 that pulls at a little over 2.5. that accutrigger is amazing! The trigger I started with was a little better than most off the shelf(Rock river single stage) but only by a pound. I just didn't have another $150-300 to spend on another drop in so I got what I could afford.. and it gave me another project to scratch the AR itch.
 
Another point of view. Respectfully.

Assuming this is an AR15, reduced springs MAY not be a good idea. Here is why. The AR15 platform uses a floating firing pin. There is no positive firing pin return spring. This is both good and bad. Here is why it MAY be good.

Good because the pin does snap back and forth. This reduces fouling stoppages. But ... AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. The AR15 fire control group springs were lifted directly from the M16 rifle with no changes in the spring snap.

AND ... the M16 rifle was designed around a 5.56x45 cartridge with military hard specification primers. The hammer spring must have enough power to pop hard military primers. All of them. Military hard primers are NOT soft primers.

Some commercial primers are NOT military hard. So what happens? If you buy some commercial .223 ammo with non military soft primers and shoot them through your AR15 with a reduced spring pac, the firing pin probably will work.

You may NOT get light strikes. Good. But then what happens if you want to shoot off some military spec ammo that has hard primers? You MIGHT get light primer strikes. The rifle will not fire. You MAY have a black expensive club.

Some feel this is no problem if you know your rifle and ammo. I agree as far as it goes. Also one may consider that others may have to use your rifle and not know? Or you may sell your rifle and they do not know? Then what?

This might be something to do with nothing at all. A non issue. Or ... it might be a matter of life and death and a very big issue. Depends upon your paranoia and point of view. Soft springs work .... but at what rifle function potential? Dunno.

Now we will talk about soft springs, mis honed fire control group surfaces and the potential for rifle doubling WITH SOFT PRIMERS and possible prison time. The firing pin floats. Sometimes it floats too well. Doubling can occur. It happens. Yikes!

When using soft non military primers through the AR15 rarely, but sometimes, the floating firing pin hits the primer hard enough to pop it off. The gun literally slam fires. Doubling. Not good. The BATFE frowns upon this. Jail time exists. Yikes!

So what is the connection? Soft springs reduce trigger pull. This is good. But it does so in the wrong fashion. A soft hammer spring begs the use of soft primers. Soft primers beg the occurrence of slam fires or doubling.

Remember, that floating AR15 firing pin does not know the difference. Hand rack some rounds through your AR15. Examine the non fired ejected rounds. Eyeball the primer. You will see dimples. Normal. Safe with hard primers.

Respectfully. Hundreds of builds. Uncounted rebuilds.
Your points are both welcome and very appreciated. I put a very high value the opinions of experienced smiths/builders. I've made enough mistakes with past hobbies, and this one, so I research extensively before I pull the trigger on a new component. I read many, many reviews and videos on reduced power springs, and I almost went with the JP Red and yellow because they tried to address the issues with a different hammer spring, but the Kaw Valley springs had better all around ratings. In their packaging and even product description they are clear about the possibility of light primer strikes on some ammo(I hear steel ammo like tula is the worst) I typically only feed it my own loads, however I will take it to the range and try several types of ammo before I completely trust it. I also bought a "spare" hammer because I saw a few vids in which the hammer is bobbed to increase the reliability. I'm not sure if it works, (thoughts?) but It's worth hacking up a $5 used hammer to find out. I also heard that the same possibilities of primer strike issues can be said of drop in trigger packs, but I've had 0 problems with my POF.
Thanks again for you're input... I'll put a caveat in my OP.

I don't know if it's worth mentioning because I haven't been to the range yet, and the real proof is in how it shoots, but I've cycled the trigger many, many times, and it is very consistent both in the way it sounds, and the weight that it releases.. It sounds and feels very positive, and releases at just a hair under 5lbs. every time.
 
Something that ive noticed about a lot of the drop in triggers, is the effort the manufacturer puts into the aesthetics of the trigger pac... I can see making the trigger lever look nice, but nobody sees the rest after it's installed. Why not skip that BS, and pass the extra cost savings on to the consumer?
 
Just an additional short note. I re-read some of the inputs and the need for anti walk hammer and trigger pins came to view. The anti walk pins are needed because some after market hammers delete a dinky pesky horrible OEM type "J" spring. This dinky spring is deep inside the hammer on the pin axis and springs against the center hammer pin groove found on stock AR15 and M16 rifles.

It is called a "J" spring because it is horrible, dinky and that is what it looks like.

This is supposed to keep the hammer pin inside the receiver. Usually it works fine. Problems come up when the receiver hammer and trigger pin holes are not quite correct. Also problems come up when the hammer and triggers engagements are not quite right. Stresses pull the pins out of the receiver, usually the right side. A fix are anti walk pins. Work great. A good upgrade for any AR15.

Hope this helps kinda. Respectfully. Since I used the word "M16": the following ... All Oregon State, US Code Laws And NFA Rules Apply. Your local, county and state gun laws may vary greatly.

Edited for speelling, grammour, sintax, puinchation, danglinging particycles, etc..
 
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Just an additional short note. I re-read some of the inputs and the need for anti walk hammer and trigger pins came to view. The anti walk pins are needed because some after market hammers delete a dinky pesky horrible OEM type "J" spring. This dinky spring is deep inside the hammer on the pin axis and springs against the center hammer pin groove found on stock AR15 and M16 rifles.

It is called a "J" spring because it is horrible, dinky and that is what it looks like.

This is supposed to keep the hammer pin inside the receiver. Usually it works fine. Problems come up when the receiver hammer and trigger pin holes are not quite correct. Also problems come up when the hammer and triggers engagements are not quite right. Stresses pull the pins out of the receiver, usually the right side. A fix are anti walk pins. Work great. A good upgrade for any AR15.

Hope this helps kinda. Respectfully. Since I used the work "M16": the following ... All Oregon State, US Code Laws And NFA Rules Apply. Your local, county and state gun laws may vary greatly.
I never noticed that spring until yesterday when I was buffing the sere contacts with my dremel. I woundered what it was for...
I'm noticing quite a bit of rotation on both pins since I put in the new springs(it may have been an issue before, i'm just hyper observant of that area since the install). I'm worried they are going to walk out. It's noticeable even when manually cycling the action so I imagine it will be worse with sustained firing. All that spinning of steel on aluminum is sure to cause the holes to wear as well, so I've already ordered new fancier pins for my SPR, and I'll put the hand-me-downs that came with the POF on this one.
 
I'm getting quite a bit of pin movement with the lighter springs so this $20 trigger job is about to become a $50 after I get some KNS coming... I hear you about a 6-7 pounder feeling rediculous after having something much better. I love the POF I have in my other AR, and I have a Savage FVSR .22 that pulls at a little over 2.5. that accutrigger is amazing! The trigger I started with was a little better than most off the shelf(Rock river single stage) but only by a pound. I just didn't have another $150-300 to spend on another drop in so I got what I could afford.. and it gave me another project to scratch the AR itch.
The first drop in trigger I ever bought was the VELOCITY 3LBS I found it on eBay for $134 and that was 2 or 3 year's ago and I still have it and it still works great and I just got a POF 4.5 LBS a few weeks ago on eBay bid Auction for $128 I will find out how it works on Friday
 
IMG_1727.JPG I just bobbed the hammer and polished all the contact points till they were nice and shiny and it took at least another 1/2# off. Ive got as low as 4# but it's averaging an easy 4.5# and no more pretravel mush!. :s0073:
I was comparing it back to back with my POF 4.5# and they feel almost identical!

I'll head to the range in the next couple days and let y'all know how it performs. I haven't refinished the back and top of the hammer yet because I may take more off if needed.. This isn't the hammer that came with the RRA LPK so I can put it back the way it was if I can't get it to hit the primers hard enough to be reliable. It feels and sounds solid though so I'm optimistic.


IMG_1724.JPG
 
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