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I personally wouldnt put a safe in a shed. No way the floor will take the weight, humidity issues and less security than inside the home. Keep the lawnmower in the shed. Keep the safe and contents in the house.
To be fair, the shed is our workshop, for reloading and what not. This isn't your normal garden shed style building.
 
Is your shed on a slab or piers? If on slab and you can fit under there, 4 bottle jacks and some bracing directly under the safe. Space them accordingly if you (I hope you are) plan on bolting down your safe.
 
Review the various considerations when 'putting it in the garage' as I've seen a number of saddog stories about the ease of unauthorized access via weak link garage door/etc. then driving up next to the victim/safe.
It's a detached structure that houses my office space and brewery. There is no rollup door access.
 
To be fair, the shed is our workshop, for reloading and what not. This isn't your normal garden shed style building.
Gotcha. I'm quite familiar with Tuff Shed stuff. They do make some fairly stout buildings, but they also make crap that barely qualifies as a "building".
 
It's stick built. Not sure what you are looking at.
They're all stick built. Their larger "shop" style ones are pretty good, the smaller ones for lawnmowers and such are pretty flimsy for a 1000+ pound safe.

That's all I was trying to say. Good luck with your project!
 
A common complaint with Tuff Sheds is that the hinges aren't heavy duty enough compared to the weight of the doors, which results in them sagging over time.
 
A common complaint with Tuff Sheds is that the hinges aren't heavy duty enough compared to the weight of the doors, which results in them sagging over time.
Yep, and I've been in several that had sagging floors with a fairly normal amount of yard tools and such.
 
To the folks placing a safe on a sheet of plywood to "spread the load," please be aware that it would take a very thick cross section with a large footprint area to reduce stress appreciably. The "stress pyramid" below a concentrated load is reduced little to none with a thin sheet and a thin/flexible sheet will not have a stress transferred to it equally over its entire area. A better idea is to sister the floor joists below it if possible and to ensure it is away from center of span. A large safe might not appear to cause damage to a flooring system initially but creep will sag an entire house corner if not careful.

In the case of a shed with concrete slab on grade or perhaps some shallow spread footings, you're still not out of the woods. A heavy safe placed in the corner will cause differential settlement and structure damage if the slab's granular base is insufficient or the soil below contains organics, wasn't properly dried, or contains fill of questionable origin.
 
From my findings many state that average sheds can hold 20lbs per square foot. Supposedly giving the average shed about a 2400lbs weight capacity.
That's sounds about right for 2x8 construction. If your safe takes up 10 square feet and weighs 400# that's about twice what the joists should be able to support. I would look at adding some pier blocks under the joists directly beneath the safe.
 
So I decided to turn the shed into a safe.

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It's not perfect but it is where all my tools and reloading gear is so my goal was to harden the whole structure. I have cameras and a security system. My next trick will be to replace the latch with an electronic strike.

The bolts through the frame are so that if some ne'er do well tries to get smart and take the externally facing hinges off the door won't come free. Now they'll have to deal with the latch.
 
600lb magnetic lock installed. Pain in the butt to install on this kind of door, but about two hours later I got it.


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Found a nice door release switch on Amazon for $15.

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Now I gotta clean up the wiring. CAT5E cable may be a little undersized but it's hard to beat eight conductors in such a small bundle.
 

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