Getting into reloading, where should I start?

[ageingstudent]

^^ This right here ^^ is my primary goal. I need something to focus on and tinker with. I don't have much going on aside from work and home life and it's a hobby I want to spend time on. I've been saying for years that I'd like to get into reloading, but I've never taken the initiative to kick it off. I just needed to set the ball rolling. I completely understand it's not going to save me much money until much later on, but it's a much more affordable hobby than many and it's definitely cheaper than the $200 nights out at the bar I used to throw away multiple times a week. I've been sober for 5+ years now, so I've saved myself THOUSANDS of dollars. I can justify the initial cost based on that alone. In 10-20 years, I may be looking at actual savings, but for now, I'm paying out for much needed recreation, and $1k for multiple years of sanity is a very reasonable expense.


I'm lucky in that regard; my wife supports all of it completely. *for now*

I don't know how much you shoot on a weekly basis right now, but if you really enjoy it, you can expect to double or triple your shooting. That's why we always laugh about reloading to save money. It really just allows you to shoot a heck of a lot more. Once you get rolling, if you have ammo and components built up, It's very easy to justify going to the range for an extra day or 2 of a week to test out some ammo. and do some blasting. It's also very easy to take friends out and let them shoot the heck out of your ammo. It will make you a better shooter in the end.

Have fun with it and be safe and don't be afraid to ask questions.

 

[Benchrest]

Late to reply, but:



Buy the book, read the book, read it again. Follow manu load data (free).

Be diligent, pay attention, double check everything until you're completely comfortable.

Heck, PM me and I'll send you my copy, send it back when you're done!

ETA (what's probably been already said): Plunk (drop) test every new workup in the barrel(s) of the gun you intend to fire the round in, understand what it means, understand what setback is (especially in straight / tapered walled cartridges.). Understand the two different types of crimps, and and what happens if they're not done properly (see setback). Understand case flare and the minimum needed, understand what work-hardening the brass means. A million simple little things that can make a big difference.

Don't be Benchrest and hammer the slide closed on a service 9mm, thrice tripping the chrono @ high 1,300s with a 124gr load

 

[Local Loader]

Go pickup a copy Handloader Magazine June issue, good 223 load info in it and 9mm and a copy of "Ammunition Reloading Guide Learn How to Reload" is included with it.

 

[DunRanull]

.38/.357 is a good simple place to begin reloading. Necked down, much easier than trying to reload necked cartridges. Personal experience anyway.

 

[JRuby]

It kind of depends on how many guns you reload for and how many rounds. When I moved to my current home it took me a U Haul trailer just for my reloaded ammunition, powder, tools, etc ...
It can take up a lot of space. Currently a quarter of my barn is my reloading area. I agree your first stop should be the front of a reloading manual

 

[2ndtimer]

I'm not sure how I feel about simultaneously pressing the primer, but I've read a bit of reviews saying folks don't use it and end up using a hand press regardless. It seems cumbersome to work with, and on the plus side, the rebel will be easier to maintain.

If you wind up using some of the more affordable available primers like Ginex or Servicio & Aventuras, you might regret not having the Rockchucker priming capability. Those primers seem to require very firm seating to be reliable and the compound leverage of the press provides it without wearing out your hands. My Rockchucker is about 42 years old and still going strong and I still use its priming system after wearing out several Lee Auto-Primes, and RCBS hand primer systems. I do like my current Frankford Arsenal Platinum hand priming tool.
Good luck with your new hobby. Plenty of people on here with a LOT of experience and the ability to agree to disagree

 

[Richo877]

If you wind up using some of the more affordable available primers like Ginex or Servicio & Aventuras, you might regret not having the Rockchucker priming capability. Those primers seem to require very firm seating to be reliable and the compound leverage of the press provides it without wearing out your hands. My Rockchucker is about 42 years old and still going strong and I still use its priming system after wearing out several Lee Auto-Primes, and RCBS hand primer systems. I do like my current Frankford Arsenal Platinum hand priming tool.
Good luck with your new hobby. Plenty of people on here with a LOT of experience and the ability to agree to disagree

Thank you! I'm not necessarily opposed to it, I just made the choice and I'll see if I like what I got. Since it's all new either way, I'll learn with it and go from there.

 

[2ndtimer]

Thank you! I'm not necessarily opposed to it, I just made the choice and I'll see if I like what I got. Since it's all new either way, I'll learn with it and go from there.

If you stick with U.S. primers, CCI, Federal, Winchester and Remington, you won't have any issues. But they tend to run $70 (if you are lucky) to the more common $80 to $100 per thousand. I recently was able to order the Servicio & Aventuras primers that are imported from Argentina for $50 per thousand delivered (no additional charges for haz mat and shipping). Once you get started reloading, the next step is trying to find the best deals on components. Prices for primers and powder have really gone up the past 4 years (basically doubled for powder and more than tripled for domestic primers )

 

[SuperBreed]

With regards to priming, I started out using a RCBS bench prime. It is great for bulk loading. I've loaded thousands of 223 with it. I started out with a RCBs JR2. It came with the priming arm but since I had been using the bench primer I continued. Once I started loading for 45-70, I started using the priming arm on the press. I've since upgraded to a RC2. I still use the priming arm on the JR to prime all rifle cartridges above 223. It has a great feel and just works. For bulk I still use the bench, but for small batches you can't beat the priming system on the older RCBS presses. I have no experience with newer models.

 

[Mikej]

Just remembered...If you'll be loading .223/5.56, maybe .308/7.62 NATO? You'll need to swage the crimps from the primer pockets..

https://www.google.com/search?q=primer+pocket+swager&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS849US849&oq=Primer+pocket+s&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggAEAAY4wIYgAQyCggAEAAY4wIYgAQyCggBEC4YgAQY5QQyBwgCEAAYgAQyBggDEEUYOTIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABDIHCAkQABiABKgCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The basic RCBS press swager is what I opted for. because I'm frugal. I did use the Blue Dillon model that a member loaned me. It was real sweet to use.

 

[Richo877]

With regards to priming, I started out using a RCBS bench prime. It is great for bulk loading. I've loaded thousands of 223 with it. I started out with a RCBs JR2. It came with the priming arm but since I had been using the bench primer I continued. Once I started loading for 45-70, I started using the priming arm on the press. I've since upgraded to a RC2. I still use the priming arm on the JR to prime all rifle cartridges above 223. It has a great feel and just works. For bulk I still use the bench, but for small batches you can't beat the priming system on the older RCBS presses. I have no experience with newer models.

Just remembered...If you'll be loading .223/5.56, maybe .308/7.62 NATO? You'll need to swage the crimps from the primer pockets..

https://www.google.com/search?q=primer+pocket+swager&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS849US849&oq=Primer+pocket+s&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggAEAAY4wIYgAQyCggAEAAY4wIYgAQyCggBEC4YgAQY5QQyBwgCEAAYgAQyBggDEEUYOTIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABDIHCAkQABiABKgCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The basic RCBS press swager is what I opted for. because I'm frugal. I did use the Blue Dillon model that a member loaned me. It was real sweet to use.

Another member brought this up to me also. He uses the Frankford Arsenal platinum swager, which looked pretty nice and seems to have great function. I have quite a bit of dirty .223/5.56 I got from another member I'll separate after they're clean and decapped. I'm hoping I have enough non crimped in the mix to load some before dropping more $$ on a swager. It's gotten pretty spendy already! My press won't be here until tomorrow, but I got some fiocchi small rifle primers at bimart and some 55gr .22 cal projectiles from another member and a couple powders from other members. I have everything for .223 now. I've been doing some reading and watching a lot of tutorials and instructional videos, been reading through load data and comparing charges, and I've gotten a lot of useful tips from members here. All-in-all, I think I've got everything I need to load .223, plus another one of our members sold me dies for 9mm, which I really didn't plan to load at first, but they were a good deal, so I sourced some components for those as well. I just need the shell holder now and I'll be set for 9mm too, and i have everything I need for some .45 as well... yeah, it's been spendy... Most of the components I've gotten have been locally for (I believe) relatively good prices, but i got some powder and large pistol primers from Midway that I may have paid too much for, but after shipping and hazmat it breaks down to about .09cpr on primers and about $45/lb for the powder. Definitely got in over my head too soon, but I'll be set for components and have a few thousand rounds worth of learning while I tinker. And if tshtf, I have resources.

 

[Local Loader]

Another member brought this up to me also. He uses the Frankford Arsenal platinum swager, which looked pretty nice and seems to have great function. I have quite a bit of dirty .223/5.56 I got from another member I'll separate after they're clean and decapped. I'm hoping I have enough non crimped in the mix to load some before dropping more $$ on a swager. It's gotten pretty spendy already! My press won't be here until tomorrow, but I got some fiocchi small rifle primers at bimart and some 55gr .22 cal projectiles from another member and a couple powders from other members. I have everything for .223 now. I've been doing some reading and watching a lot of tutorials and instructional videos, been reading through load data and comparing charges, and I've gotten a lot of useful tips from members here. All-in-all, I think I've got everything I need to load .223, plus another one of our members sold me dies for 9mm, which I really didn't plan to load at first, but they were a good deal, so I sourced some components for those as well. I just need the shell holder now and I'll be set for 9mm too, and i have everything I need for some .45 as well... yeah, it's been spendy... Most of the components I've gotten have been locally for (I believe) relatively good prices, but i got some powder and large pistol primers from Midway that I may have paid too much for, but after shipping and hazmat it breaks down to about .09cpr on primers and about $45/lb for the powder. Definitely got in over my head too soon, but I'll be set for components and have a few thousand rounds worth of learning while I tinker. And if tshtf, I have resources.

If you're worried about crimps or tight primer pockets, I use a pocket uniform/reamer tool to insure they are all the same size and it remove the crimp as well. The tool is relatively cheap to get.

 

[PA31350]

I can proabably hook you up with a package of everything needed to get started.
I also have primers and powder.
Call me
Arthur
503 330 3978

 

[Mikej]

Another member brought this up to me also. He uses the Frankford Arsenal platinum swager, which looked pretty nice and seems to have great function. I have quite a bit of dirty .223/5.56 I got from another member I'll separate after they're clean and decapped. I'm hoping I have enough non crimped in the mix to load some before dropping more $$ on a swager. It's gotten pretty spendy already! My press won't be here until tomorrow, but I got some fiocchi small rifle primers at bimart and some 55gr .22 cal projectiles from another member and a couple powders from other members. I have everything for .223 now. I've been doing some reading and watching a lot of tutorials and instructional videos, been reading through load data and comparing charges, and I've gotten a lot of useful tips from members here. All-in-all, I think I've got everything I need to load .223, plus another one of our members sold me dies for 9mm, which I really didn't plan to load at first, but they were a good deal, so I sourced some components for those as well. I just need the shell holder now and I'll be set for 9mm too, and i have everything I need for some .45 as well... yeah, it's been spendy... Most of the components I've gotten have been locally for (I believe) relatively good prices, but i got some powder and large pistol primers from Midway that I may have paid too much for, but after shipping and hazmat it breaks down to about .09cpr on primers and about $45/lb for the powder. Definitely got in over my head too soon, but I'll be set for components and have a few thousand rounds worth of learning while I tinker. And if tshtf, I have resources.

I found that a lot of .223 is crimped. And I "think" all 5.56 is. (correction welcomed) You can get by, I think, with...

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool

You're really going to hate that job after awhile. so....

Amazon.com

For later when you want your finger to go straight again...

Amazon.com

One more thing, if you haven't already?

Amazon.com

This is fun spending your money. You can save a bunch by going to collector shows in your area. And, of course, watching the classifieds here. Pretty much all my more expensive processing tools was bought used. Try contacting @misterarman about some of your needs

 

[Local Loader]

I found that a lot of .223 is crimped. And I "think" all 5.56 is. (correction welcomed) You can get by, I think, with...

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool

You're really going to hate that job after awhile. so....

Amazon.com

For later when you want your finger to go straight again...

Amazon.com

One more thing, if you haven't already?

Amazon.com

This is fun spending your money. You can save a bunch by going to collector shows in your area. And, of course, watching the classifieds here. Pretty much all my more expensive processing tools was bought used. Try contacting @misterarman about some of your needs

Yeah I attach mine to a drill to make it easier.

 

[Richo877]

I can proabably hook you up with a package of everything needed to get started.
I also have primers and powder.
Call me
Arthur
503 330 3978

I think I have the basics for everything I need, I'm just waiting on delivery and gathering some components now. I'm sure once I really dig into things I'll find out I need something else, but I started some basic cleaning on some .223 brass today.


About an hour in rice with a couple wads of nevrdull. I just got some actual corn cob media, nu finish, and mineral spirits at bimart so I can give another batch a run and see what it looks like. Still haven't made it back home yet, I'm picking my daughter up from school on the way. The rice did a pretty decent job, but dumping those cases out was a little annoying.

 

[Mikej]

I think I have the basics for everything I need, I'm just waiting on delivery and gathering some components now. I'm sure once I really dig into things I'll find out I need something else, but I started some basic cleaning on some .223 brass today.

View attachment 1885365
About an hour in rice with a couple wads of nevrdull. I just got some actual corn cob media, nu finish, and mineral spirits at bimart so I can give another batch a run and see what it looks like. Still haven't made it back home yet, I'm picking my daughter up from school on the way. The rice did a pretty decent job, but dumping those cases out was a little annoying.

Here to help again...

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/cabelas-rotary-brass-media-separator?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Cabelas%7CShopping%7CPMax%7CProprietary%7CGeneral%7CNAud%7CNVol%7CNMT&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz193qavcPymv5LRzXMftc2lG8V8inNE76MH9fLhdgx1gJ37oLG6ZHR4aArpkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I got mine used. Before that I had a wire basket, in a plastic tub, and would pour the brass and media in that and shake it until most was out. Then i'd take it outside and toss it in the basket until it was empty. I also have a compressor and blew the dust of as best I could. And I'd put the brass in a pillow case and shake it around good the get the rest of the dust off.

 

[Mikej]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Agra-Grit-Walnut-Shell-Sandblasting-Coarse-Grit-10-lb-per-Box-BGC10/204068216

I looked at Petsmart and their walnut media was a real fine grind. And kind of expensive it seemed.

 

[Richo877]

Any tips on cleaning the inside of .223 cases, or does it even matter as long as there's no debris?

 

[2ndtimer]

Any tips on cleaning the inside of .223 cases, or does it even matter as long as there's no debris?

A lot of us have switched from vibratory case cleaning to liquid tumbling with or without steel pins. Gets cases shiny clean inside and out. Even cleans primer pockets if you use the stainless steel pins. I use Dawn and Lemishine and only use the pins on really cruddy brass.