Flyers and revolvers

[boogerhook]

Hello all,
I am shooting a new revolver, and my 10 yd groups are somewhere in the 5-6" range, for 4 but one flyer. I have not yet tested whether the flyer always comes from the same cylinder chamber, but I found it weird to have this happen consistently. Have shot some 160 rounds so far.

I heard that "forcing cones" can do that to a bullet. Anyone know?

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[Stomper]

Does it always fly in the same direction and same approximate distance? Is it always the same shot fired (regardless of which cylinder)? Could it be you are either jerking the trigger or anticipating the shot and pushing it w/o realizing it?

The best way would be to shoot it on a secure bench rest to see if you still have a flyer. If your talking about SP101 you recently purchased, I doubt it's because the barrel is warping from heating up.

 

[boogerhook]

Does it always fly in the same direction and same approximate distance? Is it always the same shot fired (regardless of which cylinder)? Could it be you are either jerking the trigger or anticipating the shot and pushing it w/o realizing it?

The best way would be to shoot it on a secure bench rest to see if you still have a flyer. If your talking about SP101 you recently purchased, I doubt it's because the barrel is warping from heating up.

Yes, it's the SP101. It would be strange for me to jerk just 1 of 5. But now that I am thinking about it, most of my rounds were .38 SP. The 357 JHP - only shot 15 or so were better ... need to investigate this. Will let you know what I find.

 

[Sgt Nambu]

I always test shoot a new gun, hand or rifle, from a solid rest of sandbags or a rifle sled. I need to know what the weapon does before I toss in my quirks and faults!
It's not a bad idea to pattern a new shotgun or a new choke tube either. Shoot carefully and if you get flyers mark which chamber is throwing them. This should get you on your way to figuring out the problem. Good Luck to you! SRG

 

[ron]

Cylinders can be measured to see if one varies from the others. I have found that
shooting 38s in 357 can give not to good accuracy. The cylinder has a taper at the
end of the 357 case centering the case in the cylinder. The shorter 38 special case
does not center up as well in the cylinder. What I have done is load a low velocity
38 special power level in the longer 357 case. Problem solved.
My two favorite 357 loads are.
158 SWC Lead/4.5 grains Unique/357 case Low power target load.
125 JHP/18.5 grains H110/357 case Magnum load. Prefer Remington 125 grain
Golden Saber bullets.
As with any load you should always check it with a good reloading
manual. If you do not reload YET? The 38/357 is a great cartridge to start
with. Love these one caliber load books. Reprints from all major load manuals.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/44...d-rifle-reloading-manual?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

[boogerhook]

Gold Dot makes a soft shooting 357 in 135gr. ME is around 300 flbs, almost half the standard load. I put another 100, and I noticed that that the .38SPs were keyholing whereas the 357s did not. Locking the elbow helped quite a bit too, just not used to it anymore shooting semis mostly.

thanks for all the advise and info

 

[erudne]

wrap a paper bag around your revolver and fire a full cylinder to see if one chamber is spitting lead out the side. do not wrap the bag too tight as the escaping gas will blow the bag apart