1911 Hammer Replacement

[cbzdel]

I just got ahold of another 1911, its brand new and unfired.

I would like to replace the hammer with a skeletonized hammer on this gun (mainly for looks)

Can I just drop in a new hammer since this gun has never been fired. I would figure since nothing has broken in yet it would be ok since the parts will all break in together.

Can anyone recommend a decent priced matte stainless hammer, or all of them about in the $50 range?

I heard this once. Replace any part of a 1911s internal workings is like replacing a camshaft, if you replace the camshaft you also replace the lifters, ect, otherwise you risk damage. Well if thats the case, my lifters are already new so I wouldnt replace them haha!

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[wichaka]

You didn't mention what make or model of 1911 you have.

If its a Gov type model with a spur style hammer, the only way a Commander style hammer will work is if the grip safety is modified as below;




Otherwise, you'll need a beavertail style grip safety to allow enough clearance for the hammer to operate and cock fully.

As for hammers...Ed Browns Hardcore Barstock, Wilson, or Nowlin Pro-Match are in the price neighborhood you're looking for.

 

[cbzdel]

Its another Taurus 1911, I got it VERY cheap so I could not pass on it

It already has the beaver tail grip on it so I am not worried about it fitting I just need to know what I need to replace with the hammer if anything due it it never being fired.

 

[wichaka]

Whether the gun has been fired or not, makes no difference.

A hammer is not a drop in part, unless you obtain it with a matching sear that has been pre-fitted to that particular hammer. Even then it may not be totally drop in, as the pin placement for the hammer/sear on the frame may out of spec.

The hammer needs to be fitted to the sear, for a safe reliable trigger pull.

There are 2 cuts on the sear, as well as angles that need to be looked at and adjusted as needed. Both the sear and the hammer should have a mirror finish on the engagement surfaces.

Then one needs to look at the proper sear spring tensions on both sear & and disconnect.

Not difficult if one knows what they're doing, but could be disastrous if one doesn't.

 

[cbzdel]

sounds like I need a smith ahah!

Any 1911 gurus want earn some cash on the side if I buy the parts

I was hoping I could just drop it in it works 100%

 

[wichaka]

I'd be happy to do it, if you can get it down here to me.

Am about 60 miles east of Vancouver.

 

[cbzdel]

Question here, I installed my new hammer just to get a feel for how it would look. I gave it a few dry fires and it seems to work great, no problems what so ever.

Strange? Or just a possibility?

Should I still take it to a smith to have them look at it even though it seems fully functioning?

 

[Partsproduction]

What is the trigger weight now?

 

[wichaka]

Safety/function tests;


http://www.m1911.org/technic25.htm

 

[alexwa]

Also you can place the hammer & sear outside of the frame then
push the pins through the parts into the frame, observe how the surfaces mate.

Compare it with the old hammer.

 

[Hill]

Was there EVER a Taurus 1911 that had a spur hammer?

anyway OP - if when you fire the pistol the hammer cocks and doesn't follow down, and your pistol doesn't empty the mag with each trigger pull, and you don't know or care enough to have a fine trigger in the gun, then enjoy it for as long as it lasts.

In a month or so when it breaks you can do it again a little smarter, maybe even wise enough to do it right.