Getting into reloading, where should I start?

[2ndtimer]

Not yet. Obviously eyes and ears, but other than that, not really. Figured I'd just point and click, and hope for the best. Any suggestions on that note?

Next batch you might consider loading in 5 or 10 round batches, working up in small increments of your powder charge., say 24.3, 24.6, 24.9, 25.2, 25.5 to see if there is an accuracy node. Eventually, if you follow what most of us do, you will want to try it with bullets capable of better accuracy than generic 55 gr FMJ. (If you elect to stick with a 55 gr FMJBT, my experience has even that Hornady has shown the best accuracy potential, but significantly less potential than Hollow Points, soft points or plastic tipped bullets.). Or you can just swallow hard and buy name brand match bullets like Nosler, Berger, or Sierra depending on your budget.
Again, if you follow the usual path, you will find that you don't really save money, you just get to shoot more and eventually shoot better as you discover the best loads and practice more. If you do hunt, you will also experience the satisfaction of taking game with your own precision handloads. Very satisfying.

 

[oremike]

Not yet. Obviously eyes and ears, but other than that, not really. Figured I'd just point and click, and hope for the best. Any suggestions on that note?

What I do for a first test is go to a gun range with benches and 100 yard targets. Fire 5 rounds aiming at exactly the same spot every time. Shoot slow, aim small. Don't worry about hitting the bullseye, you can adjust to that later. This first time is about how does it feel, cycle and group. Take notes because trying to remember the details months later is impossible, at least for me. Again this is about getting a repeatable benchmark to compare future loads to.

 

[ageingstudent]

Not yet. Obviously eyes and ears, but other than that, not really. Figured I'd just point and click, and hope for the best. Any suggestions on that note?

I would definitely write your powder charges on the side of your cases. That way, if you drop them or knock them off the bench, they won't get mixed up. I like to do it with a black Sharpie. Don't ask me how I found out that's a good idea.

 

[DizzyJ]

I'll do that. I guess I'm not gonna crimp. On another note...
View attachment 1889575
I slowly ran one in the sizing die without the decapping stem to see if I could get it to take shape and I think I made a +p ... yeah, I'm gonna don't do that again...
I'm definitely learning what not to do.

You shouldn't have to crimp bottle necked brass if you have sufficient neck tension.

 

[DizzyJ]

Is a .005 or a .01 difference in the case length going to matter? After resizing and trimming some of my cases weren't even up to 1.75 And spec is 1.76, I trimmed everything that was over 1.755, But they are not all exact.

It can if you're crimping depending on the crimp die.

 

[Richo877]

It can if you're crimping depending on the crimp die.

I found that out. The bag of range brass I'm working out of has quite a bit of different cases. Been sorting them as I clean them and I've come across cases that are anywhere from 1.765 to around 1.74. I figure I can trim them to be more uniform down to 1.745 but I don't think I want to go all the way down to 1.74 for all of them. I guess it won't really matter at all if I decide not to crimp, but for a light crimp, I'd like to get them all uniform.

 

[Mikej]

I found that out. The bag of range brass I'm working out of has quite a bit of different cases. Been sorting them as I clean them and I've come across cases that are anywhere from 1.765 to around 1.74. I figure I can trim them to be more uniform down to 1.745 but I don't think I want to go all the way down to 1.74 for all of them. I guess it won't really matter at all if I decide not to crimp, but for a light crimp, I'd like to get them all uniform.

If you have a book that gives only "Trim To" you can go .010" over that. The Speer 14 book gives "trim to", and maximum length. Only one cartridge I've seen in that book that isn't that way is .30-30. And Speer says Trim To: 2.030" and Max Length: 2.0395".
Personally, I don't necessarily trim to the minimum on the first reload. I do make a point of having brass length be within a couple or three thousandths.

 

[Richo877]

If you have a book that gives only "Trim To" you can go .010" over that. The Speer 14 book gives "trim to", and maximum length. Only one cartridge I've seen in that book that isn't that way is .30-30. And Speer says Trim To: 2.030" and Max Length: 2.0395".
Personally, I don't necessarily trim to the minimum on the first reload. I do make a point of having brass length be within a couple or three thousandths.

That's why I kinda figured I'd trim to 1.745" since the shortest cases I've found so far are 1.742". I'd have to look it up again, but I think the min is 1.72, which is going unnecessarily short. Case length doesn't affect seating depth and COL right? I've only found 2 resources for using Benchmark in .223 rem 55gr fmjbt, that's directly from hodgdon and another from Lehigh. It's not in the Sierra volume I've got or in my Speer manual.

 

[Mikej]

That's why I kinda figured I'd trim to 1.745" since the shortest cases I've found so far are 1.742". I'd have to look it up again, but I think the min is 1.72, which is going unnecessarily short. Case length doesn't affect seating depth and COL right? I've only found 2 resources for using Benchmark in .223 rem 55gr fmjbt, that's directly from hodgdon and another from Lehigh. It's not in the Sierra volume I've got or in my Speer manual.

To ME, uniformity, within spec, is what is important because it affects crimping. Especially if you are using the seating die for crimping. Not quite so much when using the Lee factory roll crimp die.

 

[ageingstudent]

That's why I kinda figured I'd trim to 1.745" since the shortest cases I've found so far are 1.742". I'd have to look it up again, but I think the min is 1.72, which is going unnecessarily short. Case length doesn't affect seating depth and COL right? I've only found 2 resources for using Benchmark in .223 rem 55gr fmjbt, that's directly from hodgdon and another from Lehigh. It's not in the Sierra volume I've got or in my Speer manual.

So just to clarify, you are sizing and decapping before you trim your brass right? Bottle neck cases grow 2 different ways. They grow from firing, but they also grow from resizing. If you trim them before you size them it won't do you any good for case length consistency.

 

[Richo877]

So just to clarify, you are sizing and decapping before you trim your brass right? Bottle neck cases grow 2 different ways. They grow from firing, but they also grow from resizing. If you trim them before you size them it won't do you any good for case length consistency.

Yes, all the brass I'm working with I've already cleaned, sized, decapped, cleaned primer pockets, chamfered crimped pockets, cleaned again, inspected and checked for headspace. I don't want to trim, prime, or load anymore until I've had some range time. Might try my hand at 9mm and .45 acp in the meantime.

 

[ageingstudent]

Yes, all the brass I'm working with I've already cleaned, sized, decapped, cleaned primer pockets, chamfered crimped pockets, cleaned again, inspected and checked for headspace. I don't want to trim, prime, or load anymore until I've had some range time. Might try my hand at 9mm and .45 acp in the meantime.

Straight wall cases are easier. Good place to start. I started with 22-250