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1911 Build.

Discussion in 'Handgun Discussion' started by shoggoth80, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    I took a plunge. I have developed a strong affinity for the 1911 design. I own one, want more. Ha ha ha! So, I decided that I am going to make my next one. It's going to be assembled largely from GI spec parts. I have almost everything parts wise to make a whole gun on order. Anyone on here built one before? I have some acquaintances who have lent me knowledge, and willing to even lend me tools for some of it. Worst to worst, I know a gunsmith who could do some of the more complex fitting operations for me.

    The basic run down:
    Armscor frame and slide. I own a RIA Tactical, I love the gun. STI uses Armscor frames, slides, and barrels in their Spartan model. RIA are nice for the price, and it's good enough for STI... it's good enough for me. Going to use mostly GI spec guts.

    I plan to recess my slide stop, and add a bolt on magwell, and an oversized mag release button. Stadard GI grip safety, safety, spur hammer (going to bob this a little). I am using Novak style sights, but I intend to blend them to the slide a bit as well. Going to have to do a lot of reading, and have a lot of patience. I also think that I will snub up my slide release lever a little, sort of mimic the slide release on the Springer Professional.

    Going to use a bull/conical barrel and reverse plug combo. I have read that flange type reverse plugs "retrofit" to a regular slide...so I am going to explore this. Very likely will use a full length guide rod to keep some extra weight out under the muzzle to keep flip down.

    Might as well go the extra step and use Allen head grip screws. They look good, so why not? Also thinking of adding an STI match trigger, instead of the GI trigger... or I can try my hand at skeltonizing the thing. The over-travel adjustment screw might be a nice touch though.

    I think that I am also going to do a basic dehorning of any rough edges I find. Probably use cold blue to protect the metal until I can apply a full finish. Basically mimic some of the features found on the higher end spectrum of 1911s by doing what can be done myself.

    Finishing is where I am a little confused about what route to take. Duracoat and Durabake both go over a parkerized finish well. Though, I am also looking into Aluma Hyde II, and Gun-Kote from Brownell's as options. Ease of application and durability is key here. Need more research. Anyone have experiences to share?

    This is being built as a fun gun, with a handful of my own touches to personalize it. This is my first 1911 build, but I am not a stranger to guns, or taking guns down here and there (mostly rifles though).
     
  2. asiparks

    asiparks PDX Active Member

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    good luck....

    don't use aluma hyde, it's rubbish, duracoat and other poly/ceramics do go well over park, are you going to do the park yourself ? If you are, why not just do a very dark blackish park and leave it at that ?
     
  3. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    I don't have the facilities to do a park job. With the blending and mods that I want to do, it'll remove some park finish, and leave exposed metal. I can paint ok, and this is why I am seriously considering a spray on finish. The Gun Kote stuff looks good. Seen some shots of it on finished firearms, and like it.
     
  4. huntpotter

    huntpotter SW WA Negotiator Bronze Supporter

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    I build 1 per year from the frame up. On the average. I usually go either all GI, to clone a 1911-A1 WW2 pistol. Or I do complete custom, so it comes out looking like a Kimber, or Springfield loaded.

    I've got extra performance parts, and some GI parts for sale if you need some.

    Also Southride Arms, supporting vendor here does excellent park jobs, for your GI. Or spray and bake. Take your time, and use quality tools.
     
  5. turq

    turq Molino,oregon Member

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    Sounds like fun. I read somewhere on fitting the grip safety etc. looked hard to do because of the compound angles/curves.
    I looked at the Fusion(ie. Dan Wesson ran Co.)frames and slides. They have a Titanium one that looked perfect for a Commander Lightweight. Yeah that is a great project! Good Luck and keep us posted here Please.
     
  6. wichaka

    wichaka Wa State Well-Known Member

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  7. MountainBear

    MountainBear Sweet Home, OR Well-Known Member

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    I really like to keep my builds with the old school look, but I have such a high grip that I almost have to build them with beavertail safeties. Kind of depressing. Very few things cooler looking than a WWII repro 1911A1...

    If you have any questions, be sure to post them. Besides being able to find answers from those of us that have done builds before, people can learn from the lessons you learn...
     
  8. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    Still waiting on my parts. It'll be a good week before I can start fitting and assembling. Been watching my internals through UPS tracking, and eagerly awaiting the call from the dealer I use. Downside is the frame that I ordered: The place I ordered from sent me a whole gun, not just a frame... so I have to wait for that to come in, then get it returned, and then wait for the frame, and the refund of the difference. This is the first time I ordered from said company, so they better make it right, because the internet is a powerful tool. I think they will though. I had already gone over many of the particulars with them.
     
  9. turq

    turq Molino,oregon Member

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    Maybe a little off topic but here goes; Caspian has a Recon full size Titanium frame with "surface porosity"(sp) for quite a discount something like $238.
    Not sure how extensive surface porosity could be. If it's 'in' the frame ...not good...???How many 1911s can a guy own and shoot?
    I bought my first 1911 two years ago and I have since wondered why it escaped me for so long; esp. since it has such a universal following. Nothing fits the hand and points close to it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2010
  10. huntpotter

    huntpotter SW WA Negotiator Bronze Supporter

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    shoggoth80.

    PMd you about some spare parts you were asking about. Slide stops and triggers.
     
  11. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    Cool. Replied back.
     
  12. gunjunky

    gunjunky Arlington, WA Active Member

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    I have built a number of 1911's now, some for me and a few for friends. It is very rewarding to build/assemble your own pistol. I have had good results and figuring out the problems when they come up is half the fun.

    Actually if you have a stove in your kitchen you can park, there is plenty of info on line and it is not really that hard.

    The blindhogg site is a fantastic source of info.

    GOOD LUCK!!! and have fun.
     
  13. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    I've already ordered materials needed to do a parker job. I just need to surf the 2nd hand stores for a suitable pot to do it all in. Have a propane camp stove, *maybe* that'll get the solution hot enough. Looks relatively simple to do. Need to get a blasting gun, and some media.
     
  14. BigBluePup

    BigBluePup S.W. Washington New Member

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    Whats your budget for this build? I was actually coming on here today to ask about building a 1911, I have been looking through the adds in Shotgun News and looking at some of the build kits and wondering what kind of product they come out like. I would love to do a home build but have novice level experience with this type of stuff....
    I will be watching your thread good luck!
     
  15. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    Got a bunch of parts in yesterday... mostly my frame/receiver guts. Some of them went back today, as they were not needed.

    I am a little angry at the place I ordered my frame from, as they sent the wrong thing, and it hasn't arrived at my dealer yet so I can have it sent back for a refund. Seriously thinking about just canceling the frame order form them, and buying an STI frame from Brownell's. I think for just starting, I have had to jump through too many hoops just to get the parts I wanted.

    Most of the bits from those build kits seem to be alright. I didn't have good luck with the recoil system in there...so that went back, and I ordered a Wilson FLGR, spring, and plug.

    The barrel that I snagged was one from Sarco as well... this cost a measly $50... and I think for the price I paid it was a good deal. Nice rifling in this one.

    100_0363.jpg
     
  16. huntpotter

    huntpotter SW WA Negotiator Bronze Supporter

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    Looks like you have a Videki trigger, and a Kimber slide stop, on the way.

    I've used Sarco/Roto barrels a couple times, they worked out fine. Got one in .400 Corbon too, can't beat $59 for a barrel.

    Another value is the Olympic Arms NM 1911 barrels. They are $80ish, and sometimes come with a matched bushing, or stainless. They are button rifled for lead bullets.
     
  17. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    Thanks for the heads up Hunt.
    By the way, that barrel is a bull barrel... not a roto. For the price, as long as you can hit with them, the barrels are probably hard to beat.

    I am seriously thinking about ditching the Sarco frame. It's been a hassle working with the company... and they sent a whole pistol instead of the frame, and some parts were out of spec and had to be sent back. I just don't have enough confidence that they are going to send me what I actually wanted. How do I know that I am not going to get an 80% or 60% frame? How about accidentally being sent a "gunsmith special" frame? I just don't think I can trust them to get me what I need.

    I am taking a really hard look at the Foster frames. Caspian, with a few small blemishes at a reduced price... I am going to refinish the metal anyway. A little higher quality, and something I could add to later. Say I get this project up and running... and I later want to toss in a higher end barrel and better slide (might camp Foster's webpage for that, there is some nice stuff on there)... I would feel out of place doing it on a bottom end frame. I have nothing against Armscor, I just want to build something a little different than what I already have. Initially I figured if Armscor stuff is good enough for STI, it's good enough for me to build with... but dealing with Sarco has left me wanting, and a little on the angry/paranoid side.

    If and when I decide to build a race gun, I'll probably get one of the race-ready frames, or get a Para wide body. BUT I want to make sure that I am able to get this first one off the ground. After all, you can never have too many 1911s can you?
     
  18. huntpotter

    huntpotter SW WA Negotiator Bronze Supporter

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    Yep the Sarco frame I worked on was junk. I think it was a second, it was missing holes, not counterbored where it needed to be, it took lots of work.

    Definitely start with a quality frame. Fusion sells a bare frame that is excellent quality. Talk to Bob Serva, he'll hook it up, and ships right away.

    Rock Island/Armscorp frames are affordable and Colt spec.

    I've had good luck with Essex frames too.

    Brownells always has the higher end Wilson or Caspian frames in stock, but they've been out of the basic Essex frame for a while.
     
  19. shoggoth80

    shoggoth80 Greater Seattle Area Member

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    "Brownells always has the higher end Wilson or Caspian frames in stock, but they've been out of the basic Essex frame for a while."
    -And Brownell's is out of stock on the STI frame I wanted, which is why I am considering other solid avenues. The STI they have in stock is a ramp cut frame. I don't want a ramped barrel... so that means that bit is ruled out.
     
  20. turq

    turq Molino,oregon Member

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    Call Caspian on the "clearance" Ti frame with surface porosity. I'm curious....How Much porosity?