Thread: On a outdoor use revolver how much better is stainless?

I personally prefer the look of the blue finish, and often is a little less expensive than the stainless finish. Knowing that I may pack this along on some outdoor weekend trips, I'm wondering if it'd be prudent to get it in stainless.

Suppose I open carry and spend a weekend hiking through the cascades with moderate rain. Is that a recipe for disaster with blued finish?

Is there a holster solution which would mitigate exposure to moisture?

Is it just some extra care on my part to keep blue in good condition in the wet?
Thanks

Ibpbp

I personally prefer the look of the blue finish, and often is a little less expensive than the stainless finish. Knowing that I may pack this along on some outdoor weekend trips, I'm wondering if it'd be prudent to get it in stainless.

Suppose I open carry and spend a weekend hiking through the cascades with moderate rain. Is that a recipe for disaster with blued finish? YES

Is there a holster solution which would mitigate exposure to moisture? A Shoulder holster under your goretex parka

Is it just some extra care on my part to keep blue in good condition in the wet?
Thanks Disassemble, clean it, lube it, store it with dessicant. Repeat.

Get an alloy "Airlite" Smith J frame in black (442, 438, 340, 360); tough, reliable,easy to clean and light.

Originally Posted by Trlsmn

Ibpbp

What does this mean?

This may sound off topic, but this was part of the catalyst for my inquiry.

I was recently reading Col. Cooper's book (ride, shoot straight...) on his section describing a "Scout rifle". In the case of a rifle, he did not prefer stainless, due to difficulty in machining, quality control and couple other aspects I can't recall. It struck me as odd, since by definition a "scout rifle" is a field gun - and almost guaranteed to get moist at some point.

Originally Posted by smurf hunter

This may sound off topic, but this was part of the catalyst for my inquiry.

I was recently reading Col. Cooper's book (ride, shoot straight...) on his section describing a "Scout rifle". In the case of a rifle, he did not prefer stainless, due to difficulty in machining, quality control and couple other aspects I can't recall. It struck me as odd, since by definition a "scout rifle" is a field gun - and almost guaranteed to get moist at some point.

Jeff Cooper...A Legend in His Own Mind!

Sorry, I realize he's got lots of practical knowledge, and some wisdom, but I just can't buy everything he sells.

As far as blued vs. stainless, I find myself using my 629 in weather I would never take a nicely finished Mod. 29 out in. But that's just me.

Originally Posted by RobertJ.

Jeff Cooper...A Legend in His Own Mind!

Sorry, I realize he's got lots of practical knowledge, and some wisdom, but I just can't buy everything he sells.

As far as blued vs. stainless, I find myself using my 629 in weather I would never take a nicely finished Mod. 29 out in. But that's just me.

I'm not a S&W expert, but don't both those revolvers come in stainless and blue? Not sure what your point is regarding finish

Originally Posted by smurf hunter

I'm not a S&W expert, but don't both those revolvers come in stainless and blue? Not sure what your point is regarding finish

S&W prefix their stainless revolvers with a "6" so 629 is the SS version of the 29 44 mag.

ibpbp = In Before PlayBoy Penguin.....


I would also go stainless, not blued. Blued is beautiful, but outside and around moisture it offers little protection to the underlying carbon steel against the elements, plus it's bound to get dropped down into a rocky cravass at some point or kicked across a driveway and that will completely uglify the finish

The 629 is only in stainless. The Model 29 came in blue or nickle finish.

Blued finishes simply require more immediate attention to wetness. Stainless will rust eventually, but not as quickly as blued. I've carried both, and just have to make sure you do routine maintenance at night when you stop (i.e. dry everything off). When you get home, gut the revolver and oil it with some good breakfree. Then the next say use a good gun scrubber and then re-assemble with proper oil application.

As for wearing a holster under a gore-tex parka, be careful. I find I often sweat under gore-tex. As much as they tell us it breaths well, that's not always the case. And sweat (with its high salt content) will often rust a gun quicker than rain water.

All this being said, my preference is to carry a stainless gun. I usually either pack a stainless revolver or my stainless 1911...

All good considerations and I've learned some S&W nomenclature.

Since I've been looking for a moderate priced, full frame 357 (my first revolver ~$500 budget), I was looking at used model 27/28, Ruger Service Six or even new Ruger GP100. For weight reasons a full frame, even in 4" at 2.5 lbs. is not going to be ideal to pack on a hike. I'm thinking if I really end up enjoy shooting a 357 revolver, I might eventually get a smaller frame (SP101?) that doesn't shoot as nice, but is easier to pack.

I have to admit, I really dig the blue finish on the new GP100. Not a bad looking/feeling wheel gun for $499.

While a "trail gun" is a potential use, it's a distant 3rd behind range and nightstand duty. I was just wondering if

I may pack this along on some outdoor weekend trips, I'm wondering if it'd be prudent to get it in stainless.

Since it's only weekends and occasionally, blue is no big deal. Maintenance tips above.

I use a 629 and 686 as a woods gun in the Cascades. Sometimes I take my 27 just because I hate leaving it only in the nightstand. I had a 66 I used to, but traded it for a nickel 19. That will get woods use, too. I big point is to get grips off and clean/lube underneath if the gun gets very damp or wet.

Originally Posted by smurf hunter

All good considerations and I've learned some S&W nomenclature.

Since I've been looking for a moderate priced, full frame 357 (my first revolver ~$500 budget), I was looking at used model 27/28, Ruger Service Six or even new Ruger GP100. For weight reasons a full frame, even in 4" at 2.5 lbs. is not going to be ideal to pack on a hike. I'm thinking if I really end up enjoy shooting a 357 revolver, I might eventually get a smaller frame (SP101?) that doesn't shoot as nice, but is easier to pack.

I have to admit, I really dig the blue finish on the new GP100. Not a bad looking/feeling wheel gun for $499.

While a "trail gun" is a potential use, it's a distant 3rd behind range and nightstand duty. I was just wondering if

Even though I normally carry a 1911, I carry the KGP-141 (K = stainless in Ruger nomenclature btw) in the exact same situation as you, and highly recommend it. A great gun for hiking, fun at the range, and a good HD gun IMO, but I'm partial to revolvers. I bet you could find one in your price range if you shop around.

Stainless is not necessarily "better" than blue, but sure is easier to care for. Some new revolvers are being made from stainless steel with a black finish for the more traditional look. S&W Nightguard series should be a good choice.

"he did not prefer stainless, due to difficulty in machining, quality control"

The advancements in metalurgy and machining since Jeff Cooper's time make this statement...well, old.

Just like any advise given in his time about cars, applied today, would be laughable.

Just sayin'
Tilos