1911 .45 damaging brass?

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I am new to the 1911 just got a taurus pt1911,and I am happy with the accuracy but when I collected the brass almost every one had a flat spot on the neck. I plan to reload and this could be a problem . I am looking for help from someone more experienced with this gun .

thanks Brutis
 
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Will that shorten the life of the brass straitening the case wall over and over ? I am more interested in why it happens slide spring to weak or to strong for the loads ? never had any other pistol do this

Brutis
 
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It is caused by the brass hitting the slide on ejection. You should see where it is hitting on ejection by brass marks on the slide. Nothing to worry about and won't shorten the life of your reloads. You have to resize everytime anyways and that dent doesn't do enough to shorten case life. Some 1911's have the area around the port scalloped to reduce this.

Head on over to the 1911forum and you will find this is a common occurence. They even have a section dedicated to PT1911's.
 
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Miles thanks for your help it is leaving marks strait up on the front of the ejection port on the slide . I will check out the 1911 forum. thanks again and have a good one!

Brutis
 
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Just wanted to add that you might be able to eliminate the problem by adjusting the extractor. The only problem is that you might go from no marks to reliablity problems. I would leave it alone. FWIW, my Baer CC does it as well.
 
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I'd say the extractor is probably dropping the case and the ejector is not able to hit hard enough to cleanly eject, as the extractor loses its grip on the rim. Check extractor tension first. Also, if it is an internal extractor make sure it is not rotating (clocking) slightly within its tunnel. A clocking extractor will extract inconsistently, brass will be flung in multiple directions and some of it will not make it out of the port.

To check for a clocking extractor. Remove the slide and barrel, while looking at the rear of the slide and watching the back of the extractor, push a shell up under the extractor hook (simulates a round feeding) and watch for the extractor to rotate a little. If it does, then you definitely will need an oversize firing pin stop.

Check the extractor hook to see if there is a radius on the bottom edge of the hook. This radius allows the shell to exit at a slight upward angle. A hook with a 90 degree (or real close to 90 degree) angle will not allow the shell to rotate up and out, just hard right.
 
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I'd say the extractor is probably dropping the case and the ejector is not able to hit hard enough to cleanly eject, as the extractor loses its grip on the rim. Check extractor tension first. Also, if it is an internal extractor make sure it is not rotating (clocking) slightly within its tunnel. A clocking extractor will extract inconsistently, brass will be flung in multiple directions and some of it will not make it out of the port.

To check for a clocking extractor. Remove the slide and barrel, while looking at the rear of the slide and watching the back of the extractor, push a shell up under the extractor hook (simulates a round feeding) and watch for the extractor to rotate a little. If it does, then you definitely will need an oversize firing pin stop.

Check the extractor hook to see if there is a radius on the bottom edge of the hook. This radius allows the shell to exit at a slight upward angle. A hook with a 90 degree (or real close to 90 degree) angle will not allow the shell to rotate up and out, just hard right.
Thanks wichaka this makes sense I have a very square extractor 90 deg. when I cycle shells by hand slow they barely come out I know now where to start funny I never had a jam ? thanks again
Brutis
 

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