Thread: Bullseye powder?

I started reloading 30 years ago and a book recommended Bullseye as a powder for beginners. I sold all my reloading stuff after I got married. After my wife left and I finished raising my two daughters, I bought new reloading gear and bought Bullseye powder again. I have reloaded probably 2000 rounds with this powder, but could it be time to try something with a little more punch?
I use the Speer Maunual #14 and I find many of the listings for certain bullet weights don't even list Bullseye powder as an option.
I load .45 acp, .45 long colt, 9mm, .38 special, .357 magnum, and .40 caliber.
Any suggestions what powder would be good to sit next to my container of Bullseye?
Or should I just stick with what seems to be working?
Thanks

I have found Power Pistol to be really nice for .40 S&W, .45ACP, and 9MM. On the .40, I did tests with Unique and a couple of other powders. I got tighter groups, and considerable less felt recoils while maintaining velocity. I still need to do the side by side tests with .45 and 9. The other things I like about it is that it meters well, and is reasonably clean.
When my wife got her Glock 17, I loaded some Hornady HAP 125 grain with Power Pistol. I let her shoot a few mags of commercial ammo with the same weight bullet, then had her try to hand loads. The first thing she said was how much less felt recoil there was. That was the same thing I noticed with the .40. I did not chrono the 9mm, just used the Hornady load info. I did chrono the .40 and it was up there with commercial loads.

I like Power Pistol a lot for the "high pressure" pistol cartridges. I load my 9mm with Power Pistol under a Montana Gold JHP. Using 6.5 gr gives me just under 1150 fps over the chronograph.

Only downside to Power Pistol is it's "bark". It's tends have more muzzle flash than some other powders.

I prefer to use a powder that fills the case. I get less speed variations and it's impossible to have a double charge as the case will overflow. Not so with Bullseye charges and a double charge of this powder can (and has) destroyed firearms.

I've used Bullseye for years, just because I got more "Bang for my Buck"
as far as the ammount used.

Like Deadshot2 says though, you have to be very careful about double loading.

I use an old Pacific powder thrower and I have two tumblers for it. One
for each of my pistols, 9mm and .38Spl.

Jack...

I still like bullseye, it's still affordable and available, also like reddot, unigue and bluedot. PM me if you need some data, or powder

I use Unique for 45s that are picky and need sum umph behind it.. Typically the 45 acp is the hardest to load for....I have found that alot of heavier all steel 45s preffer bullseye or unique because it burns faster. I use blue dot for magnums 357 and 44. And I use universal for the 9mm and 40sw....

Originally Posted by deadshot2

I prefer to use a powder that fills the case. I get less speed variations and it's impossible to have a double charge as the case will overflow. Not so with Bullseye charges and a double charge of this powder can (and has) destroyed firearms.

It has been 30+ years since I first reloaded and it is hard to think back clearly, but my memory is that someone told me to use Bullseye so I wouldn't double load, but that story must have gotten confused at some point. I can see how the fine grain is more likely to have a double charge.
I am never in a hurry when I reload; I always put powder in one case at a time and then press the bullet. And I never reload with any distractions. I let my daughter shoot some of my .38 special reloads and the number one thing is that they are safe to shoot.
I can remember being paranoid about double loading 30 years ago, mostly because I was loading .44 magnum shells and I had visions of loosing a hand!
Thanks for the suggestions. I have heard that different powders can make for better results when your talking the difference betwwen 9mm or .45 acp for example.

Originally Posted by chrislind2

It has been 30+ years since I first reloaded and it is hard to think back clearly, but my memory is that someone told me to use Bullseye so I wouldn't double load, but that story must have gotten confused at some point. I can see how the fine grain is more likely to have a double charge.

Having reloaded for going on 40 years now I've found that many "pistol reloaders" make a lot of decisions on what powder to use on the basis of "How many cartridges can I load with only one pound of powder?" If there is data showing a workable load using only 3 or 4 grains of powder, the'll jump on that one over what could be a better overall powder that needs 6 grains or so and fills a pistol case better.

Likewise for some who load rifle rounds but to a lesser extent. Because of the extra room in a rifle case they then can become "position sensitive" depending on the powder. You'll frequently run into those who, when they shoot, leave a huge cloud of dust or "fuzz" in front of their firing position. They've filled the void left in the case, because their selected powder doesn't even fill to 50%, with everything from "florist's foam", Cereal, or "Jacket Stuffing (dacron). All this to save a few $$$ over a long period of time. Yes, there are legit reasons for some of these practices but getting cheap on powder doesn't always make sense. IF they wanted to really save money, just buy larger lots, like 4# or 8# jugs.

I can remember conversations when I used to shoot a lot of trap. Some of the "skin-flints" used to brag about how far they had loaded down just to save money. Some would end up with rounds that barely pushed the wad out of the barrel and they'd land about 6 feet in front of them when they fired.

Wow, I never heard anything like that, but if it can be done it probably has been.
Seems to me that the powder isn't the biggest expense. I always thought that maybe making my own bullets would be the best way to cut reloading costs. Never even considered there could be a way to save on powder.
I almost always load in the middle if there is a range of data. Lately I have been moving toward the high end by a grain or two. Always take a few factory rounds with me to see if I'm anywhere near factory specs. But in the end for me a safe firing round is still number one and after that, accuracy. But just walking into the range and never buying their over priced ammo is a great feeling! The only reason I buy factory rounds is so I can use the brass after I fire it. I sometimes buy new brass too.

Originally Posted by chrislind2

Wow, I never heard anything like that, but if it can be done it probably has been.
Seems to me that the powder isn't the biggest expense. I always thought that maybe making my own bullets would be the best way to cut reloading costs. Never even considered there could be a way to save on powder.
I almost always load in the middle if there is a range of data. Lately I have been moving toward the high end by a grain or two. Always take a few factory rounds with me to see if I'm anywhere near factory specs. But in the end for me a safe firing round is still number one and after that, accuracy. But just walking into the range and never buying their over priced ammo is a great feeling! The only reason I buy factory rounds is so I can use the brass after I fire it. I sometimes buy new brass too.

IMO, shaving costs with powder is penny-wise and pound-foolish...literally. Other than free range pick-up brass, the powder is the least expensive component. Consider the following costs per thousand rounds of 9mm: Bullets=$60 for lead, $100 for jacketed, Primers=$30, Powder= <$20. If you want to save money in the long run, buy in case lot quantities for all your components.

Use the powder that gives the best results. For me, accuracy and clean-burning are the attributes I look for. For 9mm, I like WSF, W231, and Power Pistol. For .40S&W and 357Sig, I use Power Pistol exclusively, and for .45ACP, I use W231 and WST.

If you still want to pinch pennies with powder, then buy some Titegroup. Just make sure you use a Powder Cop or Lockout Die to help protect against a double charge...easy to do without noticing because the case volume these charges occupy is so small.

Bullseye is the most accurate powder for 9mm I've used so far. I also load .32acp and .38special with it.

I've never worried about double charges either, but I've also weighed the powder charge of every single round I've ever loaded (I don't trust the powder dispenser) and triple check all the cases after they're charged. It also takes me FOREVER to get a box of ammo loaded up too, but I have more time than money.

I finally spent the money for an expensive scale that feeds each load with the push of a button, but I have no reason to load super fast. I will stay with slow and safe. I push the button on the powder scale and by the time the next charge is ready I have one bullet seated, so my little assembly line works fine for me. I will decide what I want to shoot next time at the range and load that shell the weekend before I go. Recently I am getting ahead a little. Haven't been going to the range as much as I would like to. Still haven't bought any more powder, may make a trip to Cabelas this weekend and see what they have. Always walk out of there with more stuff than I should buy!

Haven't been going to the range as much as I would like to.

Does anyone really get to go to the range as much as they want to?

I've been trying to talk the wife into moving way out into the countryside where I could have a range in the back yard.

Originally Posted by deadshot2

Does anyone really get to go to the range as much as they want to?

I've been trying to talk the wife into moving way out into the countryside where I could have a range in the back yard.

One of my dreams! I bought a gun from a guy that said he steps off his back porch and has a target set up and shoots any time he wants. His back yard has a gully and makes a perfect back stop.
I used to have 2 or 3 good places to shoot and one went away and then another and now I have to drive so far that figuring time and money almost makes it not worth doing. My daughter hates shooting at the range, but she doesn't have the time to spend most of a Saturday driving to find a place to shoot. Every summer I say I'm going to search for a good place and always end up not doing it. Maybe next summer...

Originally Posted by chrislind2

I used to have 2 or 3 good places to shoot and one went away and then another and now I have to drive so far that figuring time and money almost makes it not worth doing. My daughter hates shooting at the range, but she doesn't have the time to spend most of a Saturday driving to find a place to shoot. Every summer I say I'm going to search for a good place and always end up not doing it. Maybe next summer...

That's why I just pay my annual membership and get a key for the gate. I get to shoot whenever I want for less than a 20 minute drive. It isn't perfect but at least I don't have to spend half a day driving and then end up shooting in the rain or having to wade through puddles. If I can't shoot from my back porch, a membership range, during member only hours is second best.