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Just picked up a new to me 357 that has had a target trigger job done. Should this trigger be so light that when you put in single action and just touch the hammer it goes off? I mean I like a light trigger but this seems to be too light? Thoughts?
 
S&W factory triggers are incredible. If you are unfamiliar with S&W revolvers, it will seem like a trigger job because they are so fine out of the factory. If you have other S&W's to compare to or experience with them you should be able to spot a slicked up action. My 686 in single action is very light, but no lighter than it should be. If it feels to light for you, I will take off your hands! Kip
 
I have a S&W 44 and I know what the factory trigger feels like(love it), previous owner said he had a target trigger job and hammer done, and it is so light that when put in single action and bump the hammer it will go off. I guess I have to get used to it or return it to factory.
 
There are different kinds of trigger jobs available through a comepetent 'smith. I had COMBAT trigger jobs done on my .38, 357 and my .45. Grittiness gone, smooth, 4-5 single action pull. I did a TARGET job on my Bullseye pistol, which measures at 22 oz, which could be construed to be pretty light.
 
I might have this wrong but I believe the trigger has to be held back for the revolver to actually fire. If you just bump the hammer and it releases, the trigger should go forward with the hammer and engage the hammer block safety. 686 is a pretty new design and I think incorporated this. Quick way to check, cock it to single action and touch the hammer again while watching in between the cylinder and the frame to see if the firing pin shows. Keep finger off trigger and revolver unloaded of course. IF you aren't sure if you are seeing it, take a piece of aluminum foil and wrap around primer of a fired casing. Insert casing in cylinder and align to firing position. Cock to single action and repeat. If you see a firing pin strike then thats unsafe. I could be wrong about this though as it has been a while since I have taken the side plate off a 686. I just did a 386 though and it has the trigger disconnector hammer block thingy in there to prevent the gun from firing in such an event as unintended hammer fall as you describe.
 
It shouldn't go off by touching the hammer.If it does the smith went a little too far with the polish stone.
Yes the trigger is light but not so that the hammer 'pushes' off
 
I have a 686 that was one of 500 "National Match" guns done by Bill Davis back in 89 - It has about the best trigger jobs I've ever seen. I have never had the hammer drop from being bumped or pushed. I have a friend that has a 686 that is just a hair lighter on the trigger than mine but it is picky about primers if you want it to be reliable - he has to run Federal primers for reliability if I recall correctly. He doesn't have any issues with the hammer dropping without pulling the trigger either. Let me know if you want to compare the trigger pull.
 
Your pistol has hammer push off! Best to get it fixed.

Its an easy fix! The catch surface on the hammer just needs to be deepend up just a few thou and you will be good to go.
 
Thanks guys, had a chance to shoot it last night and the trigger is light but manageable. Does have hammer push off and will get it checked out. Must say this is a beautiful 357 Distinguished Combat 357 with 8 3/8 full lug barrell and perfect rosewood grips, matches my 44 to a tee only I have Pachmyer grips on the 44. Thanks Shadow4868!
 
My wife has an unmolested 686 Plus. The trigger out of the box is heavy, but it gets lighter and smoother over time. The single action trigger also gets lighter over time, and it's scary light. My wife is pretty fond of it just like it is, but she shoots it SA only. I had a round head downrange a little sooner than intended, so it DAO for me.
 

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